05 CTT air strut removal question

[ciaka]

When removing the front struts, do I need to get any hardware that will be replaced when I do reinstall? For example, do I need to replace any hardware on the air Line which connects to the strut? Help really appreciated. Thank you.

Planning upper control arm replacement soon.

[ciaka]

Trying to find out if any of the related hardware is throw away after disconnecting lines from strut. Help will be much appreciated.

[ekstroemtj]

Please ask the guy here. He replaced his front strut.

Good luck

http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/901129-klunky-noise-from-front-wheel-2.html

[ciaka]

Thank you. After looking closer I see three different parts and I would like to find out if any of them have to be replaced if I remove the connector from the struts. The three parts are:

95535872002 - pressure valve for air strut

95535872200 - sealing ring for the valve

95535854100 - push on connector air tube

So if anyone can advise if these can be reused when servicing strut, that would be great. Thank you in advance.

[GrandeOak]

I replaced my upper control arms last week and did not replace any air line parts and everything functions perfectly after re-assembly.

 

I suppose you could replace the 3 bolts that hold each strut/shock to the frame and if you are replace the rubber strut mount you could replace the 4 bolts that hold the mounting bracket to the shock. I didn't replace any of these but did replace all hardware for the LCA, ball joints, tie-rods, end links, etc.

 

If you replace the rubber strut mounts (I did - one was in 3 pieces) you will want to replace the o-ring (PN N-910-956-01) between the shock and bracket on top of the shock that houses the shock mount. Removing the nut from the strut rod requires a specialized tool or air tools.

 

I assume you have seen the info from Arnott here and here.

I replaced the UCA as part of a project that included the LCA, tie-rods and end links, sway bar bushings and used your writeups extensively.  :thumbup:  :cheers:

I am happy to return the favor and provide tips or photos from my experience.

Edited July 12, 2016 by GrandeOak

[ciaka]

Excellent. Glad to see it was useful. As to parts, I think I will get the bushings and will replace the oranges too.

When you disconnected the air line, did you replace the plastic tube that is located in the valve, and the sealing ring on valve? Now thinking about it, one may not need to remove valve meaning sealing ring won't be touched, but the plastic tube - did that get swapped? Last thing I want is a leak which could burn out the compressor for shocks.

Hope my write up was accurate for you too.

[GrandeOak]

I did not replace the plastic tube or the sealing ring.

 

It's a pretty simple compression fitting and the tube seemed to be all one unit leading back to the compressor.

 

I recommend replacing the shock mounts while you have everything apart.

 

I have 118,000 miles on my 2005 CTT and the passenger side was in three pieces and drivers side was showing signs of wear.

 

Edited February 26, 2016 by GrandeOak

[ciaka]

Great to hear. That is what I think I will do. Will get the oem mounts and will keep the other parts.

May I ask how long it took you to do? Trying to estimate time frame I will book to do this. Thank you.

[GrandeOak]

[deleted]

Edited February 26, 2016 by GrandeOak

[GrandeOak]

Hard to single out the time to do just the UCA but it is definitely doable in less than a day. Including wheel liners, wiper removal, etc.

 

A few thoughts/ideas

1. I used TRW UCA  (which came with nuts for bolts and ball joint) .The originals I removed were also TRW
3. The hidden shock mounting bolts aren't that bad to remove
4. 
   
5. I removed the driver side wiper but not the entire wiper cowl
6. 
   
7. For re-installation I left one tricky mounting bolt in place on each side and put the socket on it to give it some weight. After bolting in the shock I raised it slowly with a jack until it just bumped the bolt and then gave the bolt a few turns, raised it more, turned the bolt then put in the other 2 bolts

Edited February 27, 2016 by GrandeOak

[GrandeOak]

Here are some pictures of removing the hidden bolts in case they help.

 

Hidden driver's (left) side shock bolt.

Hidden passenger side shock bolt.

Tricky passenger side shock bolt.

 

[GrandeOak]

To remove the ride height sensor press this push pin

 

Picture below shows the shock rod nut that requires a special tool or air wrench and the o-ring

 

[hahnmgh63]

Good pics and good info. I am also getting ready to do it all. TRW upper and lower arms but now with this info I've also ordered the upper shock mounts.

[ciaka]

Just completed my shocks recently.  Took pics for a DIY, so others can have easier time.  I would say difficulty wise, out of 10 (being hardest), this job is about a 3.  Very easy, the only thing you have to do is decide to do it and not be intimidated.  

 

Once I have everything finished up, I will put the DIY up for all.

Anyone know if this would affect your alignment (if bushing is bad and driving)?

 

Thanks for the above pics (helped greatly with locating bolts that are 'hidden').

[ekstroemtj]

 thank you. this is also a work which is waiting for me.

[ciaka]

I just posted a DIY for the front airshock mount bushing and upper control arm replacement.  Hope it helps out.

Thank you Mr. GrandeOak for stealing a couple of your pics - after I was all done, realized forgot to take those ones.

Have fun.  Not hard to do, I would say 3 or 4 out of 10 on hard scale (10 being hardest).

CLICKIE

[GrandeOak]

ciaka - another great DIY contribution. Glad my photos could be apart of it. 

 

Did you end up getting an alignment? One reason I did my uppers, lowers and tie rods together was so I only needed one $200+ alignment.