Rear Main Seal Installation - Help!

[questforbalance]

Help! I followed my 101projectsformyboxster instructions for installation for the rear main seal and it has been disastrous so far. I have ruined two main seals so far. In the first case, I tapped the rear main seal in lightly with a finish nail hammer, but the lower left portion of the seal went in way too far. The upper right was hard to get in. I then got another rear main seal and tried it again with a tool I made from PVC pipe. The pipe was 4-inches, fit over the rear main seal and then I glued another pipe over that one to create a 3 mm overlap at the bottom. The outer pipe is larger than the bore, so it creates a stop. But again, the rear main seal went in cocked. The lower left went all the way in again. This time I banged harder with my hammer on the upper right and the left bottom went in deeper, all the way back to the chain. The upper right went in a little bit more. Another rear main seal ruined. What am I doing wrong? How do I get this seal in here? Help! Help!

[kbrandsma]

Here is a tool for sale that was created by a Renntech member.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46926-fs-996-rear-main-seal-installation-tool/

Edited August 10, 2014 by kbrandsma

[JFP in PA]

Help! I followed my 101projectsformyboxster instructions for installation for the rear main seal and it has been disastrous so far. I have ruined two main seals so far. In the first case, I tapped the rear main seal in lightly with a finish nail hammer, but the lower left portion of the seal went in way too far. The upper right was hard to get in. I then got another rear main seal and tried it again with a tool I made from PVC pipe. The pipe was 4-inches, fit over the rear main seal and then I glued another pipe over that one to create a 3 mm overlap at the bottom. The outer pipe is larger than the bore, so it creates a stop. But again, the rear main seal went in cocked. The lower left went all the way in again. This time I banged harder with my hammer on the upper right and the left bottom went in deeper, all the way back to the chain. The upper right went in a little bit more. Another rear main seal ruined. What am I doing wrong? How do I get this seal in here? Help! Help!

 

First, stop following Wayne's instructions.  The OEM tool holds the seal around the outside while a second section presses it home using a threaded shaft.  You need to put the hammer down, and wearing clean nitrile or latex shop gloves (this seal does not like any contamination, lubricant, or sealant; any of which will cause it to leak), you need to gently get the seal evenly started in the opening before even attempting to move it to its correct inserted depth.

 

 

[JFP in PA]

You might also want to look at the tool another poster made from a PVC cap the pulls the seal in more evenly:  http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46156-rms-seal-replacement-at-45k-miles/#entry257854

[questforbalance]

Hello JFP,

Thanks for the reply. I will go to Home Depot and look at the cap and coupler. I am also considering buying coloradocurt's tool. But I have to admit, I am tired of using a hammer. I found this tool that looks like the Porsche tool. It is expensive, not as expensive as the Porsche tool, but I think I am starting to get desperate. http://www.samstagsales.com/SirTool/stp_262x.jpg. Do you have any thoughts about this tool? Here is another link. Scrowl down and look at ST P262 (9609)  http://www.samstagsales.com/Porsche.htm

[JFP in PA]

Hello JFP,

Thanks for the reply. I will go to Home Depot and look at the cap and coupler. I am also considering buying coloradocurt's tool. But I have to admit, I am tired of using a hammer. I found this tool that looks like the Porsche tool. It is expensive, not as expensive as the Porsche tool, but I think I am starting to get desperate. http://www.samstagsales.com/SirTool/stp_262x.jpg. Do you have any thoughts about this tool? Here is another link. Scrowl down and look at ST P262 (9609)  http://www.samstagsales.com/Porsche.htm

 

That looks like their version of the late tool, but I would confirm that before spending the money as the wrong tool will install the seal at the incorrect depth and cause it to leak.

[questforbalance]

Hello JFP,

 

In the 9699 tool diagram you have above, what is it that #5 (9699/2 Assembly Aid) does? Is says it is for the PFTE sealing ring. Is that the plastic cone that comes with the RMS? It appears that the samstag tool may not have that piece. Is that piece required?  BTW, is the Victor Reinz RMS is an good quality OEM equivalent?

[JFP in PA]

Hello JFP,

 

In the 9699 tool diagram you have above, what is it that #5 (9699/2 Assembly Aid) does? Is says it is for the PFTE sealing ring. Is that the plastic cone that comes with the RMS? It appears that the samstag tool may not have that piece. Is that piece required?  BTW, is the Victor Reinz RMS is an good quality OEM equivalent?

 

It holds the seal, and is a separate item.  No, it is not the plastic cone, it is metal, and specific to the PTFE seal, and yes, it is required.  I don't know anything about the Reinz seal, we only use the OEM part.

[questforbalance]

Hello JFP,

 

I got the Porsche tools (9699 and 9699/2) today, yes, I bought it. I will sell it after I use it. Can you provide me with some instructions on using the tool and installing the rms with this tool? Also, can I use the existing flywheel bolts to secure the tool to the crankshaft? (gee, I hope so)

[JFP in PA]

Hello JFP,

 

I got the Porsche tools (9699 and 9699/2) today, yes, I bought it. I will sell it after I use it. Can you provide me with some instructions on using the tool and installing the rms with this tool? Also, can I use the existing flywheel bolts to secure the tool to the crankshaft? (gee, I hope so)

 

OK, pretty simple actually.  If it is not out already, you need to pull the old seal.  Normal way is to thread a small screw into the body of the seal and pull it out with pliers, being extremely careful to not let the screw scratch either the crank flange or the seal bore.  Using a small  lint free cloth and a bit of acetone, carefully wipe off any grease, oil, or residue left by the old seal.  Both the bore and flange must be scrupulously clean, no fingerprints or any other materials should remain.

 

I've pulled down this diagram to help with the explanation:

 

 

Now slide the new seal over the assembly aid, being careful to not get fingerprints on the mating surfaces, clean nitrile gloves are the order of the day for this step. Attach the assembly aid (item #5 above) to the rear of the crank flange.  I don't think the old flywheel bolts will do for this, my tool came with two bolts with small Torx style heads that fit inside the two openings.  I sure you can find a metric Allan head bolt that would do the same job, but I think the old flywheel bolts have too large a shoulder on them which would get in the way.  This assembly aid does not have to be overly tight, I just run it down with a 1/4 drive ratchet until they are snug.  Now slide the insertion tool (#2 above) over the two guide pins and up against the seal, holding it there until you can get the large tightening screw started by hand and threaded down until it is holding the seal.  Now, using a wrench or ratchet, carefully tighten the screw until the tool just bottoms against the assembly aid, which should set the seal at the prescribed 13MM insertion depth:

 

 

Now remove the large screw and insertion tool, then the assembly aid, and admire your new correctly installed PTFE seal.

[questforbalance]

Hello JFP,

 

Thanks for the response. When do I take off the blue plastic on the rms? Do I keep it on when I put the rms on the insertion tool?

Thanks

[questforbalance]

Oh, another question: Can I use denatured alcohol or mineral spirits instead of acetone? I happen to have denatured alcohol and mineral spirits in my garage. Should I go get some acetone and use that instead?

[JFP in PA]

Hello JFP,

 

Thanks for the response. When do I take off the blue plastic on the rms? Do I keep it on when I put the rms on the insertion tool?

Thanks

 

If you are referring to the inner sleeve, leave it in place, the tool should retain it when the seal goes in.

[JFP in PA]

Oh, another question: Can I use denatured alcohol or mineral spirits instead of acetone? I happen to have denatured alcohol and mineral spirits in my garage. Should I go get some acetone and use that instead?

 

I find that acetone (nail polish remover) works very quickly and leaves no residue.  The other solvents should work as well, but I have no reference point to their effectiveness as I have never tried them.

[questforbalance]

Well, thanks a lot to this forum and especially JFP for all his help and guidance. I honestly do not know how anyone can get the new style rms into their Porsches without the special Porsche tool. Porsche has a monopoly on the tool., Porsche charged the dealership tax so that they would not resell the tool. What a racket. Anyway, my rms, flywheel, clutch and pressure plates are successfully installed, now I can start putting everything back together. Once I am done with this project, I will post some pictures. Installing the flywheel was a little challenging, it is a heavy bugger, and trying to align it up properly, torquing and do another 120 degree on each bolt under a car that is only maybe two feet above the ground is challenging, but not impossible. yourself,