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Posted (edited)

Ok so do I need to remove all the joints numbered 1 through 4 to get the flex lines off? I assume I do If I am removing the caliper and flex lines, there is a little hard line from the flex line to the caliper, this comes off as well I assume? 

 

20151114_212640_zps1bhxemzt.jpg

 

 

 

Also if I used foam such as ear plugs or silicone putty to plug the brake fluid hard line would the brake fluid eat this material? 

Edited by no1joey
  • Moderators
Posted

There are spring clips at  #2 & 4 that need to be removed, and then you will need a proper fitting wrench to remove the lines:

 

image_20638.jpg

You should use a short section of rubber vacuum hose that is plugged to prevent the hydraulic fluid from draining out of the hear line section, and only open one line at a time.

Posted

As you are replacing the flexible lines why not just clamp them to close them off when the caliper is removed. When you have the caliper back on then take off the flex pipe and put the new one on straight away with the hard line. If you do this quickly you won't lose too much fluid.

 

Take care not to cross thread the unions.  Tighten by hand first.

 

As I said before, take off the reservoir cap and put an air tight seal over the reservoir fill hole. You can do this by putting a small piece of polythene sheet over the hole and replacing the cap on top of it.  The reason for doing this is the plastic reservoir cap has an air hole which allows the space above the fluid to refill as fluid is drawn down into the m/cyl to compensate for pad loss.  This seal won't stop fluid loss, but it will slow it down.

 

When you have one caliper back together bleed that corner.  If you take all the calipers off at once it's very messy and you might have a hard job re-pressurising the system.  It's better to do one corner at a time and bleed it.  Then when you have completed re-assembly bleed the whole system finally.

 

Also wear gloves as brake fluid dries the skin and can be unpleasant.

 

Good luck

Posted (edited)

Thanks guys, I haven't seen the spring clips yet, I assume they just come off with pliers? 

 

I have bought some flare wrenches for the hoses. 

 

I am removing all calipers at the same time as I want to paint them they are looking a bit tired. Maybe then its best to remove the flex lines first and plug them? I have bought 2 litres of brake fluid for the bleed to ensure no air is in the system. I don't want to slow down fluid loss I need to stop it as the flex lines will be off for a few days. 

Edited by no1joey
  • Moderators
Posted

Needle nose pliers are the tool of choice for the clips.

 

Make up four plugged rubber hose sections to cap the hard lines and you will be fine, just don't let the system drain or you will have more problems.

 

I also would not replace the rubber flex lines with new rubber units, I'd go with braided stainless steel instead.

Posted

Thanks JFP. I went with these ATE oem lines, I couldn't decide on which brand of stainless to go with so just felt it best to stick with oem. 

 

With the size of the rubber hose plug, I assume something would fit tightly into the threaded connection of the flex lines will work? I have the lines already so I test this before unplugging.

 

I have the flex lines already, see my other thread, I got 4 lines which all look like the fronts, my rear lines dont have the spring going around the line like my fronts do... did porsche change this or did I buy 4 front lines? or are they all the same front & rear?

Posted

Listen to JFP.  Don't let the system empty.  It's easy to top up and replace, but it can be difficult if you introduce air locks.

 

If you are replacing the flexible lines you don't have to worry about keeping the old ones.  To seal the system put a clamp on the old rubber hose, or cut it through and turn it back on itself then put a small worm drive clip around it to seal it off. You can also cut it through and screw a bolt or self tapper into the cut end. It can stay like that until you are ready to replace it with the new hose when you put the caliper back on. 

 

Another way to seal an open end it with a matching male or female union part and a short length of steel tubing with one end flared and the other end bent over and crushed. The possibilities are many.   

  • Moderators
Posted

Thanks JFP. I went with these ATE oem lines, I couldn't decide on which brand of stainless to go with so just felt it best to stick with oem. 

 

With the size of the rubber hose plug, I assume something would fit tightly into the threaded connection of the flex lines will work? I have the lines already so I test this before unplugging.

 

I have the flex lines already, see my other thread, I got 4 lines which all look like the fronts, my rear lines dont have the spring going around the line like my fronts do... did porsche change this or did I buy 4 front lines? or are they all the same front & rear?

 

On the 997, the lines are the same; some aftermarket come with the springs on all four to protect them.

 

The threaded connection to the hard lines will actually slide back to expose the flared end of the hard line, so the hose needs to fit the line flare not the threaded fitting:

 

HardBrakeLineShort.jpg

Posted

Thanks Hilux & JFP. That photo really helps actually now I know what I am dealing with. 

 

I have bought all the right tools (I hope) & have the next week off and a hire car. Wish me luck! 

  • Moderators
Posted

Does this part circled come off first or can I just start undoing the nut on the hard brake line as is?

 

20151116_103925_zpsz0y0hv3d.jpg

 

The hard line flare nut can be undone without removing the clip, but as the clip will need to come off to remove the flex line anyway, I would just take it off.

Posted

Success! 

 

20151116_224713_zpsoyqxbnzn.jpg

 

 

 

I also only managed to spill this amount out of both rear brake lines 

 

20151116_224617_zpsw0rurg1a.jpg

 

 

 

 

Actually it wasn't a total success, in removing the rear flex lines I bent the bracket that attaches to the back of the rear calipers which holds the hard line. The nut circled was too hard to get off so I'll have to replace this part in order to replace the flex line. 

 

20151116_212004_zpsw97t5ah0.jpg

Posted (edited)

Thanks! Doing the fronts today, I decided to start at the rears as most ppl say thats the hardest to get off.

 

 

When doing everything back up how tight do I tighten the nuts again? Just as tight as they will go? 

Edited by no1joey

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