CEL - P1325 Camshaft adjustment bank 1

[Ahsai]

Usually you remove the plastic cam plugs by using a pick, poking a hold in the middle of the plug so you can't reuse them.

[Schnell Gelb]

Duncan is correct but here is a little hack if ,like me you are paranoid about cam timing.

Be gentle removing the green plugs. A strong ,small screwdriver may help after you have punctured the center with the pick.

Save the old plugs. If you put a minimal dab of precious Drei Bond on both (clean !) sides of the puncture ,it will seal.

I use these to test run the engine after completion. Replace with new seals after the successful test run. This may  save the delay of running out of seals and delaying your work.

Before all this, make sure you have a good visual reference link on how to space the links between the camshaft marks.Many of the images I had bookmarked to share have disappeared from the image hosting sites we all used.

Edited July 23, 2017 by Schnell Gelb

[talkenrain]

Like almost anything new, my first time I proceed with caution and maybe get stumped by the most simple things. In this case the cam plugs threw me as i could not see well and was not sure how deep they where or how exactly they came out (plus I'd actually never seen one before and don't have replacements yet). The first one seemed to take for ever to get out. I began to think it was maybe glued in... Once I got the first one out the others where easy. I then understood how the cam holding tool engages into the ends of the cams and secured by a bolt into the head.

 

I've removed the 3 cam caps then rotated the engine to TDC with the cam key on the bank i'm working on facing out (away from the block), removed the engine ground wire and attached the cam holding tool at the back of the engine. I'm about to remove the oil pump. Maybe then it will become clearer how to secure the cams in position on the front of the engine.  Do I use the cam lock tool or somehow use the other cam holding tool? I understand I'll need to install the cam support tools once the cover is off. I'm just trying to get the cam secured at the ends before I crack the cover.

 

PS

I'm still working on finding Kroil locally.

Edited July 23, 2017 by talkenrain

[talkenrain]

Another question. Once i crack the cover. How do I perp the surface for resealing? Does the old sealant come off easy (like a gasket) or is it going to be a nightmare preparing to put back together?

Edited July 23, 2017 by talkenrain

[Schnell Gelb]

There is a metal washer inside the Green caps.

Use a SOFT scraper. I use a hard plastic. Acetone /alcohol will soften it. You need a perfect surface.Don't drop bits of old sealant .

Before you go furrther make sure you mark the Scavenge pump orientation.You need a replacement (giant size) "O" ring

Ask here about the stage at which you may want to remove the big chain tensioer. that bears on the paddle for the IMS to Cam chain.

Great progress and loved your electrical diagnostics !

Edited July 23, 2017 by Schnell Gelb

[talkenrain]

I was just about to remove the pump. Thanks. I mark its position. I completely distorted the first cam cap, trying to take care to remove small chunks as I didn't know what was behind it. No worries, I removed all 3 without dropping anything inside. I'm trying to keep everything clean, inside and out.

Edited July 23, 2017 by talkenrain

[Ahsai]

Good progress. Have you read these steps in details? http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair.htm

 

It's important to follow these steps (where applicable to your solenoid replacement).

 

The stock black sealant will be a nightmare to clean up. Just be patient with a plastic razor and use the permatex gasket remover to help. That thing works like a charm.

Edited July 24, 2017 by Ahsai

[talkenrain]

Thanks, Yes, I've been reading all articles referenced over and over. Some have a bit of conflicting messages but i think it's because some refer to bank 1 while others refer to bank 2. So now I have a few questions...

 

1) Is it necessary to remove the tensioner and the spark plug tubes before cracking the cover? this article says to remove both but pelican doesn't say anything about either.

2) Do I need to secure the cam at the front of the engine using my cam lock tool (see tool reference photo above)? Again, pelican instructions don't say anything about it and in there illustration it looks like both cams are secured by the head (near the front of the engine, between the chains). I've included pelicans picture.

[talkenrain]

Progress update.

Not much, Air pressure to clean all dust and dirt, cam hold down tool in place. All bolts loosened..

 

I'm wondering if this tool would work to remove those twisted off exhaust manifold bolts???

 

Oh, and look with I finally arrived today...

 

Edited July 25, 2017 by talkenrain

[Schnell Gelb]

42 minutes ago, talkenrain said:

Thanks, Yes, I've been reading all articles referenced over and over. Some have a bit of conflicting messages but i think it's because some refer to bank 1 while others refer to bank 2. So now I have a few questions...

 

1) Is it necessary to remove the tensioner and the spark plug tubes before cracking the cover? this article says to remove both but pelican doesn't say anything about either.

I did it the way the linked article instructs. Some ppl have trouble removing the tubes so may leave them in the cam cover? Impossible if the engine is in place in a Boxster I would think.Tubes may be cracked/old anyway. TheRennsportKC tube extraction system(transom plug) is ineffective sometimes.Use the long bolt+washer system instead.Even with that system you may need prybars !

If you leave the Tensioner for the IMS to Ex cam chain in place it will exert awful force on the cam when the cover is removed imho.

2) Do I need to secure the cam at the front of the engine using my cam lock tool (see tool reference photo above)? Again, pelican instructions don't say anything about it and in there illustration it looks like both cams are secured by the head (near the front of the engine, between the chains). I've included pelicans picture.

Yes, secure both cams . Once you get the cam cover off you can fit the 2 saddles from the Baum kit.

I am not an expert but I have done this job with the engine in the car and on the engine stand.

 

Edited July 26, 2017 by Schnell Gelb

[Schnell Gelb]

The link you gave has one blurred photo of the notch at the end of the Inlet Cam of Bank 1. It is very important because it shows the controversial "2.45" position not the 3.00 position of the notch . This is for TDC Cyl 1 ,Bank 1.That is also what the FSM shows in a diagram.

See the 2nd photo here:

http://www.rennsportkc.com/anatomy-of-an-m96-engine-rennsport-kansas-city/

Edited July 26, 2017 by Schnell Gelb

[Schnell Gelb]

Broken Bolt

See Post 11 here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/994577-welding-on-the-car-engine-disconnecting-the-battery-only-step-needed.html

and

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/989630-exhaust-bolt-broken-in-head-don-t-panic-get-this-simple-drill-guide.html

Stainless steel stud kits are available inexpensively on EBay. No more bolts !

[Ahsai]

I agree the bank 2 tensioner (below the a/c compressor) should be removed.

 

[Schnell Gelb]

If you have any doubts about the Lifters 'ticking' , now is the time to remove/check/replace and consider trying to measure for wear in the bores of the lifter carrier.Yes I am paranoid because this is a very time consuming job to do - twice or 3 times ! Lifters have dropped in price now that generic replacements have been identified.

Edited July 26, 2017 by Schnell Gelb

[talkenrain]

Ok, I will remove bank 2 tensioner before I proceeding. Please confirm my intake cam on bank 2 is in the correct position. It looks like mine is at the "3.00" or "3.15" position. Is this correct? What does this mean if it's off a bit?

 

The only known issue with this engine is the bank 2 VarioCam solenoid that I'm trying to replace. There are no other issues.

[Schnell Gelb]

All my comments relate to Bank 1 on the M96 Boxster engine.

The 3 o'clock descriptors relate to the hour hand of an imaginary clock face when facing the notched end of the inlet cam.

[talkenrain]

The title of this thread is somewhat misleading as the error message reported was bank 1 but it's incorrect. The problem is actually the bank 2 VarioCam solenoid. This is a 996 but I'm not sure that matters much. I just want to be sure I've got things in the correct position before I open the cover.  I'm with you on the hour hand position, I just got concerned when you brought up a 2.45 position as mine was clearly at 3 or maybe even 3.15 position. So just to be clear, in every instance, I'm only talking about (and all my pictures have been of) bank 2.

 

So is my cam in the correct position? Am I safe to proceed?

[Ahsai]

As long as it's pointing TOWARD the crank (it should point away from the crank if you were working on bank 1), I don't think it matters much if it's off a bit (2:45 vs 3).

 

Just curious is there enough space to fit the timing tool?

 

Also suggest the title should be changed to bank 2 for clarity. Maybe the MODs can help if you can't change it?

Edited July 26, 2017 by Ahsai

[talkenrain]

There is not a lot of room between the scavenge pump and chassis (assuming you adjust timing from the front of the engine)... What exactly does the timing tool look like? Is it in my kit?

 

The spark plug tubes are now removed, as well as the scavenge pump and O-ring along with all the cam cover bolts. The oil pressure sensor is disconnected and the cap to the solenoid is removed. I think It's ready to come off...

 

Here is where I'm going to sound stupid.... Going back to the tensioner. The link i've been reading talked about bank 1 cam tensioner needing to be removed but in this thread an IMS tensioner was mentioned? Now I'm confused. If I need to remove a tensioner, where exactly is it? and how do I remove it (what tool is needed)?

Edited July 26, 2017 by talkenrain

[Schnell Gelb]

First make sure you got all the bolts from the cam cover. Some are rather concealed.It may be hard to dislodge the cover. Find the pry points and be very careful not to break off a tab on the edge of the cam cover.

Bank 2 Tensioner for the IMS to Ex Cam chain is under the a/c compressor.It acts on a huge 'paddle' to tension the long chain

Do not confuse this(like Pelican do) with the Variocam actuator -that they also call a tensioner. That Variocam unit sits between the 2 cams .The real Tensioner is under the a/c compressor. That is why we never call the Variocam actuator a tensioner.The short cam to cam chain is only for transmitting motion from the exh cam sprocket to the Inlet cam.This is the one with the colored(sometimes) links that has the tricky spacing between divots on the sprockets of the Exh and Inlet cams.

 

[Schnell Gelb]

Timing tool.

With the engine in place you can't use the big timing tool.Pity because it works great out of the car !

We can tell you how to time the cams to the engine at TDC when you are ready. You lock the crankshaft at TDC for cyl 1 or 4 (depending on the Bank you are working on), hold down both cams with the saddles and turn the cams using a 22m wrench on the camshaft - very very carefully. If you are very careful in allocating the cams little or no adjustment will be necessary.I use assembly lube on the saddles.

Edited July 26, 2017 by Schnell Gelb

[talkenrain]

I'm done for today but i'm pretty sure I've removed all the bolts (last picture showed 2 still in the cover). My count is 23 bolts total (not counting the scavenge pump bolts). I'll check again in the morning to see if I've missed any. I will take care using the pry points, thanks.

 

Can you provide a picture to illustrate the tensioner exact location and how to access it? Also, what tool is needed to remove it?

 

Will I need to re-time the cams if nothing is moved? again, I'm only replacing the bank 2 VarioCam solenoid.

 

Referring back to my latest pictures (from today). Besides the tensioner, is there anything else needed before removing the cover? Any lock or hold down for the cam at the front of the engine? Does the "cam hold down tool" at the rear of the engine look it's installed correctly? I just want to be sure before pulling the cover.

 

Thanks everyone for all your help and advice. 

[Schnell Gelb]

29 minutes ago, talkenrain said:

I'm done for today but i'm pretty sure I've removed all the bolts (last picture showed 2 still in the cover). My count is 23 bolts total (not counting the scavenge pump bolts). I'll check again in the morning to see if I've missed any. I will take care using the pry points, thanks.

Good , you got them all.

 

Can you provide a picture to illustrate the tensioner exact location and how to access it? Also, what tool is needed to remove it?

Officially a 32 mm socket. But I found an SAE 1-1/4 fits better. Odd.

The Bank 2 tensioner is under the a/c compressor. You have to move the compressor out of the way Do not detach the refrigerant hoses.

But this may not be needed....

 

Will I need to re-time the cams if nothing is moved? again, I'm only replacing the bank 2 VarioCam solenoid.

The solenoid comes off without disturbing the cam, sprocket, tensioner or chains. Just 2 little screws at the base of the World's most expensive solenoid iirc. Oddball size screws and easy to drop !

First You need to remove the Solenoid seal(2 internal hex/Allen head bolts) from the cam cover to get it off ..

So you are sure the fault is just the solenoid? What test did you perform to conclude this ?

On the bench you can test the solenoid by applying 9v and watch/feel the plunger jump.

 

Referring back to my latest pictures (from today). Besides the tensioner, is there anything else needed before removing the cover? Any lock or hold down for the cam at the front of the engine? Does the "cam hold down tool" at the rear of the engine look it's installed correctly? I just want to be sure before pulling the cover.

The Lock tool should engage in & hold down both cams and be bolted to the head through the adjacent threaded hole.Maybe you won't need to bother with saddles if you  just R& R the solenoid.But I would use them !

 

Thanks everyone for all your help and advice. 

 

[Ahsai]

Sanity check. Is the slot of the exhaust cam end on the non scavenge pump side vertical? Be very careful before you remove the cam cover so you won't disturb timing.

 

To remove the a/c compressor, there's a third bolt at the back that is very hard to get to. You need to use a long wobble extension (or a flex socket) through the opening between the intake manifold #cyl4&5 (after removing the engine comparment temp sensor sitting there). It will help if you remove the throttle body. Use an inspection mirror to check that bolt first so you can feel where it is. This third bolt slides up and you can slide out the compressor. The bolt is captured by a refridgerant line so it can't be removed from the compressor.

[talkenrain]

I can't see the position of the exhaust cam with the hold down tool in place but no matter because after my last entry I went back to the garage, I notice oil dripping from the cover. As I wiped I noticed the cover was already loose. no pry points needed, it was already loose. I carefully removed the cover without touching any internal components. I couldn't wait so I snapped a few pictures, removed the old solenoid snapped a few more pictures, and installed the new one (very easy). I first tried to attach the saddles, thats when I discovered the kit did not come with bolts long enough to reach the head and the normal bolts are too short. No matter as the solenoid was replaced in the amount of time it would have taken to attach the saddles. I replaced the cover just to keep things clean and in place. I was surprised how clean the contact surfaces are between the head and cover, almost as if there was no sealant used before. Is this normal? I expected a tuff pry job followed by a messy cleanup in preparation for reassembly but it's remarkably clean.

 

My questions follow,

 

1) Now that the repair is done, how do I prep the head and cover for sealing (Remember, I'm a technologist, I've never done anything like this before so I need a step by step). I purchased a tube of Drei Bond Sealant. What is the correct way to clean the surface? prep and reattach?

 

2) Do you know the correct torque spec for the cover bolts?

 

3) How long should I wait before I can replace Oil?