I think I fried something

[Sensei]

I have a 99 boxster. I was switching out my fog lights to hid to match my low beams. I turned them on and the radio popped (sound) my DS fog light shut of. I removed the hid kits and put the std h7s back in. I checked to see of it was one of the ballasts and both hi beam where on very dim with a dim DS fog and DS signal light. Any time the fogs or hi beams are turned on both the fog lights and hi beams come on very dimly. The low beams seem uneffectived. Also the interior lights will not shut off now. I had to pull the fuze on those... any idea where to start? 

[Sensei]

I got the interior light worked out but the headlights are still missed up

[JFP in PA]

I have a 99 boxster. I was switching out my fog lights to hid to match my low beams. I turned them on and the radio popped (sound) my DS fog light shut of. I removed the hid kits and put the std h7s back in. I checked to see of it was one of the ballasts and both hi beam where on very dim with a dim DS fog and DS signal light. Any time the fogs or hi beams are turned on both the fog lights and hi beams come on very dimly. The low beams seem uneffectived. Also the interior lights will not shut off now. I had to pull the fuze on those... any idea where to start? 

 

And people wonder why I dislike these aftermarket kits.

 

Because of the energy required to run a HID headlight, the HID bulbs do not run on low-voltage DC current, so they require a power pack (ballast) with either an external or internal ignitor, which controls the current given to the bulb. Considering automobiles use a 12-volt electrical system for their lamps and the HID lighting requires over 20,000 volts to ignite the bulbs and then 85 volts to keep them running, the ballast is a necessary part of the system. Apart from turning it on it also regulates the voltage, and is an integral part of the HID system.

The power-up of the bulbs happens in three phases. First comes the ignition, when a high voltage pulse is used to produce a spark which ionizes the Xenon gas, creating a tunnel of current between the Tungsten electrodes. After this comes the initial phase, when the temperature in the bulb capsule rises rapidly, the metallic salts vaporize and the resistance between the electrodes fails.

 

Most likely what has happened is that the ballast or high voltage igniter in your kit has failed and has sent a high voltage spike backwards into your lighting harness, damaging something in the harness network.  As we can only hypothesize what has happened, you are going to need to get a wiring diagram for the car and start electrical testing diagnostics to find out where the problem lies.  You could have fried the alternator diode bridge, the voltage regulator, burned part of the harness itself,  or even the dash light switch.

 

Good luck.