oil in coolant

[rik881]

Since i'm waiting for my new leak down tester i went ahead and tested the fan. Big fan does not work at all. AC fan spins fine though. This does explain a lot. Now i know why the temperature sometimes went up when turning off the ac. Luckily temperature never went beyond 3 mark. Has anyone ever repaired these fans? I saw they are pretty expensive on the net.

 

 

I now am wondering wether i still should do the test or if i should go ahead and pull the heads and have them tested. Leak down test would not show what went bad, the head the block or the gasket, i suppose. 

[rik881]

I finally managed to do the test! I did the test at around 80-90psi. I have bought OTC leak down tester. Which did not break. First one was Performance Tools brand and that one broke almost immediately. They are little different but end result is the same. Performance tool tester show loss percent OTC shows pressure so you have to do the maths to know loss percentage. I liked the OTC tester a lot more because there is no need to calibrate pressure to zero. I find it difficult to get the needle stuck on 0. I added some pictures. The one with the blue gauges is the OTC 5609 the other one is an identical leak down tester from another brand but the same as the PT.

  

 

I get 5 percent or less on every single cilinder except one. I tested the bad cilinder 3 or 4 times and i get a loss from about 9 to 10 percent. 10 percent would be good if every other cilinder gave 10 percent. I did not hear any noise that i did not hear from the other cilinders but i think i saw some bubbles in the coolant, i'm absolutely not sure about this because it was very little and i did not happen again. 

 

So i'm still not 100% convinced that changing head gaskets will cure my problem.

Using a combustion leak detector as Binger proposed might do the trick. I guess i'll have to go buy one. Or does one say go ahead and get the heads off? 7 cilinders say 5 percent leak loss 1 says around 10.

Edited February 8, 2015 by rik881

[JFP in PA]

I finally managed to do the test! I did the test at around 80-90psi. I have bought OTC leak down tester. Which did not break. First one was Performance Tools brand and that one broke almost immediately. They are little different but end result is the same. Performance tool tester show loss percent OTC shows pressure so you have to do the maths to know loss percentage. I liked the OTC tester a lot more because there is no need to calibrate pressure to zero. I find it difficult to get the needle stuck on 0. I added some pictures. The one with the blue gauges is the OTC 5609 the other one is an identical leak down tester from another brand but the same as the PT.

pt ld.JPG   otc ld.JPG

 

I get 5 percent or less on every single cilinder except one. I tested the bad cilinder 3 or 4 times and i get a loss from about 9 to 10 percent. 10 percent would be good if every other cilinder gave 10 percent. I did not hear any noise that i did not hear from the other cilinders but i think i saw some bubbles in the coolant, i'm absolutely not sure about this because it was very little and i did not happen again. 

 

So i'm still not 100% convinced that changing head gaskets will cure my problem.

Using a combustion leak detector as Binger proposed might do the trick. I guess i'll have to go buy one. Or does one say go ahead and get the heads off? 7 cilinders say 5 percent leak loss 1 says around 10.

 

10% is pretty much the limit on leak down tests, so your one cylinder is highly suspect.  A combustion leak tester is a good idea, I prefer the two stage Uview unit, which tends to be more accurate than single stage devices, but also costs more.

[rik881]

The UVIEW 560000 i have to order , that will take about 2 weeks to arrive. I would also have to reinstall the spark plugs, coils and may be the air pumps. I could however also go ahead and order the head gasket right away. Or i could by the Lisle test locally and test it right away. What would be the wisest thing to do?

[JFP in PA]

The UVIEW 560000 i have to order , that will take about 2 weeks to arrive. I would also have to reinstall the spark plugs, coils and may be the air pumps. I could however also go ahead and order the head gasket right away. Or i could by the Lisle test locally and test it right away. What would be the wisest thing to do?

 

All coolant system combustion gas tests require a running engine to get accurate results.  The Lisle tester works fine, but it can be fooled by coolant getting into the tester which can lead to strange results.  If you use the Lisle tester, follow the directions very carefully and watch to see if the test fluid level increases, which would be a sign that liquid coolant has gotten into it.

[rik881]

Short update. I got the UVIEW tester but i decided not to test it. I'm still waiting for my fan to be repaired and since i am already convinced about headgasket being gone i decided not to use the combustion test after all. So i went ahead ordered the head gaskets and took off the valve covers. I need to order the spark plug gaskets which i forgot or should i say hoped to use again? Valve cover gaskets i'll be reusing, they look fine. I noticed one off the alu pipes had been leaking red coolant, will be looking into that when rebuilding.

 

I have found the workshop manual: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=28167Great work guys!!!

 

It seems i'll need some tools like the camshaft alignment tool and the crankshaft holding bar. I hope to do without them because ordering parts and tools takes so much time. To be continued... 

Edited February 25, 2015 by rik881

[rik881]

I wish there was an easier write up, the work shop manual which is +450 pages is not so very handy. Anyway i got the suspected head off. I think i'll do them 1 one by one. There should be some markings on the timing chain but i can't find them. There is supposed to be a yellow and two copper markings on the chain. Instead i used a white marker. 

 

I saw one of hte waterhoses was broken i would like to order a new one but i need to find pthe partnumber. How can i find partnumbers? 

 

I added some pics. I can't really tell one place where the gasket is damaged, seems like it was leaking everywhere.  

 

 

[rik881]

First head is back in place waiting for the head bolts to be torqued. Torque specs i've found in the shop manual:

Setting torque

--> Tightening torque: 22 ftlb.

--> Tightening torque: 37 ftlb.

Undo all cheese-head bolts.

Final tightening torque:

--> Tightening torque: 22 ftlb.

--> Tightening torque: 22 ftlb.

--> torque angle: 90 °

 

To be continued...

[ekstroemtj]

RESPECT RESPECT that you are doing all this by yourself. I hope you can solve your problem

[rik881]

Thanks man, i got the first head back on and the second off. Both heads tested fine. Both gaskets were gone. Fan has been repaired. Just waiting for seal and coolant vent lines which were broken. Coolant to alternator line was broken as well but i can not find the partnumber for that. Does one have this partnumber?

[ekstroemtj]

Which part you are talking about?

[ekstroemtj]

Which part you are talking about?

[rik881]

I think number 11, i added a pic of the broken connection.

 

 

[liam_b]

You can download the Porsche parts catalogue, in German-English, from http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/originalparts/originalpartscatalogue/

 

Select Cayenne from the Model drop down and then pick the Year and click the Display button, the site then sends you a PDF file, roughly 22Mb.

 

The link above is for the North America model versions, I don't know whether South America has the exact same build specs.

Edited March 13, 2015 by liam_b

[rik881]

Thanks for the link, car is a Florida car by the way. 

[rik881]

13 is for the screw, i need a T connection. My part has no part number in the pdf. 948 106 361 02 is written on it, but i can not find it anywhere. I guess i'll be needing a dealer. 

[Loren]

948 106 361 02 is a valid part number for a T fitting.

[rik881]

Where can i get this part? Only at the dealer?

[Loren]

Where can i get this part? Only at the dealer?

 

Most likely yes.

[rik881]

I have found my part! Turns out they only sell the entire hoses with the T connection i need.  

Does anybody have any experience with porschepartshub.com? They sure are a lot cheaper then Ebay and Amazon.

[hahnmgh63]

For OEM parts I use Sonnen Porsche a lot and usually the cheapest for dealer items: http://sonnenporscheoemparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=215405

If I'm just going with an OEM supplier like Bosch, Lemforder, Mann, etc... then I use many others including:

www.autohausaz.com  good for Bosch and others

http://www.rmeuropean.com/

www.ecstuning.com

[Ahsai]

Porschepartshub is Sunset and imo it's the best. Low price and low shipping charges.

[rik881]

Thanks for the advice! Second head is back on. Now it time for the timing chain to go back on and then i'll be waiting for gaskets and T hose connector to arrive. I also have a lot of work inside the car i changed the carpet and have to reinstall everything. 

[rik881]

Timing chain and housing are back in place! Gaskets for the valve cover arrived but the engine coolant hose, new thermostat and the coolant vent line will take another week to arrive. I also drained the power steering fluid because it was pretty black. 

 

If anyone wants to try this, be prepared because it is a very big job. It is a huge amount of work. 

 

Thank you guys for the work shop manual and the parts catalogue! I can't wait to turn the key! 

[rik881]

Last parts arrived yesterday, so i put everything back together just to find out the timing is wrong. I get p0018, i guess that can only be the timing. I did mark the timing belt and put it back on the right tooth. I will  test the sensors tomorrow but my guess is the timing must have slipped a tooth, engine runs but i get misfire on cilinder 1,2 and 3. I hope to not have damaged anything i had the engine running (or should i say shaking?)for less then five minutes stationary.