oil in coolant

[rik881]

Update: i got the timing chain housing off today, a whole lot faster then the first time by the way, and i think the tensioner was the culprit. Cilinder 1 is at tdc now i am going to adjust the camshafts monday. 

[rik881]

Ok so i took off, belt, crankshaft pulley and timing chain housing which was not needed. At least now i know for sure it was because of the tensioner the timing got screwed up. I now have the timing set. I made a camshaft timing tool myself and got the timing right this this i think. I can't believe some seller ask more then a 100 dollars for this tool. The problem with the timing is that  there is no way to know if the crankshaft is a the right stroke to set the timing so you have to guess. Or am i missing something here. If the timing where wrong the engine would not start. So my engine is running now. Not the way it should though. I get misfire on cilinder 2 and camshaft sensor a bank 2  dtc's. I don' think these faults have anything to do with the timing. P0018 did not came back and check engine did not come either. I'll have to look into the sensor now i think. I don't understand why i get a misfire on cilinder 2.

 

Any feedback would be gladly appreciated. 

[hahnmgh63]

How did the timing chain guides look while you were in there? I've heard of them showing some deep grooves and even a Cayenne that had the bottom piece of one broken off.

[rik881]

Luckily the guides are fine!

[rik881]

Does someone have experience with setting the timing because i don't seem to get it right? When inserting the pin in the crankshaft pulley cilinder 1 is not yet at tdc. Almost but not yet. Timing has to be set with the pin inserted the workshop manual says. I did this but i still get misfire on cilinder 2 and a very crapy running engine. I wonder if i give the crankshaft one more turn and set the timing again if that would do the trick. If i had the timing wrong with a complete turn from the crankshjaft would the engine start? Why don't i get a dtc from the timing? I switched coils on cilinder 2 and nothing happened. 

[JFP in PA]

Does someone have experience with setting the timing because i don't seem to get it right? When inserting the pin in the crankshaft pulley cilinder 1 is not yet at tdc. Almost but not yet. Timing has to be set with the pin inserted the workshop manual says. I did this but i still get misfire on cilinder 2 and a very crapy running engine. I wonder if i give the crankshaft one more turn and set the timing again if that would do the trick. If i had the timing wrong with a complete turn from the crankshjaft would the engine start? Why don't i get a dtc from the timing? I switched coils on cilinder 2 and nothing happened. 

 

Try rotating the engine another cycle and then check it; it should be at TDC with the pin in.

[rik881]

I'll do just that, thanks. Third time, best time as we say in dutch.

[ekstroemtj]

So Buddy whats up with your engine? Running again?

[rik881]

I could write a book about it by now. Almost finished. Don't even know where to start. In short:

 

First i got both head off, i then put the timing back exactly as i had pulled it.  I had not thought about the timing chain tensioner. So timing chain jumped one or more teeth. I then hand made a locking tool for the camshafts. Easiest saved money ever!

 

 Car was running horrible and i got codes misfire on cilinder 2 and o0349 for the camshaft position sensor. At least the timing was correct! Misfire because i had a broken exhaust valve on cil 2 and p0349 because the don't know how to call it on the back off the camshaft was bent. I first got out bank 2 sensor and saw a scratch on it. I then borrowed another sensor but nothing changed. When i took out the second sensor i saw the same kind off scratch on it. I then realised it was the thingy ont the camshaft that was to blame. I now am almost ready to drive. I just need to get the other sensor from bank 1 back in place. Which is very hard to do by the way. 

 

Then i can go back to work on my interior. I have a new rear carpet installed already, just need to put the seatrs back and the mid console. 

[deilenberger]

 

 

Then i can go back to work on my interior. I have a new rear carpet installed already, just need to put the seatrs back and the mid console. 

 

Somehow we missed the end of this story. Did it ever run correctly again? Don't leave us in suspense. Don't be "that guy.."

[rik881]

Car is up and running. The problem never was with the head gasket. All there was wrong was the oil cooler from the beginning. Could i have saved me some time. I rewarded her with a open air intake. She is my daily driver now. Runs good but i should change the oil from the difs and the transfer case. Never have the time. I have even bought another Cayenne S. A totalled 06. People come all the time looking for parts so why not buy this totalled one i guessed. I needed some small stuff from it anyway. Taking it apart as we speak.

[deilenberger]

Thanks for letting us know. This thread has been a topic of discussion on another forum where people are predicting/diagnosing a bad head gasket based on very sketchy data. Your thread serves as an example of the risk of doing that.  And glad to hear it's up and running good!  The oil cooler in the sump is an "interesting" design. Volvo many many decades ago used an oil/water oil cooler on the P1800S series of cars. It was infamous for causing the destruction of engines when it started leaking coolant into the oil. Luckily - it simply screwed into the block mounted oil-filter fitting (and the filter screwed into it) and had a few hoses to the cooling system, so it was rather easy to remove. Took about 30 minutes or so to eliminate that point of failure. Without it - the engines simply lasted about forever (one I owned made it to well over 375,000 miles and had never been opened up last I heard of it..)

[rik881]

I even forgot to mension that the engine was still running crappy because i had 2 damaged valves, one broke off and the other was bent. So please whenever doing the timing take a piece of iron and cut the tool. The tool for blocking the camshafts that is. 

[rik881]

The old oil cooler was the big one, a lot higher then the new one i ordered. On my 06 i saw the same small one.  

Edited May 11, 2016 by rik881

[KenTHK]

Must the oil cooler be replaced completely or just the rubber gaskets? 

 

I have a 2008 Cayenne S 4.8 - can the repair be done from under the car or does the front need to be taken off to reach the oil cooler?

 

I'm having trouble with oil dripping from the oil cooler and some oil in the coolant. It fouled up the coolant tank sensor badly that I had to change it out.

[TJrob2000]

On 5/11/2016 at 0:47 AM, rik881 said:

I even forgot to mension that the engine was still running crappy because i had 2 damaged valves, one broke off and the other was bent. So please whenever doing the timing take a piece of iron and cut the tool. The tool for blocking the camshafts that is. 

Can you post a picture of your camshaft tool?  It would make it easier for anyone that may need it to copy it.  And interesting thread.  I think I would have removed the oil cooler right away as that is the easiest and least invasive task (I'm a big believer in going for the simplest possibility first).

[KenTHK]

On 21/10/2016 at 1:41 PM, KenTHK said:

Must the oil cooler be replaced completely or just the rubber gaskets? 

 

I have a 2008 Cayenne S 4.8 - can the repair be done from under the car or does the front need to be taken off to reach the oil cooler?

 

I'm having trouble with oil dripping from the oil cooler and some oil in the coolant. It fouled up the coolant tank sensor badly that I had to change it out.

Anyone ?