Doing first DIY Oil Change this weekend: question

[Scott in Houston]

I have a couple of questions, one I think is a good question, the other may be a dumb one. :)

1) In the DIY on this site, it doesn't describe draining oil from the Turbos themselves, but only the 2 bolts on the engine.

My dealer told me to get an 8mm Allan Wrench to drain each Turbo. Is that necessary? If so, should it be added to the DIY site?

2) The oil should be at operating temperature before the change. Do I need to wear some gloves before loosening the bolts? I'm afraid of 180 degree oil getting on my hands. :)

Today I purchased 2 Rhino Ramps, a 15mm socket, 27mm wrench, the filter wrench from Porsche, the replacement rings, the new filter, and of course, the 0-40 Mobile 1. :)

I'm ready to do this project on Saturday along with my brake fluid. :)

[Bostonduce]

Scott,

If you drain the turbo's you will need an aluminum crush washer ($0.25 each) for each one (in addition to all the filter and drain plug washers and o-rings) Don't expect to get a lot of oil out of there.

Use "mechanics gloves' . They will give enough insulation for you to handle the drain plugs-just be quick pulling the plug away or you will get basted by hot oil.

[Scott in Houston]

What size of crush washer?

Thanks for the info! I'm headed out to buy the gloves and a turkey baster type thing now.

[ar38070]

I would not worry about the oil in the turbos. When you take out the drain plug in the oil tank watch out. For me the oil first came out slowly for the first few seconds and then came gushing out.

[Scott in Houston]

I did the change. It was fairly easy.

I didn't end up draining the turbos because my dealer sucks for parts and I wasn't sure if I needed a new sealing washer after opening them up.

I will say this.... DO NOT add as much oil as the DIY here says. I measured what came out of the car, and it was around 6.5 to 6.8 qts.

I put 7 quarts in, and it was filled with only 2 bars left. Had I done 8 qts, it would have been way over-filled.

The rest of the DIY was very helpful.

[ar38070]

There are actually two places to drain (not including the turbos), the oil tank and the bottom of the crank case. You get another quart or so out of the crank. If you did not do the crank I would not worry about this time.

[Scott in Houston]

I did both the crank and the tank.

Still only got 6.5 quarts out or so.

I let the crank drip for about 45 mins.

[ar38070]

FWIW. I did mine a month ago and had to put in almost 9 quarts. I checked the amount I took out as I dumped the oil from the catch pan into gallon milk jugs. It was over two jugs (which suprised me). I assume you had the filter and fill cap off and the engine warm. I did not let it drain for more than 15 minutes.

[Scott in Houston]

Wow, that has me concerned. I wonder why I only had 6.5 quarts??

You know, I wonder if it would have drained more if I had the filter and fill cap off allowing air to come in behind the drained oil, and my closed caps created a sort of suction keeping it in the engine?

Do you think that was it?

[ar38070]

That is why I asked if you had removed the filter and fill cap. Next time you do it remove them and see if there is a difference.

I would not worry about not replacing "all" of the oil. As I am sure you are aware, an oil change on a TT only changes 2/3 of the oil anyway (9 out of 14 quarts). If you are having to add some oil every now and then to keep it topped off, that is helping to "change" the oil too.

[Scott in Houston]

Good thoughts.

And yes, I have to add oil every now and then.

I may do another change of just the oil (not the filter) in a few thousand miles anyway.

[Scott in Houston]

I just learned the part number for the washer seal on the turbo reservoir drain.

PN 900-123-140-30 (aluminum)

The DIY oil change for the TT should be updated to include draining the 2 turbos and replacing this washer.

The turbos are removed using an 8mm Allen wrench.