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Recommended Posts

Posted

Cleared the faults with my Durametric and the subsystem ready codes are not good to go. I went to get a sticker but no joy. The evap canister must be on the fritz....ain't no way I can drive far enough, or have enough drive cycles before the CEL eliminates again. What the hell do I do?

  • Upvote 1
Posted

Sounds like something is wrong in the evap system. Maybe it's obvious but you won't be able to pass smog until it's fixed.

  • Moderators
Posted

It is the EVAP system and probably a vent valve problem on the EVAP.  You will not be able to clear the code and pass an I/M readiness test until the fault is located and repaired.

  • Moderators
Posted

Blow out the evap valve ? Straight up replace the canister?

 

Try blowing out the pruge line (they plug up over time), test the valve for correct electrical fucntion and that it is clear as well. Also check any flex connections (rubber hose sections).  Replacing the EVAP cannister is not a normal occurance, but it can occasionally happen.

  • Moderators
Posted

In the pass rear wheel well no?

 

The canister and some of the valves are, but the purge line runs to the engine bay as well:

 

 

v8.png

 

 

 

1 - Mass air flow sensor, right 2 - Fuel injector, cylinder 1, bank 1 3 - Fuel injector, cylinder 2, bank 1 4 - Fuel injector, cylinder 3, bank 1 5 - Fuel injector, cylinder 4, bank 1 6 - DME control module 7 - Electric fuel pump, right 8 - EVAP canister 9 - Fuel tank 10 - Electric fuel pump, left 11 - Driver's door lock with switch for fuel pump supply 12 - Current distributor with cutoff relay under driver's seat 13 - KESSY control module 14 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 15 - Pedal sensor 16 - Fuel injector, cylinder 8, bank 2 17 - Fuel injector, cylinder 7, bank 2 18 - Fuel injector, cylinder 6, bank 2 19 - Fuel injector, cylinder 5, bank 2 20 - Tank vent valve 21 - Mass air flow sensor, left 22 - Positive crankcase ventilation heater 23 - Throttle adjusting unit

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Blow out the evap valve ? Straight up replace the canister?

 

Try blowing out the pruge line (they plug up over time), test the valve for correct electrical fucntion and that it is clear as well. Also check any flex connections (rubber hose sections).  Replacing the EVAP cannister is not a normal occurance, but it can occasionally happen.

So the valve up in the engine compartment is the one to hit first....

  • Moderators
Posted

 

 

Blow out the evap valve ? Straight up replace the canister?

 

Try blowing out the pruge line (they plug up over time), test the valve for correct electrical fucntion and that it is clear as well. Also check any flex connections (rubber hose sections).  Replacing the EVAP cannister is not a normal occurance, but it can occasionally happen.

So the valve up in the engine compartment is the one to hit first....

 

It is a good place to start.

Posted

Ordered it yesterday or so from Pelican. Ordered the oil separator membrane as well from Vanos BMW which should help as well and it was $19.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Have not had a chance to fix it yet. My e70 X5 was vandalized and been dealing with repairing all the window trim plus inner/outer door seals and one window. Managed to source factory glassparts cheaply and will drop it to the body guys Mon. I put mom and baby into the CTT so engine is always too hot to work on....ill get a break here in a bit and replace the hose and valve plus oil vent cal membrane.

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