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Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

As the title suggests, I'm changing out the struts and shocks on my '99 C4. I'm using Bilstein B8 sports with H&R lowering springs. The rears went very smoothly at about an hour and a half to two hours for the first one and around an hour for the second. The fronts are a little more complicated as I had to drop the coffin and control arms, the brake calipers etc., in addition to removing the axle nuts. While this was certainly more time consuming, it's all fairly straight forward. The struts are out. Now the problems:

1) I can't remove either of the top nuts so as to remove the top mounts. The Torx sockets at the top of the rods stripped out almost immediately...I'm thinking the only way is to drill the shaft/rod out of the nut. I'm certainly open to suggestions.

 

2) I can't get the through bolt out of the wheel carrier (the one that holds the strut in the wheel carrier) - these seem like they should come right out with a drift, but no luck. It seems like there may be very fine grit that's been packed in there over the years. My gut says just keep working on them and they'll loosen up eventually...I'm just wondering whether I'm missing something?...

Edited by dporto
Posted

Hi Loren,

                  Thanks for the reply. Yes! I actually used the DIY for my procedure (even though it's not on a C4...quite a bit of trial and error - with an emphasis on the error- for me :eek: ) . I'm basically up to the point where I'd start installing the new struts - except I'm at a bit of a sticking point, as I can get the old ones off yet (They're out of the wheel wells, but still hanging on by a couple bolts).Also, I can seem to source a set of new Strut to Wheel carrier bolts (M12 1.5 x 85) should I need to cut them in order to remove... Any ideas? Thanks in advance :cheers:

Posted

I got the first one (passenger side) out of the wheel carrier today...Wow - 3 days of soaking with PB's and beating on it with a hammer and a drift...I had to cut the top nut off in order to get the strut out of the top mount (which btw was shot).

Posted

Now that I've gotten one of the front struts out and am working on the other, next question... Upon pulling the wheel carrier off the end of the axle, I noticed a little play in the wheel bearings. There isn't a lot of play, but it is noticeable (maybe 1/16" ?). This wasn't noticeable with the wheels on, but once they were off and the hub was exposed it feels a little loose/wobbly. I figure that now's the time to replace them as I don't want take this all apart again. I've already ordered the bearings and they should arrive this week. My plan is to use a screw type bearing extractor as I don't have a press readily available. My question is this: Using the screw type bearing extractor, would it be easier if the wheel carrier was back in it's installed position in the car (mounted on the strut) or loose/on the bench? It seems to me that I should mount everything back up and then extract/install the new bearings - I just want to check with those who've done it.

Posted

Just a 5" vise on the bench - should be able to old it, but the carrier does have a unusual shape. It may be better off if it's "captured"/held by the rest of the suspension components. Thanks again for your help/suggestions!

Posted

A tool like a Dremel is good for this stuff, as with a small diameter cutting wheel it is easy to slice through a nut.  Nut splitters are also useful. 

Posted

The nut is off, the bolt is frozen/stuck in the wheel carrier - it won't even turn, which is worse than the other one which I was able to (finally) remove. I did have to cut the top nut off the strut in order to remove the top-mount. I suspect I'll have to do the same with this one, but I'm not even thinking about that yet. :)

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