P2189 after serpentine belt change

[Ahsai]

Yes, the fuel trims should be zero for both short and long term ideally but under operation, the short + long should add up to be less than 10% or so for a healthy engine. Yours add up to 25+%, which is A LOT of fuel added.

 

The reason I asked for Durametric is because it shows fuel trims for idle (RKAT) and under load (FRA) so if you have a vacuum leak, you will see a high positive % for RKAT but not so much correction for FRA because under load, there's not much vacuum in the intake manifold so vacuum leak will not affect the engine much.

[JFP in PA]

I think I'm going to take that hose off again and tape the rest of it as it crackled anytime I moved it during removal.

 

I think it is way past time to stop trying to repair the hose and just replace it.  When they get that bad, they are past their sell by date.

[5thlilpiggy]

Yes, the fuel trims should be zero for both short and long term ideally but under operation, the short + long should add up to be less than 10% or so for a healthy engine. Yours add up to 25+%, which is A LOT of fuel added.

 

The reason I asked for Durametric is because it shows fuel trims for idle (RKAT) and under load (FRA) so if you have a vacuum leak, you will see a high positive % for RKAT but not so much correction for FRA because under load, there's not much vacuum in the intake manifold so vacuum leak will not affect the engine much.

Ok yeah, thats pretty much what that blurb about revving to 2500 alluded to.  Thanks!

Edited May 6, 2016 by 5thlilpiggy

[5thlilpiggy]

I think I'm going to take that hose off again and tape the rest of it as it crackled anytime I moved it during removal.

 

I think it is way past time to stop trying to repair the hose and just replace it.  When they get that bad, they are past their sell by date.

 

 

Yeah, youre right   :cheers:

That is #14 in the diagram. If #15 is also bad, how much of a PITA is that to replace? I assume you remove the wheel well cover?

Edited May 6, 2016 by 5thlilpiggy

[JFP in PA]

It varies by year and model, but going in through the wheel well us usually the easiest.  No special tools are required and the hose ends have pinch to release fittings on them, just be sure to lightly oil the seal rings inside the new hose ends before installing.

[5thlilpiggy]

Im almost too embarrassed to post this, but its a good PSA reminder...

 

Took the kid to school this morning, and when I got to the garage and put it in P, I got the "excuse me sir, there's a hole in the engine" idle jump to about 1500 rpms.

 

Pulled the intake and found the attached image (sorry for the ****ty pic...I was upset  :cursing: ).

 

Moral: Be careful when you put the intake back on or the water pump pulley will have a party with your PCV.

 

Thankfully, the MPLS dealer actually has that rubber T in stock.  

 

In order to get there though, I had to remedy the T.  Taped it up (Im becoming a huge fan of 3M super33+) and went for a short drive with live data going on the scanner.  All was well.  STFTs bouncing +/- in single digits with LTFTs at 0.

 

Got to the garage, put it in P and watched the readings for a couple min.  Got the same readings with LTFTs staying at 0.

 

Hoping to be at the end of this!

Edited May 6, 2016 by 5thlilpiggy

[5thlilpiggy]

Dealer closed before I could get in over the weekend.  No codes over that time with the taped T hose.

 

Got the replacement in today (made sure it was in its proper place under the intake) and went for a short drive with no codes.

 

Other than having to get a replacement for the plastic hose at some point, I think we are done here  :D

Edited May 9, 2016 by 5thlilpiggy