Rear Wing /Spoiler snap, crackle and pop

[srfrdrew]

Hello, hope you can help

 

2001 996 Cabriolet...

 

Today just noticed the rear wing not lying as flush against the body as I remember it sitting when in parked position.

 

Went ahead and activated the manual switch to pop it into the Wing up position. 

 

Heard clunking and kind of grinding sound from back, freaked me out a bit and saw half of the wing up and the other half down.

 

activated swith to drop it back to the flat position, clunking and cracking sounds (not good I suspect) it went down on one side and other stayed up.

 

Gently pushed wing back to flat position but now what?!

 

Did not see any rear spoiler light warning while driving...

 

Obviously something is broken, any ideas on the fix...

 

Looked at some other posts but didn't seem to fit my issue.

 

Your timely response is greatly appreciated!

[srfrdrew]

I've had a bit more time to take a look at the spoiler.

 

When I deploy the spoiler in the UP position, the left side of the wing lags and does not deploy fully, I can pull it up and down with free play on that side along the 1 inch diameter plastic curved pipe that slides the wings on both sides, the left side (in question) tries to go up but mininally and has play in it.. The right side of the wing is solid  will go up fully and down fully and holds solid in up position

Edited November 21, 2014 by srfrdrew

[Ahsai]

Sounds like something is broken on the left side of the mechanism. The curved pipes are driven by a flex rod that's connected to the spoiler motor. This write up is for 997 but I bet 996 is very similar if not identical.

 

http://www.gregandjeni.com/2012/09/997-spoiler-rebuild/

 

http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/723817-997-rear-spoiler-drive-assembly-rebuild.html

Edited November 21, 2014 by Ahsai

[srfrdrew]

Ahsai, thanks for the links,  after looking though the process, there is definitely something a miss with the left side "drive line" (you call flex rod) which is connected to the "drive line assembly"

 

My question is does anyone off hand have any idea where the breakdown is.... My guess is some component in the "drive line assembly" either the blue plastic teeth and/or the drive line "tension springs"

 

Anyone have part numbers for these components mentioned?  as I suspect there will be more than cleaning Ill have to do with this.

[Ahsai]

The parts inside seem to be not available, at least on the P part catalog. Your best bet may be junkyard and ebay.

[srfrdrew]

Is there a part number for the whole assembly.. Curved plastic pistons connected to the flex rods that are connected to the driveline assembly/motor?

 

I suspect I will need to replace this whole unit then?

 

Loren, do you have a exploded view showing this assembly with the rear hatch/wing and the part numbers to the parts or whole  assembly I'm looking at?

[Loren]

Is there a part number for the whole assembly.. Curved plastic pistons connected to the flex rods that are connected to the driveline assembly/motor?

 

I suspect I will need to replace this whole unit then?

 

Loren, do you have a exploded view showing this assembly with the rear hatch/wing and the part numbers to the parts or whole  assembly I'm looking at?

 

Here is the part list and diagram...

 

2001 rear spoiler.pdf

 

 

[srfrdrew]

Since I now have some good understanding on how the Spoiler system works..

 

It looks like visual observation that the left "Hinge" 996 512 911 00 that contains the curved piston is somehow broken/compromised.  Again it barely extends and I can pull up and down on the left side of the spoiler with little or no tension from the hinge/piston. 

 

I spoke with AutoAtlanta parts and they said they sell ALOT of this part 996 512 911 00, which they confirmed includes the piston, and they said that this was most likely the culprit.

 

Loren, anyone else concur?  Just trying to avoid having to do exploratory surgery and just change out the part that's needed.

[Ahsai]

Sounds like so. Why don't you just remove the left hinge (two screws), operate the spoiler switch and see if the drive line moves as it should?

[judibake]

I have the 2001 C2 which had an identical problem. There is a gear that drives the cables in the motor mount and another set of gears in each of the hinge tubes. The gears are made of plastic and I guess with time and constant use may lose several teeth. The easiest solution as has been suggested is to try and find the entire mechanism on eBay. In particular email someone that is parting out a car. Paid $75 for the entire mechanism, motor and all. There are many sites to help you replace it. The engine cover does not have to be removed. Hopefully this will help. To order new parts from Porsche will cost a fortune.

[dgjks6]

I have a complete spare for the parts you need.  Ordered another deck and while disassembling the original I took apart them mechanism and have a complete understanding of how it works.  Let me know if you still need help/parts.

[judibake]

Me again. I posted how to replace the riser mechanism on a 2001 C2 on March 10,2014. I don't know how to post it as a thread on this site so you may have to trace it back to the date under "judibake". I think you'll find it helpful.

[srfrdrew]

Hi Judibake,

 

Yes, found your thread for this http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46137-replacement-of-spoiler-riser-mechanism/

 

Thanks!

 

dgjks6 I have PM'd you.  Yes, interested in the complete drive mechanism if you have one in good working order

[srfrdrew]

So an update to this issue...

 

 So, my issue was the driver's side plastic piston that goes up and down broke and was not raising it's side of the spoiler fully.  I changed out the piston along with doing the recommended cleanup and re-lube service DIY by Insomnic

 

When I turn key on to ACC, I'm currently able to manually raise the spoiler to the up fully extended position on both sides now equally (mind you its sill a bit noisy and I did lubricate both the piston tube the goes up and down as well as the service hole in it, per the DIY service  However, the noise is not my current concern/ issue.

When I try to close the spoiler manually, it does not close.. If I turn the car off and then back on again, I can then manually close the spoiler.  When I do go for a drive the Spoiler " red warning light on dash" remains on so my concern is that the spoiler is malfunctioning and won't deploy at 74mph (or retract at stop)  My thought is the TWO sensors that needed to be disconnected during service/fix may have either gone bad? or may have not been installed back into the drive assembly housing properly OR do I need a Durametric to just reset spoiler settings?  This job was a bit of a challenge but fun at the same time.  I would hate walk away now from doing all this work with it still not functioning correctly:banghead::banghead:

As an added note, Just After the fix... I was able to open and close the spoiler manually without turning on and off the ACC.  But after a few times of testing it manually, to get everything internally lubed up, it stopped going down unless I turned ACC of and then on again.  Maybe some of the lube has made contact to sensors?

Hope you can help, thanks for your prompt response, it is greatly appreciated!

Edited December 15, 2014 by srfrdrew

[Y2K911]

The Rennlist OP suggests ZEP 45 as a light lubricant.

Although, ZEP 45, which appears to be 'excellent for use on any surface that slips, slides, rubs, rolls, moves,turns, twists, or pivots' ... as the brochure says, is an oily liquid substance. Wouldn't any oily lubricant attract dust?

Just wondering: Would it be better to use a moly or teflon based lubricant instead for these moving/sliding parts? Any suggestions?

TIA!

Edited December 23, 2014 by Y2K911

[srfrdrew]

I used Ultra Lube Lithium grease http://www.lowes.com/pd_36389-75041-10307_0__?productId=3693222&Ntt=litium+grease&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dlitium%2Bgrease&facetInfo=

[Y2K911]

Thanks Drew!

I used regular white lithium as well but not the 'ultra' version as I completed the job this morning prior to seeing your post.

I removed both sides' female parts (the fixed parts) completely as they split nicely using: an 8-mm combination, T15 & T20 and an hex-5. I didn't find them that dirty but there were hardly any lube left and the rubbing was plastic on plastic, no wonder the screeching noise.

I didn't have to remove the center part of the mechanism as the binding comes mainly from both vertical sides' mechanisms lacking proper lubrication.

Happy New Year!

[srfrdrew]

Y2k99

Nice!

[srfrdrew]

FYI, Fixed my issue, the sensors were not fully seated into the housing, there is some "audible" click confirmation but not much.  It did not look as obvious when I installed the sensors in the housing the first time.