Canister Purge Valve Replacement

[rplus12]

I just wanted to share my experience with changing out the purge valve that connects to the throttle body.

 

I had been hearing intermittent whistling at light throttle settings and eventually found that it was coming from the fuel filler area.  I did some research on here and figured it must be the valve at the canister or the one that leads into the throttle body.  I used the Durametric tool to activate both and the canister valve sounded like it was working ok but the rear purge valve was very faint...even using a mechanic stethoscope.  I figured that must be the problem and that it wasn't so broken to throw a code but not working enough to do what it is supposed to.

 

I looked on Pelican Parts for a replacement (996 110 129 53) but wasn't really happy with the $250 price tag.  I took my valve out and saw that it had a Bosch 280 142 323 part number so I figured I could source the valve someplace.  That didn't get me anywhere.  So I started searching for Bosch valves with 280 142 3xx numbers and found that 280 142 308 looked like it had the same electrical connection and could be used on a large variety of Audi and VW vehicles and was only $42.  The only difference I could see was a different type of input connection when compared to the Porsche part.  So, I figured it could work by cutting the connecting tube on the Porsche part and reusing the Porsche unique connector on the one end.

 

Once I received the new valve, I plugged it in and confirmed it was the correct connector.  I then used Durametric to check for codes and then checked activation.  No codes and the valve operation could be clearly heard.  So, I took some clamps and hoses from a motorcycle project and put things together using the new valve and Porsche connector.

 

I installed it, checked for codes, and took it for a spin.  So far, I haven't heard any whistling and no codes.  I will provide an update if the whistle comes back but I am pretty happy about saving a couple $100.

 

I attached some pictures of the Porsche valve, the new valve, and then the final assembly.

 

 

 

 

[JFP in PA]

I just wanted to share my experience with changing out the purge valve that connects to the throttle body.

 

I had been hearing intermittent whistling at light throttle settings and eventually found that it was coming from the fuel filler area.  I did some research on here and figured it must be the valve at the canister or the one that leads into the throttle body.  I used the Durametric tool to activate both and the canister valve sounded like it was working ok but the rear purge valve was very faint...even using a mechanic stethoscope.  I figured that must be the problem and that it wasn't so broken to throw a code but not working enough to do what it is supposed to.

 

I looked on Pelican Parts for a replacement (996 110 129 53) but wasn't really happy with the $250 price tag.  I took my valve out and saw that it had a Bosch 280 142 323 part number so I figured I could source the valve someplace.  That didn't get me anywhere.  So I started searching for Bosch valves with 280 142 3xx numbers and found that 280 142 308 looked like it had the same electrical connection and could be used on a large variety of Audi and VW vehicles and was only $42.  The only difference I could see was a different type of input connection when compared to the Porsche part.  So, I figured it could work by cutting the connecting tube on the Porsche part and reusing the Porsche unique connector on the one end.

 

Once I received the new valve, I plugged it in and confirmed it was the correct connector.  I then used Durametric to check for codes and then checked activation.  No codes and the valve operation could be clearly heard.  So, I took some clamps and hoses from a motorcycle project and put things together using the new valve and Porsche connector.

 

I installed it, checked for codes, and took it for a spin.  So far, I haven't heard any whistling and no codes.  I will provide an update if the whistle comes back but I am pretty happy about saving a couple $100.

 

I attached some pictures of the Porsche valve, the new valve, and then the final assembly.

 

You can also get it for $33.64 with free shipping on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0280142308-Purge-Valve/dp/B001COAS8M)

[dbmies]

I had the same issue - 2000 996 110k miles was howling at the gas cap, idled high at times and wouldn't start after I filled the tank unless I held throttle wide open and cranked for 10 seconds.  Started about 18 months ago year ago, but didn't throw a  code until recently - then got these three:
 - P0446 Shutoff valve activated
 - P1128 Oxygen sensing adaptation (idle range bank 1)
 - P1130 Oxygen sensing adaptation (idle range bank 2)

Blowing out the canister hoses didn't help - in fact I couldn't get air to pass thru those at all - they just pressurized. 

I recommend using Durametric software to check the purge valve before spending the time to pull the wheel well liner. I couldn't hear the purge valve clicking when activated so that was the issue.   Be aware the clicking on the new valve is faint so you have to go back to the engine compartment to listen for it. 
I replaced with the cheaper Bosch valve - $27.44 on amazon or 44 at Pelican. 

Amazon.com: Bosch 0280142308 Purge Valve: Automotive

WWW.AMAZON.COM

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Buy Bosch 0280142308 Purge Valve: Canister Purge Valves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

I was able to remove/reuse the tubing from the original valve by heating up with a heat gun - it took some effort and it twisted/kinked a bit but didn't crack.  I fitted it to the new valve with electrical tape and a clamp. Would be better to replace with automotive tubing if you have the correct size on hand. 

Thank you for the guidance!