oil in coolant

[rik881]

My CS 04 Coolant warning came on so i ran home.  When i came home i found to my suprise beige/ brown milkshake instead of the water i had put in. 

Stuff is really thick. If it were a bad gasket or cracked engine i would see some drops of oil i think. This can only be oil cooler i suppose. So i started looking on the forum for a diy or someone else who has ran into this problem but it seems this has never happened to anyone. So my question, is this oil cooler that went bad or could it be something else.

[JFP in PA]

My CS 04 Coolant warning came on so i ran home.  When i came home i found to my suprise beige/ brown milkshake instead of the water i had put in. 

Stuff is really thick. If it were a bad gasket or cracked engine i would see some drops of oil i think. This can only be oil cooler i suppose. So i started looking on the forum for a diy or someone else who has ran into this problem but it seems this has never happened to anyone. So my question, is this oil cooler that went bad or could it be something else.

 

It can be an oil cooler, but often is not.  Do not run or drive the vehicle, get it on a flatbed into the shop ASAP. Some diagnostic test (leak down, etc.) are needed that most DIY are not prepared to handle.

[rik881]

I try to think i'm not most DIY. What i'll do i guess, is take out the oil cooler to find out what went wrong. 

[rik881]

I find it a little strange this has not happened to anyone, and i have searched for it.

[Pkscheldt]

Unfortunately this has happened before:

 

http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/522849-help-please-2004-cayenne-s-with-dead-engine-coolant-in-the-oil.html

 

My 03 CTT had this issue and it was a head gasket, but others in my club have as well and in 2 of the 3 it was "buy a new car time" because of the cost of repair. You really need a leak down test done by a knowledgable mechanic for proper diagnosis.

[rik881]

First: There is no water in the engine oil. Oil level did drop to a little below minimum. Coolant did not boil. I'm saying this because too much oil has gone in the coolant too fast for it to be a head gasket or a crack. I really want to know what gone wrong and i want to do it myself. If the oil cooler has gone bad i should be able to see what has gone wrong by taking it of right? A leak down test is not somthing a DIYer needs a mechanic for, google will do.

[Pkscheldt]

Mine was a head gasket. Coolant never boiled.

 

It's a bit strange though that your "coolant warning came on" as in my experience this is an indicator of coolant level being low. If so, where'd it go? Ground? Engine - oil? And, you have oil in the coolant.....

 

So complete a leak down test, but to be very frank running a leak down test is the easy part, correctly diagnosing the issue on a Cayenne V8 is a little more of an art. Check your compression as well.

 

Also, you may think about making a donation to this forum.

 

Regards,

Edited January 21, 2015 by Pkscheldt

[binger]

My CS 04 Coolant warning came on so i ran home.  When i came home i found to my suprise beige/ brown milkshake instead of the water i had put in. 

Stuff is really thick. If it were a bad gasket or cracked engine i would see some drops of oil i think. This can only be oil cooler i suppose. So i started looking on the forum for a diy or someone else who has ran into this problem but it seems this has never happened to anyone. So my question, is this oil cooler that went bad or could it be something else.

 

 

My CS 04 Coolant warning came on so i ran home.  When i came home i found to my suprise beige/ brown milkshake instead of the water i had put in. 

Stuff is really thick. If it were a bad gasket or cracked engine i would see some drops of oil i think. This can only be oil cooler i suppose. So i started looking on the forum for a diy or someone else who has ran into this problem but it seems this has never happened to anyone. So my question, is this oil cooler that went bad or could it be something else.

 

It can be an oil cooler, but often is not.  Do not run or drive the vehicle, get it on a flatbed into the shop ASAP. Some diagnostic test (leak down, etc.) are needed that most DIY are not prepared to handle.

 

 

Mine was a head gasket. Coolant never boiled.

 

It's a bit strange though that your "coolant warning came on" as in my experience this is an indicator of coolant level being low. If so, where'd it go? Ground? Engine - oil? And, you have oil in the coolant.....

 

So complete a leak down test, but to be very frank running a leak down test is the easy part, correctly diagnosing the issue on a Cayenne V8 is a little more of an art. Check your compression as well.

 

Also, you may think about making a donation to this forum.

 

Regards,

 

Rik881,

 

You have asked for advise and not taken it from two people that have first hand experience with this issue. More then likely you have a blown head gasket and or cracked head /block. The beige/brown milkshake that you have described is the first telltale signs of that kind of issue. As a diagnostic tech you need to find the root cause. This can not be properly done by a DIYer. If you must prove to yourself what all of us are saying this is one option below. I hope this will get you to a professional to properly diagnose your issue.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-75500?seid=srese1&gclid=CMmE4ve3pcMCFYhbfgod350ApA

Edited January 21, 2015 by binger

[rik881]

I'm just questioning the advice because i really think and hope the oil cooler went bad. Car stood for a long while and i have just changed oil few 100 miles ago. There is no water in my engine oil as i said. I am so stubborn because i saw this happen to older Toyota's. I live in a small country with no professional Porsche mechanics. I could order the leak down test but it would take like 2 or 3 weeks to arrive. That is why i want to take of the oil cooler.  

 

Worst case scenario would be oil mixing with coolant again. Or am i missing something?

 

To me the point of a car forum is to not bring your car to the mechanic. What is wrong with a little trial and error.

[rik881]

I found this leak down test, would this be more accurate?

 

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/191190064827

[JFP in PA]

Leak down is always preferable.  As I have no experience with the unit you posted, I cannot speak to its accuracy.  You also need to make sure your air compressor has sufficient output in both PSIG and CFM to correctly operate any leak down unit you might choose.

[rik881]

I bought a leak down test. I took out all spark plugs and the intake. I don't seem to have the right socket for the crankshaft. Anybody knows which size i need? I am trying to do it without taking out the bumper and cooling fan. I managed to test one cilinder so far and that one is fine as you can see in the picture i added.

 

I did by the way drop the coolant which seemed very clean to my suprise. Only the last bit was dirty. 

[JFP in PA]

I bought a leak down test. I took out all spark plugs and the intake. I don't seem to have the right socket for the crankshaft. Anybody knows which size i need? I am trying to do it without taking out the bumper and cooling fan. I managed to test one cilinder so far and that one is fine as you can see in the picture i added.

 

I did by the way drop the coolant which seemed very clean to my suprise. Only the last bit was dirty. 

 

If I am reading that gauge set correctly, you are seeing very low leak loss, but at about 10 PSIG.  You should be reading the leak percentage are much higher pressures (90-100 PSIG air).

[rik881]

No you are wrong, the lower the better, thi is under 10 percent so it's fine. Now up to the next one.

[Ahsai]

JFP is absolutely correct. Try to google "leak down test" for the proper procedures.

[Ahsai]

Ok, according to the user manual http://www.northernautoparts.com/files/manuals/performance_tool/W89729_Manual.pdf

 

I think as long as you follow the following steps, set the air compressor regulator to 50-100PSI, and the tester works properly, then I think only the reading on the upper gauge (as % in your photo) matters. It's not clear what the lower gauge of 10PSIG represents. I think there's where the confusion comes from.

 

"6.  Set the air compressor’s regulator to 7psi to 100psi. Never operate tool with more than

 100psi inlet pressure or damage to the tool can result.

7. Turn the regulator knob clockwise until the cylinder leakage gauge reads “0” at the

 end of the yellow band"

[rik881]

Do i really have to take of the bumper to get a socket on the crankshaft bolt? 

[JFP in PA]

No you are wrong, the lower the better, thi is under 10 percent so it's fine. Now up to the next one.

 

If the air inlet pressure to the tool is really at 10 psig (or less), I would not trust the results, regardless of how good they are.  Higher cylinder pressures will show the real leakage rates, not lower.

 

What is the compressor line air pressure going to the tool.

[JFP in PA]

I just went and checked the minimum air input for our leak down tester:

 

"The minimum acceptable inlet air pressure for accurate results is 80 PSIG."

[rik881]

Air inlet pressure is at 50 psi. Documents say anywhere between 7 and 100. 

[JFP in PA]

Air inlet pressure is at 50 psi. Documents say anywhere between 7 and 100. 

 

I would take it up to at least 90 PSIG, and then see if you get the same results......................

[rik881]

If there was a way to move the crankshaft without getting front bumper and cooling fan off it would be so much easier. I can't even get out the engine oil dipstick holder. 

[Jimbabwe]

10% of 90 PSI is a lot easier to read than 10% of 7 PSI...

[JFP in PA]

10% of 90 PSI is a lot easier to read than 10% of 7 PSI...

 

And a lot more meaningful....................

 

Welcome to RennTech :welcome:

[rik881]

I got the cooling fan out, i then did the test at 90 psi. Result: leak tester broke. I'll try to get another one tomorrow. I'll be testing at lower psi.