Hot Start Problem

[Rodolfo Müller]

Hello there!

I have a 1997 Porsche Boxster with only 8K miles, all original and in an extremely good shape.

Recently when I'm going to start the car I have no problem, but after it getting the regular temperature operation (around 190F) if I turn of the car it does not turn on again until it cools down.

Have replaced all relays already (fuel pump, dme, ignition lock) and nothing seems to correct the problem.

Below you have two videos of the problem, when is not under the regular temperature and a little bit after:

Thanks in advance for an advice!

[JFP in PA]

Hello there!

I have a 1997 Porsche Boxster with only 8K miles, all original and in an extremely good shape.

Recently when I'm going to start the car I have no problem, but after it getting the regular temperature operation (around 190F) if I turn of the car it does not turn on again until it cools down.

Have replaced all relays already (fuel pump, dme, ignition lock) and nothing seems to correct the problem.

Below you have two videos of the problem, when is not under the regular temperature and a little bit after:

Thanks in advance for an advice!

 

Welcome to RennTech :welcome:

Have you checked your crank position sensor?  They are infamous for causing hot non starting issues on these cars.

[wizard]

Despite the low mileage, I'd also check the integrity of the cable between your battery and starter motor.

[Rodolfo Müller]

I forgot to mention something very important:

Car have a flood claim from State Farm which I believe it was just on the paper since the interior is super fine.

The only thing replaced after the flood claim was the imobilizer.

Where is the located the CPS? Can be changed at home?

For the cable, any suggestion how to test it?

Thank you a lot for the help so far!!!

[JFP in PA]

The CPS in on the passenger's side of the bell housing and is held in by one bolt.

 

Run a voltage drop test across the cables, you should have no more than 0.5V loss.

[Ahsai]

It's clear the engine is spinng slower than normal. I would check the following:

- Battery health and if battery cables are tight

- voltage drop test like John mentioned on all cables from the battery, both the positive side and the ground side

- check if both coolant fans are operating correctly in low and high speed

- if none of the above, it's likely the starter

Btw, it's unlikely the parts you replaced have anything to do with the slow spinnng symptoms.

[Rodolfo Müller]

Hello Guys!

Sorry for the ignorance: where is the the bell housing?

I will do the test about the drop test on the cables, can I measure with the ones that goes straight from the battery? It's a brand new one.

[Ahsai]

From your video, it doesn't sound like the crank position sensor. If it is the CPS, the engine will keep spinnng without firing. In you case, the engine/starter doesn't even want to spin.

[Ahsai]

How old is the battery?

[Rodolfo Müller]

Battery is brand new.

[Ahsai]

I would definitely suspect the cables and the starter itself. You need to measure the voltage drop:

- between the positive battery post (the lead post) and the starter positive terminal (that connects to the battery with a fat cable)

- between the negative battery post (the lead post) and the engine casing

 

As John said, you should not see more than 0.5v when you crank.

[micah Jacobs]

did you ever solve this problem with the hot start, if so what did it end up being.