Strange Ignition Problem

[Long Islander]

When I turned my ignition key today, I heard a loud snap sound.  Now I can insert the key with a little bit of wiggling and get the car started, and also turn it off and remove the key with a bit of wiggling of the key. When I remove the key, I no longer hear the usual "clunk" sound that means the steering wheel is locked. In fact, the steering wheel is not locked.

 

What part(s) do I need to replace?

[Loren]

Exact model and year of your car please?

[Long Islander]

2001, C2 coupe, tiptronic

 

Exact model and year of your car please

[Loren]

There is a DIY for the ignition switch lock assembly here.

Once you upgrade to the newer style switch you will not likely have any further problems.

[Long Islander]

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/24-996-ignition-switch-replace-just-the-switch-with-pictures/%5D996

[Loren]

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/24-996-ignition-switch-replace-just-the-switch-with-pictures/%5D996

 

I do not think just the electrical switch will help him much - he needs a new lock and switch.

[Long Islander]

I was planning on buying the "ignition switch" appearing on the link below from Pelican parts:

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2014.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=POR&Context_make=&please_wait=N&LastVisited_input=&Previous_Section=&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=ignition+lock&I1.x=0&I1.y=0

 

Are you saying I need to buy the "steering lock assembly with ignition switch (without lock cylinder)" and then swap out my lock cylinder instead?

 

Pelican has the following DIY instructions for this:

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/86-ELEC-Replacing_Your_Ignition_Switch_Steering_Lock/86-ELEC-Replacing_Your_Ignition_Switch_Steering_Lock.htm

[wildbilly32]

Loren: I have read a lot on forums about the ignition switch problems, the electrical part. I do understand the difference between the electrical part and the entire locking mechanism. Above you mentioned "newer style switch". I have a 2005 996 C4S would this have been equipped with the newer style switch from the factory or should I continue to stress over possible future failure? Thanks and I appreciate your time in assisting with this forum.

[Loren]

Loren: I have read a lot on forums about the ignition switch problems, the electrical part. I do understand the difference between the electrical part and the entire locking mechanism. Above you mentioned "newer style switch". I have a 2005 996 C4S would this have been equipped with the newer style switch from the factory or should I continue to stress over possible future failure? Thanks and I appreciate your time in assisting with this forum.

 

The newer style switch came out in November 2003 - so yes your car should already have the newer design.

I have seen very few of those fail.

 

Like all cars ignition switches I think it best to minimize the amount of weight on you have on the key/key chain. A bunch of keys hanging on your key seems to add additional stress on both the lock and electrical part sometimes causing premature failures.

[wildbilly32]

Loren: Thanks. Only thing on the ring is the key and a Porsche FOB!

Edited March 11, 2016 by wildbilly32

[Long Islander]

Changing the ignition lock assembly seems to be at least a 4 hour job, and the part is around $250.  The dealer quoted me $1000 cost to do this, and it seems complicated enough that I don't want to  try doing it myself.  I spoke with an independent Porsche specialty shop and he said he's replaced dozens of ignition electrical switches (the $10-$30 part) and has never had to replace the ignition lock assembly afterward because this took care of the problem.  He thought my issue would be fixed with just the electrical switch. 

 

So, based on that, I ordered the Audi OEM version of the electrical switch (Porsche doesn't sell this anymore, but the Audi and Porsche parts are the same), and I'll replace it myself.  This is supposed to take less than an hour, so it's a low-risk gamble to save +/- $1000.

 

I'll keep you posted.

[Long Islander]

Problem solved!  I bought the Audi part (4A0-905-849B) to replace my original ignition switch (just the electrical part).  This is the correct part for my car because the original ignition switch was never replaced (I know that because I'm the original owner) and it fixed the problem.  While I wasn't having any electrical problems -- just a mechanical issue with getting the key in and out) the electrical switch was binding and making it difficult for the key to line up properly.  When I removed the old switch, it did not turn very smoothly, whereas the new one did.

 

This took me a few hours, but mainly because I couldn't get a flat head screwdriver into the spots I needed to release the electrical switch.  A word or wisdom -- you need a small flat head screwdriver that is less than 2.5 inches long.  Anything longer and the air duct prevents you from lining up the screw driver to turn the screw.  Once I got the short screw driver, it was very easy to remove the ignition switch and replace it.

 

There are also instructions for this on Pedro's Garage:

 

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Replace_Ignition_Switch.html

 

One more thing to note about the small screws is that they are exactly 180 degrees apart and face the same direction.  The bottom one you can see, but the top one is only visible if you have a mirror (which is useful to get your bearings).

Edited March 20, 2016 by Long Islander