CEL - P1325 Camshaft adjustment bank 1

[Ahsai]

Looking good. Yes, the muffler bracket and the header will have to be removed. Also, you may want to clean the cam cover and area as much as you can before cracking it open to avoid any dirt/debris getting into the cams, lifters, etc. Cleanliness is paramount.

[talkenrain]

Ok, I will make sure the area is very clean before cracking the cam cover. I was hoping I was finished with the tuff bolts but I guess  have a ways to go... Any advice for removing the rusty ones? I've been using silicon spray. Is a impact wrench a good idea or bad? 

[talkenrain]

Also, can you give me a list of gaskets I'll need to replace?

[Ahsai]

Part #20x1

#26, 27, 28, 29, all x 3

 

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=103-00

 

Re the rusted bolts or head bolts, I recommend soaking them in Kroil and use impact gun on them if possible.

Edited July 3, 2017 by Ahsai

[talkenrain]

Just a quick update. The good news is the main part arrived today. The bad news is, the rest of the parts are still in route so i'm on hold for a few more days. 

[talkenrain]

Update

The tools finally showed up today. Now that I think i have everything I need, I'm looking forward to making some real progress in the next few days.

[Ahsai]

Nice. BTW, you may want to ohm out and bench test your new solenoid to make sure it works before installing it due to all the labor involved.

[talkenrain]

Thanks, I will check the solenoid for the right impedance  and also connect it to a 12v supply to make sure it works smoothly.

 

Now for some rookie questions:

While removing the exhaust manifold i snapped the head off 2 bolts. What's the best way to remove them now? Plyers?

 

I know I should replace all 6 exhaust manifold bolts, Do I need to replace the gasket? What about the muffler bracket bolts? Replace them also? What about the gasket and 3 bolts where the header connects the exhaust system? Replace all? 

 

How do I get to the top bolts that hold the muffler bracket to the engine head? Loosen the motor mount? When lowering, how far can the engine come down without stressing other components?

 

Can I lower the engine by loosening the 13mm nut on the bottom of the motor mount?

 

 

Edited July 12, 2017 by talkenrain

[dporto]

You can lower the engine by loosening the motor mount nuts. You'll only get about an inch of drop that way though...Take the nuts all the way off - make sure you support the engine with a jack before you remove them - the engine weighs close to 500 lbs...it'll drop really fast if not supported! You may have some luck on those broken bolts with "ez-out" type removers (the ones for the ouside) - if not there are several "drill out" kits available that will keep you from damaging the block while trying to drill/remove them. Good luck

[talkenrain]

Thanks!

 

I'm a little worried about the twisted off bold heads. I sprayed them heavily with "Blaster" (penetrating oil recommended by the local parts supplier) then vice grips but no luck. I'll give it a few more treatments and wait till tomorrow to give it another try. I checked out the new solenoid. It measured good at 13.7 ohms. Connected it to a 12volt supply in it's a very strong about 0.2" outward movement when energized. It does not retract on its own but can we push back in very easily.

 

i'm having a real problem getting to the top muffler bracket bolts off. I was hoping lowering the engine would help but the nut to separate the motor mount from the engine mount rail is pretty rusted and  course I don't have a deep 18mm socket. Another trip to the hardware store for that and hopefully I'll get the nut off without damage to the motor mount. Hopefully the lowering will make the difference needed and speed up my progress.

[Ahsai]

I'll try to answer the other questions here:

 

"I know I should replace all 6 exhaust manifold bolts, Do I need to replace the gasket? What about the muffler bracket bolts? Replace them also? What about the gasket and 3 bolts where the header connects the exhaust system? Replace all?"

 

Yes, replace all those you mentioned above. I also use anti-seize on the header bolts when reinstalled.

 

"How do I get to the top bolts that hold the muffler bracket to the engine head?"

 

I've never done it insitu so I'm not sure. I imagine you can use a 3/8" drive flex head ratchet with a shallow socket.

 

When lowering the engine, pay attention to the O2 sensor wires and coolant hoses to make sure they are not stressed.

[Ahsai]

I like Kroil, much better than PB. The service manual recommends using a flex socket wrench on the top muffler bracket bolts.

[talkenrain]

Thanks again,

I went to the local dealer this morning. New bolts and gaskets are now all in hand. I have the motor supported well and will keep a watchful eye for all  cables and hoses.

 

I just need to get a deep 18mm 6point socket to remove the motor mount nut and hopefully I can make better progress. Should I remove both sides or just the side I'm working on? Also, the engine mount rail seems to twist a lot when trying to remove the motor mount nut. Should I be concerned or is that normal? (sprayed again with "Blast" and wire brushed to clean rust as much as possible). I'll get some Kroll While i'm out...

 

Would heat help get the remainder of those exhaust manifold bolds out? Should I try an easy out first or continue with vice grips? Worst case is to weld a nut onto the remaining stud (have to rent a welder I guess)... Any advice and direction is very much appreciated. 

[Ahsai]

Both sides and the twist is normal. You may want to try a stud remover like this https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Select-29895-Stud-Extractor/dp/B000XSCDEA/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1499893903&sr=8-11&keywords=broken+stud+extractor

 

[talkenrain]

Ok, I'll remove both sides. I'll need every inch I can get to reach those upper bolts.

 

I'll first try to find a stud remover like the one you referenced locally. If not, back to amazon...

 

Thanks...

[talkenrain]

Thanks Ahsai,

I was very concerned about the twisting but they both finally came off. I was able to lower the engine a little over an inch, enough to get the muffler bracket off. Now I should be able to make some real progress. I ordered the stud remover as I could not find anything like it locally. I also looked for Kroil penetrating oil but could not find it localy so a few more sprays of the oil I have and maybe a few more toys with vice grips (being carful to leave as much plot sticking out the head as possible)... 

 

Moving on, how low do I need to drain the engine oil before cracking the cam cover? also, I know I need to get the engine locked at TDC but what do I need to do for the cam before removing the cam cover?

 

[Ahsai]

You need to drain out all the engine oil. You can just follow the Pelican instruction I posted in one of the posts on page 2. The alignment tool is the silver one on the bottom left in your tool box.

[Schnell Gelb]

1.Kroil - to find it search for Kano Labs : http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html

Yes it is expensive but when you really need to avoid a broken bolt it is worth every penny.And if the bolt/stud breaks after using Kroil correctly(patience! and repetition), you are consoled by knowing there is nothing better - not even the home-brew transfluid+acetone concoctions.

2. To prevent the problem in future -fit a stainless steel stud kit .Yes studs, not bolts. Peculiarly ,Porsche failed to use the full depth of the threaded holes with their rust-prone bolts. Do some careful measuring,thread chasing and order the shortest stud that will work but still give full engagement of all the threads in the cylinder head. Use very high temp Loctite(2422 is better than 246) on the threads in the cylinder head and  Wicking 290 on the nuts. I found the kit on Ebay.The studs have a small internal hex to drive them.

And remember the chain tensioner chamber retains about 1 pint of oil - big mess if you remove it after you've drained  "all" the oil :-).

Keep us posted !

[talkenrain]

I don't mind paying the price. I just didn't see it at my local automotive stores I frequent. After a little searching I found a place that sells it but they are closed on the weekend. I have one other place to try later today (fingers crossed).

 

Thanks for the tip on the pint of oil, I'll be looking for it when I finally crack the cover. My biggest issue is time. Since I can't get right to it, I decided i'm going to change motor mounts and replace the serpentine belt along with a few other maintenance items. Sorry the progress has been slow. life keep getting in my way...

 

So maybe I'm paranoid but I have this vision of removing the cam cover screws and everything falls out of place and I'm left holding a cam in my oily hand. That shouldn't happen, right?

Ok, Oil drained, Ignition coils removed, a little dirt clean up and I think i'm ready to crack the cover.

Edited July 15, 2017 by talkenrain

[JFP in PA]

When the cam cover is removed, the chains will be holding it on one end, and the cam retaining plates (top right in your kit in plastic bags) will be holding the other end.  You install them first by removing the green rubber plugs at the end of the cam cover, and then remove the cover itself.  Once the cover is off, you can install the silver cam saddles from your kit as extra insurance.

[Schnell Gelb]

" So maybe I'm paranoid but I have this vision of removing the cam cover screws and everything falls out of place and I'm left holding a cam in my oily hand. That shouldn't happen, right? "

No, it is worse than that !

You must follow the correct procedure for TDC.Make sure you read the full InstructionsThat will minimize the risks.

You must use the cam hold-down tools.Otherwise you can snap a camshaft.

There is one tool that holds the ends of the 2 cams while the cam cover is still attached.. Once you have the cover off you can add the others.

There are lots of photos of this procedure in previous discussions.

I see JFP posted at the same time. Follow his suggestions , not mine.

Edited July 15, 2017 by Schnell Gelb

[Ahsai]

I'll repeat here again in case you missed it. Please refer to the Pelican steps. If you use the cams hold down tools that John mentioned, they will work buy they don't index the cams so you need to make sure you're at the right TDC before opening the cam cover.

 

At the right TDC, the notch at the end of the intake cam of bank 2 above the scavenge pump should point TOWARD the crankshaft (should point away if you were working on bank 1). This is critical because the cams will have the least stress on them (from the valve springs) only in this position.

Edited July 26, 2017 by Ahsai

[talkenrain]

Ok thanks. I think I understand. I plan to crack it open Sunday. I just finished cleaning everything up a second time to make sure I keep everything clean and tidy I'm not sure how i'm going to see the intake cam position. With the engine still in the car it's looks almost impossible to see (maybe I can use my phone camera). I'll take plenty of pictures and am sure I'll have questions.

 

Maybe I should have asked earlier but should I consider replacing the cam tensioner pads while I'm in there? Looking back at my original videos, would worn pads be the reason one back is at or almost at the max 7 degree spec? If the pads will bring this back into spec, maybe I should wait till I have replacement pads in hand? or is the something I can adjust out?

[Ahsai]

Yes, the cam deviations are likely due to worn variocam pads. Changing the cam pads is significantly more work as you need to remove the variocam actuator and time the engine afterwards. Won't be fun doing those in situ.

Edited July 23, 2017 by Ahsai

[talkenrain]

Oh geez, my luck. Ok, then I'll open her up tomorrow. I'm hoping this goes pretty quick and without problems. One last question, can I reuse the came end plugs?

 

Thanks !!!