Idler Pully Replacement Problem

[1dmurrray]

I ran into a problem trying to replace the upper idler pulley on my 2001 996 C4. I removed the bolt that secures the upper pulley and the alternator, but I could not get the bolt to line up going back in. I did not release the alternator mount bushing before removing the bolt, so I can't rotate the alternator up to start the bolt. I tried loosening the bottom alternator bolt and prying/tapping the alternator up and down slightly to help with aligning the bolt, but it does not want to line up.

 

I was thinking of getting a scrap M10 stud that i could try to thread in to attempt to release the bushing. If anyone has any other ideas, please let me know. Thanks.

[Ahsai]

Spray some PB blaster on the bushing and use a large sockets of the right size on the BACK of that bushing bracket (toward the front of the car). Then insert a short M10 bolt to pull the bushing toward the front of the car to release it.

[1dmurrray]

Spray some PB blaster on the bushing and use a large sockets of the right size on the BACK of that bushing bracket (toward the front of the car). Then insert a short M10 bolt to pull the bushing toward the front of the car to release it.

Great idea for an improvised puller. I'll give it a try. I may also try inserting a short M10 from the back and then punching it forward from the front. Thanks.

[Ahsai]

 

Spray some PB blaster on the bushing and use a large sockets of the right size on the BACK of that bushing bracket (toward the front of the car). Then insert a short M10 bolt to pull the bushing toward the front of the car to release it.

Great idea for an improvised puller. I'll give it a try. I may also try inserting a short M10 from the back and then punching it forward from the front. Thanks.

 

 

The idea is from another forum member "swaff" and he said it works well. I've never tried that but it makes sense to me that it should work well.

Yes, inserting an M10 and punching it from the front may work too. Since the alternator is out, you have all the room in the world to attack it.

[1dmurrray]

 

 

Spray some PB blaster on the bushing and use a large sockets of the right size on the BACK of that bushing bracket (toward the front of the car). Then insert a short M10 bolt to pull the bushing toward the front of the car to release it.

Great idea for an improvised puller. I'll give it a try. I may also try inserting a short M10 from the back and then punching it forward from the front. Thanks.

 

 

The idea is from another forum member "swaff" and he said it works well. I've never tried that but it makes sense to me that it should work well.

Yes, inserting an M10 and punching it from the front may work too. Since the alternator is out, you have all the room in the world to attack it.

 

Unfortunately, the alternator is not out, so space is going to be an issue. 

[rsachek]

If the alternator was able to drop down that little bit to lose alignment with the bolt channel, it can be muscled back into place, believe me! Using a flashlight and with no bolt installed, you can look down the u-channel and see when the hole in the bushing comes back into alignment. Use some scraps of wood or some rags when prying to avoid marring.

 

Not sure what you mean about using a scrap bolt or stud to loosen the bushing?? If you're able to thread something into the bushing to tap it loose, why can't you thread the proper pulley bolt back in? 

Edited December 23, 2015 by rsachek

[1dmurrray]

If the alternator was able to drop down that little bit to lose alignment with the bolt channel, it can be muscled back into place, believe me! Using a flashlight and with no bolt installed, you can look down the u-channel and see when the hole in the bushing comes back into alignment. Use some scraps of wood or some rags when prying to avoid marring.

 

Not sure what you mean about using a scrap bolt or stud to loosen the bushing?? If you're able to thread something into the bushing to tap it loose, why can't you thread the proper pulley bolt back in? 

I tried muscling up and down, but couldn't get it to line up. I figured I could thread in a short stud if I didn't have to line it up through the front bracket, but I am going to try threading a short bolt through from the backside first. Once the bolt/stud is through, I can use a drift to punch the bushing back. That's the plan anyway. I'm going to work on it tomorrow.

 

Update: Job is done. Not enough room to thread from the back without removing coolant hose and oil tube. I ended up using the drift punch as an alignment tool on the front bracket and got it to line up after several adjustments.

 

If I were to do this again, I would release the bushing before removing the bolt.

Edited December 24, 2015 by 1dmurrray

[Myronf]

I had the saame problem.  I put a taper on the end of the bolt and tapped it in.  Then put the socket on it.  worked fine.