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Posted (edited)

Thanks John. The spring loaded tensioner bolt has to be much much higher, maybe 44 ftlb plus, otherwise the bolt will be rotating when you crank the tensioner clockwise with a 24mm socket. Is that 7.5 ftlb for the L shape lever that stems out from the tensioner? There's a 5mm hex holding that L shape lever at the back of the tensioner.

Edited by Ahsai
  • Moderators
Posted

Thanks John. The spring loaded tensioner bolt has to be much much higher, maybe 44 ftlb plus, otherwise the bolt will be rotating when you crank the tensioner cloackwise with a 22mm socket. Is that 7.5 ftlb for the L shape lever that stems out from the tensioner? There's a 5mm hex holding that L shape lever at the back of the tensioner.

 

Item #4:

487742d1289334470-belt-tensioner-doesn-t

  • Moderators
Posted

I'm sorry, you are correct; the pulley at the "L" end of the tensioner arm should be 44ft. lb.  I must have been looking at the spec for the #4 bolt into the "L" shaped arm itself and not the pulley spec. :oops:

 

Still needs some Loctite if reusing the bolt however.

Posted

Hi John, that part #4 comes with part #8 as a package. It's a M10 bolt with pre-applied red locking compound. 7.5ftlb does not seem to make any sense. Even at 44 ftlb, it's not tight enough. It will spin when I crank on it while reinstalling the serpentine belt. I'm baffled...

  • Moderators
Posted

Hi John, that part #4 comes with part #8 as a package. It's a M10 bolt with pre-applied red locking compound. 7.5ftlb does not seem to make any sense. Even at 44 ftlb, it's not tight enough. It will spin when I crank on it while reinstalling the serpentine belt. I'm baffled...

 

Let me see if I can find it in a different source; back in a bit..............

  • Moderators
Posted

OK, checked a Pelican "how to", and found this: You need to get a 15mm wrench on the head of the bolt behind the pulley and then loosen the pulley with a 24mm wrench on the front. Be careful not to drop the spacer located behind the pulley when you pull it off. Reinstall the new pulley in the same manner, using a small bead of blue Loctite 242. Tighten the assembly to 44 ft-lb (60 Nm).

Posted (edited)

Our posts crossed. Thanks. So yeah, 44ftlb makes a lot more sense although I still found that not tight enough that #8 will start to spin slowly as I crank on it making clocking the tensioner difficult.

Edited by Ahsai
Posted

OK, checked a Pelican "how to", and found this: You need to get a 15mm wrench on the head of the bolt behind the pulley and then loosen the pulley with a 24mm wrench on the front. Be careful not to drop the spacer located behind the pulley when you pull it off. Reinstall the new pulley in the same manner, using a small bead of blue Loctite 242. Tighten the assembly to 44 ft-lb (60 Nm).

Thanks John. Yes, that's where I got the 44 ftlb.

Posted

And I did put a 16mm wrench on #4 to counter the torque when using the torque wrench on #8. BTW, the stock #4 has a 15mm head but the new #4 has a 16mm head, although nothing to do with the torque spec.

  • Moderators
Posted

And I did put a 16mm wrench on #4 to counter the torque when using the torque wrench on #8. BTW, the stock #4 has a 15mm head but the new #4 has a 16mm head, although nothing to do with the torque spec.

 

That stupid little bolt has given a lot of people grief and caused more than one to have to pull a lot of other stuff out of the way to replace the tensioner when the bolt gets banged up and can no longer be held while installing the roller, or will not tighten into the arm itself.  Not surprised they updated it.

 

Just looked up the assembly in the service manual, it is 44 ft. lb.

  • Upvote 1
Posted

Thanks. I'll recheck the torque and see how it goes then. The 24mm big hex head is actually an insert. They should have carved some slots on the end of the insert to mate with the L-shape lever so the insert won't rotate. Then all we need to do is to tighten #4.

Posted (edited)

BTW, I got all these 3 pulleys installed and they fit well. I have expected the pulleys to be a little bit thicker to add some margin to support the belt but it turns out the belt rides all the way to the edges of the pulleys like the photos here (not my car) http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/639970-maintenance-replace-serpentine-belt.html#post8649759

Edited by Ahsai
Posted

guys, sanity check here.

 

I removed what i would call the lower pulley during my water pump replacement.  Green arrow in link.  question on torque spec.  I will copy the sentences from Pelican below but my question is that it says lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lbs.  The reason for my question is in the first sentance it says for bolts M10x145 (8.8) should be 34 ft-lbs.  My lower pulley bolt is a M10x145 (8.8). So due to the location would it be less torque or is it 34 due to bolt size?  thanks

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/17-ENGINE-Idler_Pullies/17-ENGINE-Idler_Pullies.htm

quote -
"simply install the bolts and tighten to 34 ft-lb (46 Nm) for the upper bolt if it's an M10x145 (8.8) bolt or 48 ft-lb (65 Nm) if it's an M10x145 (10.9). The lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lb (23 Nm)."

Posted

Thanks Lauren I was stressing that I over tightened it. So torque values are determined by bolt size and not location? Maybe a dumb question:)

  • Admin
Posted

Thanks Lauren I was stressing that I over tightened it. So torque values are determined by bolt size and not location? Maybe a dumb question:)

 

Yes and no. Most times it is the bolt size and that is a good guesstimate if you do not know for sure.

There are a few places where torques are a value plus 90 degrees (or more) so it best to have the factory service manual or at least a copy of the 996 Bentley Service Manual.

Posted

Just checked and the bolt head Definately says 8.8 on it. Has 13mm head on it. I was nervous since it wasthe lower pulley. Will torque to 34. Thanks again.

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