Boxster Won't Start--Electrical Issue?

[Jetflyby]

Have a 2000 Boxster S, aftermarket, pro installed stereo. Last year, I installed a backup camera and it worked well. While backing out of my garage yesterday morning, I noticed it wasn't working. After coming home from work, popped the trunk and started troubleshooting, and found that the power wire wasn't carrying power from the radio (where I jumped power from) to the back of the car. It was getting late so started to pack things up for another day when I noticed my radio had no power going to it, wouldn't turn on. I thought--hey this looks like a fuse issue, but when I checked fuses D8 and D9, they were fine...checked the fuse on the radio and it was fine as well.

Then the real fun began--turned the key and it the car didn't make a sound...wouldn't turn over,no clicking, cranking, or otherwise! I thought--could have drained the battery with all the troubleshooting so I trickle charged it overnight and still no luck.

It is acting like a Boxster acts if you don't fully depress the clutch while trying to start it--the instrument cluster lights all turn on, the climate control, windows, and top all work (although the aftermarket mod to the top switch that allows for one-touch closing of the top stopped working).

I was thinking of disconnecting the battery for an hour or so just to see if it helps, read it in some forums...will this erase the error codes?

Thought it might not hurt to go through all the fuses to see if any have blown...thinking that the power line for the backup camera (which wasn't carrying power from the front to the back of the car for my backup camera) might have lost insulation and may be causing a short somewhere causing a fuse to blow?

Could electrical gremlins have thrown my security system? If that happens do all the dash lights still light when turning the key like mine does?

Any suggestion?

Thanks in advance!

Mike

[kbrandsma]

Hi Jetflyby,

 

Yes, all the lights come on when you turn your key prior to startup.  That way you can tell if any bulbs have burnt out. 

 

Check battery first, run a test across your terminals of your battery with a multimeter. It should read 11.8-12 volts before starting and 13.8 - 14 volts when started. 

 

I would suspect a clutch safety interlock switch.  You can always bypass the switch with a jumper to do a test. The switch is there for your safety, so Ieaving the jumper in place is not a long term fix.  If not the clutch by-pass then most likely a faulty ignition switch. 

 

For more information run a search on this site or click HERE

 

Good luck!

Edited July 19, 2014 by kbrandsma

[Jetflyby]

Thanks kbrandsma! I'll check the owner's manual on where to find the switch. I have an appointment with the shop to have it towed in on Tuesday, but I'd like to see if I can troubleshoot a bit first...I wonder if this could this be self-inflicted, i.e. a short caused by the power wire for backup camera caused the failure of the clutch safety switch, or the fact that the car is 15 years old....

[JFP in PA]

Have a 2000 Boxster S, aftermarket, pro installed stereo. Last year, I installed a backup camera and it worked well. While backing out of my garage yesterday morning, I noticed it wasn't working. After coming home from work, popped the trunk and started troubleshooting, and found that the power wire wasn't carrying power from the radio (where I jumped power from) to the back of the car. It was getting late so started to pack things up for another day when I noticed my radio had no power going to it, wouldn't turn on. I thought--hey this looks like a fuse issue, but when I checked fuses D8 and D9, they were fine...checked the fuse on the radio and it was fine as well.

Then the real fun began--turned the key and it the car didn't make a sound...wouldn't turn over,no clicking, cranking, or otherwise! I thought--could have drained the battery with all the troubleshooting so I trickle charged it overnight and still no luck.

It is acting like a Boxster acts if you don't fully depress the clutch while trying to start it--the instrument cluster lights all turn on, the climate control, windows, and top all work (although the aftermarket mod to the top switch that allows for one-touch closing of the top stopped working).

I was thinking of disconnecting the battery for an hour or so just to see if it helps, read it in some forums...will this erase the error codes?

Thought it might not hurt to go through all the fuses to see if any have blown...thinking that the power line for the backup camera (which wasn't carrying power from the front to the back of the car for my backup camera) might have lost insulation and may be causing a short somewhere causing a fuse to blow?

Could electrical gremlins have thrown my security system? If that happens do all the dash lights still light when turning the key like mine does?

Any suggestion?

Thanks in advance!

Mike

 

Suggestion number one: Never disconnect the battery "to clear codes" until they have been read by a Porsche specific scan tool. The DME collects and stores data that can often be very helpful in guiding you to the correct solution to your problems. When you dump all that data by disconnecting the battery, you are flying totally blind............

[kbrandsma]

I updated the link.  For more information run a search on this site or click HERE

Edited July 19, 2014 by kbrandsma

[Jetflyby]

Thanks--JFP, you misunderstood my question about disconnecting the battery...to put it another way: Will disconnecting the battery clear the codes? It sounds like you interpreted it to mean that I wanted to use it as a tactic to solve my problem. From your reply, I am assuming that by disconnecting the battery the codes WILL clear, which I wish to avoid due to the reason you mention...if I got that wrong, let me know.

Kbrandsma--thanks for the update!

[JFP in PA]

Thanks--JFP, you misunderstood my question about disconnecting the battery...to put it another way: Will disconnecting the battery clear the codes? It sounds like you interpreted it to mean that I wanted to use it as a tactic to solve my problem. From your reply, I am assuming that by disconnecting the battery the codes WILL clear, which I wish to avoid due to the reason you mention...if I got that wrong, let me know.

Kbrandsma--thanks for the update!

 

Disconnecting the battery will clear the DME of most codes (but not all as some require special steps), as well as all accumulated operational parameter data (PID's), both of which are a wealth of information for a diagnostic tech to access in determining all of the problems or issues are effecting the car's performance. But once the battery is disconnected, all that accumulated information is lost forever, which is why we always caution against taking that step, at least until the recorded data is captured by a Porsche specific scan tool.  And while some codes will retrigger immediately, others take time and some miles before they reappear.

 

All too often, we get cars into the shop where the owners have made incorrect assumption's about what is causing a given problem, then swapped out often expensive parts, only to find the problem persists.  And when we get the car, all the data is gone due to a battery disconnection dump, and we are left scratching our heads as to what is actually wrong with the car.  As we then have to keep and run the car for a bit to obtain more information, it tends to both raise the cost of the repair as well as keeping the car longer than we normally would need.

[Jetflyby]

Hi JFP, thanks for the reply. Instead of working with it myself, I brought it into the local import shop. My technical ability is good with electrical (on an amateur level) but I don't have the tools to pull off the error codes off thee computer, test the starter, etc. However, they've had it for nearly a week and they aren't having luck with it either. They checked the clutch safety switch (I could do), security system (I could not have done that except checked the fuse), but I am concerned that they basically are going to do the same things I would do at home, i.e. Check for short circuits, etc.and rack up some mega-charges. I am thinking that I should ask them to check some specific things, i.e. Starter, error codes, and if they don't find anything bring it home for me to troubleshoot.

Thoughts? If I ask them to test specific areas that require specific tools or a high degree of skill, do you have a suggestions of what that should be? Thanks! Mike

[JFP in PA]

Hi JFP, thanks for the reply. Instead of working with it myself, I brought it into the local import shop. My technical ability is good with electrical (on an amateur level) but I don't have the tools to pull off the error codes off thee computer, test the starter, etc. However, they've had it for nearly a week and they aren't having luck with it either. They checked the clutch safety switch (I could do), security system (I could not have done that except checked the fuse), but I am concerned that they basically are going to do the same things I would do at home, i.e. Check for short circuits, etc.and rack up some mega-charges. I am thinking that I should ask them to check some specific things, i.e. Starter, error codes, and if they don't find anything bring it home for me to troubleshoot.

Thoughts? If I ask them to test specific areas that require specific tools or a high degree of skill, do you have a suggestions of what that should be? Thanks! Mike

 

My first question for the shop you took it to would be "What type of diagnostic scanner are you using?"  If the answer is not  a PST II, PIWIS, Durametric, or Autologic system, they cannot even see several of the key system that need to be tested.

[Jetflyby]

Helps JFP thanks...it typically services foreign autos, many Porsches in the lot, along with Jags, Ferrari's etc., and they have a good rep, but ya never know!

[Ahsai]

I really hope they don't need tips from you but if it was me, I would first remove the start lock relay and jump pins 30 and 87 of the relay to see if the starter engages (car in neutral). If it does, check the relay itself. If the relay and starter check out, check if the relay socket gets power from DME (voltage ~12v between pin 85 and 86 when key in last position before crank and clutch is IN) and ignition switch (pin 30 gets 12v when you crank).

Then you need further testing depending on what you find.

All these can be done with a $10 digital voltmeter.

Edited July 27, 2014 by Ahsai

[Ahsai]

Btw, the more difficult outcome of the above is you've eliminated the relay, clutch switch, ignition switch, and starter and found that the DME is not powering the relay, which likely points to the immobilizer. You can at least check the fuse on the immobilizer itself.

Did you a different key btw?

Edited July 27, 2014 by Ahsai

[Jetflyby]

Hi Ahsai--I agree, I hope they don't need my input but haven't talked to the mechanic, just the owner and he doesn't inspire confidence, saying things like "this isn't an ordinary problem...". They have a good reputation, nonetheless...

I so NOT have a second key, unfortunately, but you certainly gave me some talking points...hey you don't work in Northern Illinois do you? :)

Thanks for your thoughts,

Mike

[Ahsai]

Hi Mike, I think the mechanic should be able to tell you what he has checked and what he plans to check next. Since this is not an intermittent problem, they really have no excuses. They should have some ideas by now. E.g., he may tell you the DME is not closing the start lock relay but they can't tell why and it will take further tests.

I'm in SoCal....would have given you a hand if I were close to you.

[Jetflyby]

I agree, Ahsai, they should be able to tell me what they've done, and it helps to hear from someone like yourself who obviously has a lot of experience with this to confirm what I'm feeling. On one hand I don't want to be a pain in the a** to these guys and tell them their job, but on the other hand the lack of good feedback of what they've done is making me antsy.

Thanks again for you feedback!

Mike

[ealltech]

The system will not bleed the ABS without turning on bleed mode using Durametric or a Porsche PIWIS tool.

 

If you have not opened the system (introduced air) then you should be able to bleed the brakes normally bypassing the ABS/PSM system.