Diff and transmission oils

[wduk2005]

Hi.

Sorry for asking a question that seems to be answered over and over, I just get confused as some people say 1 thing and others say other things and all the technical codes I find confuse me even more. I'm a windscreen fitter so know cars but these are way too advanced for me !!!!

I'm in the UK and I've just bought my 2005 cayenne v6 it has 123k miles, I love it so much and hope to be spending a lot of time on here, I didn't notice on test drive but a slight whining noise that after hours of searching here I think is most likely the diff. I want to try changing all the transmission oils just to be on the safe side (and hope it helps) but I've never had a auto or 4 wheel drive or porsche and want to be 100 percent sure I'm getting the right stuff put in the right place !!!! I don't really want to use a porsche dealer due to costs and my mechanic is pretty good but I don't want anything slung in there so would rather buy the oils and filters and get him to change them. Can anyone tell me the ones that I need for each job and the amounts or even better any links to buy it in the uk

I've seen Mobil atf 3309 is one and I think I need 9 litres of it all in all....I think, is that what goes in everything ?

Any help is greatly appreciated, I wasn't planning on spending money less than a week after buying it.

[hahnmgh63]

For the front (1 litre) & rear (1.4 litre) diff's you will need 75w-90 synthetic Gear oil meeting GL-5 specs. For the transfer case (.85 litre) of ATF meeting Esso LT 71141 specs and for the tranny the Mobil 3309 will be just fine but you should also replace the pan filter and gasket. I used Redline D4 ATF as it meets both tranny and transfer case specs but if you use the Mobil 3309 don't use it for the transfer case as it is not a full synthetic and it only meets the Aisin/Toyota JWS 3309 spec.  For the transfer case you could go to an Audi/VW dealer and get a bottle of the transfer case fluid for a Q7 or Touareg as they use the same transfer case but are probably cheaper than a Porsche dealers price, price it from all 3 dealers and go with which ever is less. The tranny has a special fill procedure. The procedure says: Engine off, after replacing the pan & gasket (make sure the O-ring is around the neck of the filter and lubricated before pushing it into the valve body and bolting it on), fill the pan with fluid till it is full, then start the engine and start filling again (fluid from the pan gets sucked up by the tranny oil pump), when the pan is full (engine still running and fluid temp obviously increasing) you plug the fill hole off (should be slowly dripping as the temp of the fluid is increasing and expanding) at 40'C fluid temp.

With that said, how you measure the 40'C is going to be up to you. Many/most, that do a bit of work on their Cayenne's and/or have other (post '96) Porsches too use a software called Durametric that replicates many of Porsche's own PIWIS software. There are other aftermarket software tools out there but not as popular as Durametric. If you by chance have any VAG cars then the Rosstech Vagcom works great for this too. Some have even used a Infra red tool and just pointed it at the pan/fluid dripping then used this method. Others have also just filled and when the dripping fluid felt a bit warm then capped it off. I will say it is almost no problem being a little over full then being a little under full. Also, while it is warming up and you are still filling it you can put it in drive (obvioulsy parking brake on and foot on the brake, take no chances in it moving) for a few seconds, then reverse and repeat a couple of times (shop manual says to do this), helps the fluid heat and to get air out of the system.

Edited January 31, 2016 by hahnmgh63

[wduk2005]

Wow, thanks for the great answer, really helpful. I had seen that it was quiet a specific way to actually fill them. I know a friend has the vagcom stuff, and I've got an infra red thermometer and a cable one so looking good on the labour front.

Can I just check a couple of things is it only .14 litres of oil for the rear diff ?

And do you know how much the transmission holds, is it 8-9 litres ?

Thanks again

[GrandeOak]

I believe rear diff is 1.4 liters (@hahnmgh63 gave great info but typo'd a decimal).

 

If you change the trans filter you will need close to 9 liters of fluid. When i changed my valve body and filter, letting drip for a few days, I needed 9+ liters.

[Loren]

Per the factory service manual (change quantities):

 

Tiptronic transmission: Fill quantity: 8.5 litre

Rear differential: Filling capacity: 0.75 litre 

[wduk2005]

Thanks guys, oh yeah I recall reading it now, just a bit overwhelmed by the amount I've been reading, I'll get the oil ordered and changed and update on if it quietens the diff down hopefully next week.....now onto sorting the sunroof leak !!!

[hahnmgh63]

Per TSB 2/04 3965 Approved Oils - Final Drives and Transfer case, it says rear diff with non-locking diff is 1.4 litres, w/locking diff 1.6 litres.

[Loren]

Per TSB 2/04 3965 Approved Oils - Final Drives and Transfer case, it says rear diff with non-locking diff is 1.4 litres, w/locking diff 1.6 litres.

 

Those are for a "dry" fill after rebuild or new.

When changing the oil some will always be left behind. Just do not overfill.

[spooltime]

Just do not overfill.

 

Best to be patient and let the front and rear diffs, and the transfer case fully drain and then drip.  If you're not in a rush, let them drip for a minimum of 30 minutes and you'll know virtually all of the old fluid is out.  When the diffs and transfer case are topped up with new fluid to the bottom edge of the fill hole (i.e., it starts to drain out of the upper hole), you're good to go. Just be sure the vehicle is level while doing this.  No point in trying to measure precise fluid amounts.

[Lerymiza]

Porsche Cayenne 2005 S 4.5  FRONT DIFFERENTIAL SYMPTOMS (APRIL 29TH 2016 133,000 MILES)

 

Starting to give me symptoms on the front differential since about 2 months ago. 

At the beginning I thought it was the brake pads again since the first time I did the Brake service (rotors-pads-fluid) I did not use any padding besides the metal shims from the factory pads which were supposed to be an upgrade carbon ceramic type. Not recommended!!! since the truck its too heavy for such a hard composite to bite the disk and stick to it!!!

I went back to the basic pad I think semi-metallic which does stick to the disk way more than the ceramic ones.

 

side note: ceramic brake pads are for light vehicle not heavy ones like this SUV. :oops: DOUBLE THE WORK AND EXPENSIVE PARTS NOT GOOD RESULTS...

 

My symptoms are when slowing down to a stop. I do hear the front differential gears engaging and at the end right at the stop moment a snap sound coming from the teeth of the gears!!!!!!

It does not happen all the time but has become more and more frequent. I sounds like someone hit your car with a stone on a solid part of vehicle.

 

After reading all the comments from the contributors makes me want to get rid of my truck!!! It's a very nice ride but very heavy!!! :drive:

Thank you all for your contributions :notworthy:

My remedies for now before changing anything at this point will be to replace my fluids to get rid of metal parts and find out how bad the metal parts come out from the differential fluids at this time to make my mind about it a little better.

 

Lery