CEL - P1325 Camshaft adjustment bank 1

[Ahsai]

Nice. Please check figure 26 and its description here (but use Dreibond instead). The bead should be about 1mm and no thicker than 1.5mm.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair.htm

 

Just carefully scrape off the old sealant and clean the mating surfaces so they are free of oil. Then apply the Driebond and within 5 minute close the cover and torque down the bolts (10ftlb each and use an in-lb torque wrench and set it to 120 in-lb). Wait overnight and fill with oil the next day.

 

[Ahsai]

When I looked at your photo, something doesn't look right to me. I looked back at the previous posts and saw that some instructions were given for bank 1 while you are actually working on bank 2. I went back and corrected those instructions so the next guy will not be misled.

 

Your current cam positions is actually at the wrong TDC. The intake cam slot should point TOWARD the crank for bank 2 (and AWAY from the crank for bank 1). It's not ideal but it's not too bad with the cam lock tool in place. It doesn't matter now that you have the cover opened and the cams' ends supported by the cam locking tool. Would be nice if you can install the saddles to support the cams when it's not being work on until you're ready to apply sealant.

 

Anyways, I think you're ready to seal it back up after some cleaning. I would tighten those cam cover bolts for a few rounds (follow the tightening sequence). Then remove the cam lock tool and rotate the crank 360 to get to the correct TDC, then retighten all the cam cover bolts.

Edited July 26, 2017 by Ahsai

[Ahsai]

The sealant is indicated by a thick black line around all the areas that need sealant.

junk.pdf

[talkenrain]

Thanks, So I don't need to clean with any kind of strong solvent (permatex gasket remover or acetone)? This morning I pulled the cover again and with my fingernail removed all excess glue as well as the entire cover. I then went over all the glued surfaces with alcohol to get any oils off (pictures are after cleaning surfaces with alcohol). I can still feel some residue, Should I remove with something stronger or am i wasting time trying to get it perfectly clean?

 

I was wondering if I had the correct TDC. Looking at the picture, the intake is open on cylinder 5 and the exhaust is open on cylinder 6. The others don't appear to be making contact.

 

I need to get a new scavenge pump o-ring then it's all going back together (today I hope). 

 

I still need to deal with those broken exhaust bolts - I sprayed with Kroil yesterday, again last night and again this morning.

 

New motor mounts arrive tomorrow along with a serpentine belt and a few other maintains items, I hope to have it all back together and running Thursday, or Friday. Maybe the broken bolts will come out easy? I'll give it a try tomorrow. I don't want to do any banging around with the cam cover not secured so the broken bolts will have to wait...

Edited July 26, 2017 by talkenrain

[Ahsai]

"...the intake is open on cylinder 5 and the exhaust is open on cylinder 6..." <- Yup excellent observation and that's why I said they didn't look right to me.

 

From the pics the surfaces are not clean enough, not even close. They need to be like bare metal clean. Just use this gasket remover https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80645-Low-Gasket-Remover/dp/B0018PXX2I

It's not harsh and will make the cleaning a lot easier (than scrapping). You're not wasting your time. Patience is the key. The last thing you want is oil leak from the cover after you spend hours reinstall everything...

 

 

[talkenrain]

Ok, Thanks again. As I've said, I'm a rookie at all this so I really appreciate all the help, patience and encouragement. I'm not sure I would have tried this without your support so thanks again 

 

"This forum is the best!!!"

 

I'll see if I can find the gasket remover locally to speed up the process. 

[Ahsai]

I must admit I cringed at a few places (like when I saw the cams :) )

This is ideally not a job for a rookie but if one has some mechanical sense, be careful and can follow instructions, it should not be a problem.

 

I got the gasket remover from either autozone or O'Reilly.

[talkenrain]

I found it. I'll be cleaning for a while...

[Ahsai]

Just a few tips when you reinstall the cam cover. Make sure you use as little sealant as possible around holes #12 and #14. There are two very narrow curved grooves around them which can be clgged up by the excessive oozed out sealant. If those grooves are blocked, the green cam plugs will blow out when the engine is ON.

 

Also don't forget to apply just a little bit of engine oil on all the cam journals before you put the cam cover on.

 

 

[talkenrain]

Todays update.

Lots of cleaning and I think it's ready to go back together. I picked up an new o ring for the oil pump. Just doing final fitment before applying the glue... I hope the contact points  look clean enough. I've used the gasket cleaner on both sides at least 5 times so there is absolutely no residue and I just now rubbed down all contact points with alcohol.

[Ahsai]

That's what I call "clean" :)

[talkenrain]

Thanks, here are A few more pictures.

 

A little delay today so moving the finish line to Saturday or maybe Monday. Going to get a few supplies (including longer saddle bolts)...

[Schnell Gelb]

The nail-biting stage is the first run after fitting the new solenoid with Durametric connected. Good Luck there.

For others who are following, please note the Bank 1 and Bank 2 solenoids are not interchangeable.They are color coded to avoid confusion. You will see refernces to black, silver,grey, white. The critical issue is the color of the cap on top of the solenoid. If in doubt, order by Porsche part number.

I have found that oil may creep up the threads of some bolts and ooze onto the outside surface of the cam cover. Some have mentioned using thread sealer(not locker) under the head of the bolts to reduce this. Any excess sealer would be safely on the outside and easily removed with an Exacto blade.

Others may like to comment on the best choice of thread locker/sealer for the threads that penetrate the cylinder head.

For those missing Insite's wonderful photos here is an alternative - Nutrod !

http://www.nutrod.com/Nutrod/Pics/Pages/Install_Head_4-6.html

Edited July 27, 2017 by Schnell Gelb

[talkenrain]

Yes, I'm confident the ECU and connecting circuitry are all in good working order from all the tested done on the front side of this with the Durametic. I bench tested the solenoid (impedance and function) before installing and it work as expected. I checked for smoothness and function on the connection to the variocam hardware, it looked good also so I'll be very surprised if the original problem persists. I also took apart the old solenoid today. I was saving it for the end of this thread but it clearly was fried. Very cheaply made for something that cost so much...

[Schnell Gelb]

Wow, I have never seen a Post with a photo showing  the solenoid internally.That would be interesting.

[talkenrain]

Those pictures are come soon. I'm trying to take it apart as neatly as possible... Picking out the plastic back first.

 

Is there difference in bank 1 and bank 2 solenoid ? Do you know what the differences are?

[Schnell Gelb]

20 minutes ago, talkenrain said:

 

 

Is there difference in bank 1 and bank 2 solenoid ? Do you know what the differences are?

Different part numbers and different color coding.

Check for your particular year/model. For my 2001 Bxstr S they are here:

99660590200 and ....100

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=986-97-04&section=103-10

http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99660590200.htm?pn=996-605-902-00-OEM

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=996-605-902-00-

and don't forget to check the little heat shield

99610423301

Edited July 27, 2017 by Schnell Gelb

[talkenrain]

Update

The reason the cover was so easy to remove is the cam was 180 degrees from where it should have been. This caused the exhaust valve on cylinder 6 and intake valve on cylinder 5 to be open, creating pressure on the cam, transferring to the cover and aiding in breaking the seal to remove the cover. The bad news is there is now a problem getting the cover back on. The same pressure pushing on the cam is causing the cover to rock when trying to put it back in place.

 

After a few PMs with experts the solution we're going with is to oil up and installing the saddles to push the cams in there correct positions then rotating the engine to a position where there is no pressure on the valves on that side of the engine. The other TDC would be the ideal but this is where I have questions.

 

In order to get to the other TDC, both cams will have to move 180 degrees meaning at least half the lobes will have to travel though there highest pressure positions. Looking at the current position would it make more sense to just release the pressure on cylinder 5 intake and 6 exhaust? that would only require 90 degree change of the cams (180 of the crank). This accomplishes the same without un-needed rotation using the saddles (i'm not confident they are designed to allow the cam to actually move freely, I don't want to create anymore damage (if an at all) then necessary).

 

Saddles are in place with lots of oil where they come in contact with the cam, The cam hold down at the back end of the cams are in place, screws are engaged into cam but are free to turn. I turned crank slowly watching the tension on chains. it looks like its moving freely. I turned the crank about 180 degrees, everything seems to be moving together without resistance. No lobes are touching now.

 

Is this far enough or is there a reason to go al the way back to TDC? If i have to go to TDC, thats going to force cylinder 4 exhaust and cylinder 6 intake to go through there highest stress points. I don't want to do this unless there is good reason. I'm confident the timing has not changed as everything moved together and the intake cam is now pointing at 6 o'clock it was at 3 o'clock and the engine is at 180 from TDC, just where i'd expect.  If it's important to go to TDC I will keep going, I just want to understand why. 

 

Please advise, and thank again for all the help.

Edited July 28, 2017 by talkenrain

[Ahsai]

Excellent! I agree with your logic so I think you are ready to dry fit the cover again. Note it's normal for the cover to rock a bit (even at the correct TDC) because some of the cams could still be pressing on some of the lifters slightly.

[talkenrain]

Great, thanks. The saddles are back off and the good news is they didn't leave any marks on the cams. The really good news is the cover now dry fits nice and flat. I'll clean all the oil up and glue it together in the morning.

[Ahsai]

Looking good. The saddles are made of alumnum so they shouldn't leave any marks. You should have a few minutes after the sealant is applied so don't rush and make sure you don't miss any spots. If you miss a spot and install the cover, you will need to remove the cover, redo all the cleaning and reapply sealant. Not fun for sure.

 

Also 1mm bead is more than enough and pay special attention to the two places I mentioned before not to clog the oil passages. Btw, forgot to mention you should apply blue loctite 242 or 246 on all the reused bolts. Once the cover is installed, you can rotate the engine further to the correct TDC and make sure the exhaust cam slots are parallel with the cam cover. Good luck!

[Ahsai]

And must use an inlb torque wrench. Very critical.

[Schnell Gelb]

If you need help choosing a Torque wrench, we'll help. Many  of the common ones are too clumsy to use in this situation. You need a small one. I use a 1/4" square drive.You need a loud beep or a very positive click/break. Some are so feeble you don't notice and you damage the threads.

These small steel bolts in very expensive aluminum parts are ...... If you think this job is bad, try helicoiling the cylinder head !

Torque wrenches targeted at the motor bike market are best imho.Like this maybe?

https://www.checkline.com/product/DTW

 

Edited July 28, 2017 by Schnell Gelb

[Ahsai]

Good points, Schnell. I use a CDI 1/4" drive. If you don't want to spend too much, this one should be good but test it on a test bolt first.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M12284X/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501255452&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=in+lb+torque+wrench&psc=1

 

[Schnell Gelb]

True shameful confession- I find the Harbor Freight 1/4" drive Torque wrench is just as accurate as an "Aircraft" dial-type one I treasure. I also have a Brownline to compare it with.The only problem is the feeble 'break' when the limit is reached.You have to really concentrate to feel when the limit is reached. When on Sale it is around $15 ! YEMV. I used the HF when checking shading systems installed on the exterior of high rise buildings. The HF bounce just the same as Snap-On if you drop them.....and nobody ever stole it.ymev

Edited July 28, 2017 by Schnell Gelb