Porsche 996 3.6L Tick After Warm Up

[Engine]

Iv recently purchased a Porsche 966 C4S with 55k miles with a rear end wreck, it had sat for at least 2 months with out a proper start up. upon arrival i did an inspection, it had a few pulleys bent including the tensioner pulley so i can't necessarily run the serpentine belt with out removing the engine and replacing it, air box was broken so it had to be removed including the mass airflow sensor. exhaust was untouched. no damage to the block. after preparing it i started the car for the first time, it ran good i listened in no ticks or knocks everything was running fine ( it ran with out a serpentine belt nor a air box/mass airflow sensor) i ran it for a few minutes then it started to have a slight tick and gradually increased to a steady ticking, i ran a OBD2 test for fault codes, the only codes i got was a mass airflow sensor fault and the throttle body code, other than that no other codes. i read around online i should replace the oil, because it could have been a stuck lifter or sticking valves. i changed the oil with 5w40 and added a valve cleaner to my gas, ran it a a few times for a few minutes at a time not to over heat my engine, at the moment i don't know if this may fix the problem because i can't necessarily drive the car, if any one can tell me if I'm at risk of loosing my engine if i do fix the engine up drive it around, or i should fix it up and take it for a drive and it may go away. or i should just take it straight to a mechanic. Please let me know your thoughts.

[JFP in PA]

Iv recently purchased a Porsche 966 C4S with 55k miles with a rear end wreck, it had sat for at least 2 months with out a proper start up. upon arrival i did an inspection, it had a few pulleys bent including the tensioner pulley so i can't necessarily run the serpentine belt with out removing the engine and replacing it, air box was broken so it had to be removed including the mass airflow sensor. exhaust was untouched. no damage to the block. after preparing it i started the car for the first time, it ran good i listened in no ticks or knocks everything was running fine ( it ran with out a serpentine belt nor a air box/mass airflow sensor) i ran it for a few minutes then it started to have a slight tick and gradually increased to a steady ticking, i ran a OBD2 test for fault codes, the only codes i got was a mass airflow sensor fault and the throttle body code, other than that no other codes. i read around online i should replace the oil, because it could have been a stuck lifter or sticking valves. i changed the oil with 5w40 and added a valve cleaner to my gas, ran it a a few times for a few minutes at a time not to over heat my engine, at the moment i don't know if this may fix the problem because i can't necessarily drive the car, if any one can tell me if I'm at risk of loosing my engine if i do fix the engine up drive it around, or i should fix it up and take it for a drive and it may go away. or i should just take it straight to a mechanic. Please let me know your thoughts.

 

If the car has been sitting, it might be a temporary thing.  Problem is that you need to get the car into running and driving condition to find out.

 

Also, please do not duplicate post, it is against forum rules.  I have removed you second posting of this.

[JasonStern]

The M96 ticking at start-up is common, as it is a boxer engine and oil drains causing the top lifters to be under-lubricated until oil flows through them. Likewise, the M96 uses a timing chain as opposed to a timing belt, so you're going to get more noise at start up until the tensioner is fully pressurized. When you first start it cold, blip the throttle above 2k RPM. This isn't going to hurt anything - the Bosch Motronics temporarily increases the RPM above idle at startup (although not to as high of an RPM as it probably should), and plenty of people drive the car with the engine cold to 3k+ RPM without any problems. On my 996, this stops the ticking. If ticking persists, especially when warm, then stop driving the car. Drain the oil and get an oil analysis done. Cut open the air filter and look for any metallic flakes. Worst case, you get a preemptive oil change. Best case, you identifiy an impending engine failure before too much damage is done.