Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm going to bleed my brakes and clutch and just wondered if the procedure is exactly the same for the GT3 (and specifically the Mk1) as Loren's instructions? Is the clutch bleed valve in the same location as with a normal 996?

  • Admin
Posted

Although the clutch slave cylinder is a -90 (Porsche MotorSport) part I believe it is functionally the same. I don't think you can tell them apart without looking at the part number. Perhaps the internal bore for the GT3 is larger.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Loren, I bled the brakes, however someone on another forum questioned performing this yourself as they claim:

A small note of caution, if you're doing this as the 2 yearly brake fluid change and you have ABS you will not be removing the fluid from the ABS unit. It's effectively on a "dead leg" - regardless of whether you use a vacuum or pressuer system for bleeding, the old fluid will stay in the ABS unit.

The ABS pump needs to be "cycled" during the bleeding process to remove the old fluid - dealer job to do properly!

Is this correct?

Edited by GreigM
  • Admin
Posted

If you are using the same type brake fluid then I disagree. In a perfect world there would be a way to remove all the dirty oil from your engine too - but you can't without flushing. If you are changing the type of brake fluid from the original ethylene glycol type (which Porsche recommends) to say a silicone brake fluid then - yes, all traces of the non compatible type should be flushed /removed. IMHO if you change your brake fluid regularly you are doing the same as what you do with an oil change and making the concentration 99.9% new product. With flushing you might get to 99.99%.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.