About to do my chain pads - engine in or out?

[Ahsai]

Not much eye balling there, crank is locked with a pin, and camshaft locking tool would be used as a "lever" to rotate the cam and set it's groove parralel to head surface. Simillar to what the P-Tool 9612 does but lets call it home brew version.

 

And btw. that timing kit Ashai mentioned does not include the 9599 Auxiliary chain tensioner. Tool required to pretension the IMS to Cam chain before setting the timing. Any input on using stock tensioner primed with heavy oil for that purpose?

Ok, I see what you're trying to do now. At first I thought you also plan to replace the timing chain paddles. I was also confused when you said you wanted to put the sprocket to where it was. I interpreted that as exactly where it was. What you really meant is let the sprocket fall wherever it will be when crank is lock at TDC cyl #1 and exhaust is locked by the cam tool. No eyeballing. Of course how close you can get will depend on what you use to add tension to the timing chain. All I know is that rotating the crank in the reverse direction is not recommended.

[Youri Ko]

Bank 1 is done, bank to to go.

What I've done in the end, instead of rocking the crank back and forth, I kept it locked at TDC, Tensioner all the way in, sprocket wheel loose, I threaded two 6x40mm (head cover) bolts into two of four holes on the exhaust cam wheel, and then used a big flat screwdriver as a lever to fine tune it's angle to the head surface, still eye balling but hey, I got good eyes :) :) Sprocket came basically to the same position where I had marks put before removing.

 

As you can see in the picture, I dont think I will regret changing those pads.

[Youri Ko]

Two more questions I got.

 

1. Do I need to use thread lock (loctite) on 4 sprocket wheel's bolts? Manual does not say so and calls only for 10lbs of torque on those. But out of simple logic I feel like loctiting those - what if wheel slips?!

 

2. About to replace the IMS bearing with the engine on the ground. Should I loosen BOTH left and right tensioners to keep pressure even on the IMS? 

 

Thanks

[JFP in PA]

Two more questions I got.

 

1. Do I need to use thread lock (loctite) on 4 sprocket wheel's bolts? Manual does not say so and calls only for 10lbs of torque on those. But out of simple logic I feel like loctiting those - what if wheel slips?!

 

2. About to replace the IMS bearing with the engine on the ground. Should I loosen BOTH left and right tensioners to keep pressure even on the IMS? 

 

Thanks

 

Use the blue (medium strength) Loctite, not the red.

 

You need to follow the LN IMS retrofit procedures to the letter (no short cuts): http://lnengineering.com/files/IMSR-Instruction-Warranty.pdf   You will need to pull the two rear tensioners as described in step #7 before even attempting to pull the IMS flange cover.  The object of removing the two tensioners is to release the chain tension on the bearing before the cover is removed.  If this is not done properly, the shaft will jump to one side, making the bearing extraction and reinstallation impossible.

[Youri Ko]

Got it! He says to remove 1-3 Tensioner and IMS Tensioner, and in some case third tensioner, which I gather is hardly accessible when AC compressor is on. Which In my case is not a problem so I will remove 3 of them to even things out.

Edited March 25, 2016 by Youri Ko

[JFP in PA]

Got it! He says to remove 1-3 Tensioner and IMS Tensioner, and in some case third tensioner, which I gather is hardly accessible when AC compressor is on. Which In my case is not a problem so I will remove 3 of them to even things out.

 

Normally, the third tensioner is not a problem and does not have to come out, but every once in a while, after pulling the first two, the flange cover refuses to budge, and then the third tensioner has to come out.

[Youri Ko]

So I guess I just my first major road block.

 

To get the 4-6 cover out, the manifold HAS to go !!?? If so, those manifold bolts are going to snap for sure, tried one and snapped. That means, I need an engine stand, a crane to put it on there, and torches to heat those bolts first.

[Ahsai]

I assume you meamt the header bolts? Have you tried impact and Kroil?

[Youri Ko]

Yes, so, they all snapped, Next step, engine stand.

 

Helicoils or torch?

[JFP in PA]

Be careful using a torch around the alloy heads, you can permanently soften the alloy with too much heat.

[Youri Ko]

Got it, I'll try drilling and with left hand extractors

Edited March 27, 2016 by Youri Ko

[Youri Ko]

Question.

Are VarioCam solenoid M6 bolts, or camshaft cap bots are stretch bolts?

 

I had one of the solenoid bolts snap on me, I was using a torque wrench set to 7.5lbs. The bolt kept turning and turning, to finally snap. Replacing that one and probably two others. 

I have same "stretchy" feeling on one of cam caps. Made me wandering if all those are stretch bolts?

[JFP in PA]

The solenoid and cam caps are not, but the cam sprockets are and should not be reused.

[Ahsai]

And I hope you're using an inlb torque wrench.

[Youri Ko]

And I hope you're using an inlb torque wrench.

No, I dont :( Only had my 3/8 . I figured it was over torquing by approx 1 lb. But still, to snap, bolts have to be stretched I figure.

 

I order all new bolts for 4-6 side, but something tells me to remove the cover on 1-3 and redo/replace all bolts on the other side.

[Ahsai]

For 7-10 ftlb, an inlb torque wrench should be used. The ftlb ones are not accurate and consistent enough for such low torque application. In general one should avoid using the lowest and highest 10% of the range claimed.

[Youri Ko]

Totally agree, but sometimes, we use what we have  :rolleyes:

[Loren]

The smaller the bolt the easier to snap - trust me I have tried the shortcut and failed.

Get or borrow a inlb torque wrench.

[JFP in PA]

The smaller the bolt the easier to snap - trust me I have tried the shortcut and failed.

Get or borrow a inlb torque wrench.

 

+1.  I totally agree with Loren and Duncan; too many DIY projects go awry because of short cuts like this.  You are asking for trouble using a ft. lb. torque wrench for this, they simply are way too inaccurate at such low values. 

[Youri Ko]

Will buy it tonight, and will probably redo the other side.

 

So what's 7.5Lb in Inches? :P :P :P

Edited March 30, 2016 by Youri Ko

[Ahsai]

7.5 ftlb x 12in/ft = 90 inlb

[dporto]

^That's^ some crazy math! :thumbup:

[Youri Ko]

Small video of the "dry" start up

 

https://goo.gl/photos/oh7Ue9SYkSGQWnqp6

Edited April 5, 2016 by Youri Ko

[Ahsai]

Nice. The alternator and some sensors were not connected yet? Also, it's interesting you got MkII style cats. Are those original?

[Youri Ko]

Accessory belt was off, so no water, a/c, alternator. No airbox, no maf and O2 were unplugged too. New fuel pump definitely changed the way this car starts. Used to be a different story.

 

Just wanted to get that off my shoulders. Reinstalling the rest this week and will bleed the coolant once I can put the car outside.

 

MK2 cats? How diffrent are they? Wow, I learn new things everyday about this thing.