R&R sparkplugs, how tough? pointers to how-to?

[boxster_nut]

Time to replace the plugs, am wondering how tough a job it is....

Didn't find anything useful on Google, so I thought I'd ask the experts for tips/pointers...

 

What is the OEM plug for a 97 boxster?

 

Thanks much!

 

John

 

[JFP in PA]

Time to replace the plugs, am wondering how tough a job it is....

Didn't find anything useful on Google, so I thought I'd ask the experts for tips/pointers...

 

What is the OEM plug for a 97 boxster?

 

Thanks much!

 

John

Beru was the factory plug.  Changing the plug is pretty straight forward; we like to use both anti seize on the threads and a dab of dielectric grease on the plug insulator.  Be sure to torque to specs, and inspect the plug tubes for any oil leakage while you are in there.

[boxster_nut]

 

Time to replace the plugs, am wondering how tough a job it is....

Didn't find anything useful on Google, so I thought I'd ask the experts for tips/pointers...

 

What is the OEM plug for a 97 boxster?

 

Thanks much!

 

John

Beru was the factory plug.  Changing the plug is pretty straight forward; we like to use both anti seize on the threads and a dab of dielectric grease on the plug insulator.  Be sure to torque to specs, and inspect the plug tubes for any oil leakage while you are in there.

 

Thank you...I've discovered that this is the Beru plug number: 14 FR-7 LUD, -True??

 

The following are also listed: NGK BKR6EK, Bosch FR-7-LDC+

 

Are there any pros/cons of either the NGK or Bosch over the Beru?

 

Are the tubes only available as Porsche products or are there equivalent quality aftermarket sources (e.g. Bosch)?

Source of reasonably prices plugs and tubes?  I checked Pelican and Sunset....others?

 

Best,

-J

[Dennis Nicholls]

Changing the plug is pretty straight forward; we like to use both anti seize on the threads and a dab of dielectric grease on the plug insulator. 

 

 

I thought Porsche issued a tech bulletin advising not to use anti seize on "modern" plugs.  IIUC modern heavy nickel-plating on the plugs prevents seizing in the aluminum threads as well as the old anti seize compound, while ensuring a great ground for the spark.

[kbrandsma]

_{I concur with JFP, placing a very small dab of anti-seize is good practice and always torque them back to spec.  Small insurance to prevent problems when removing. If you have ever had issues with a galled plug on removal then you know what an issue that is. A coated plug has never caused a problem on removal for me.}

Edited July 8, 2014 by kbrandsma

[JFP in PA]

 

Changing the plug is pretty straight forward; we like to use both anti seize on the threads and a dab of dielectric grease on the plug insulator. 

 

 

I thought Porsche issued a tech bulletin advising not to use anti seize on "modern" plugs.  IIUC modern heavy nickel-plating on the plugs prevents seizing in the aluminum threads as well as the old anti seize compound, while ensuring a great ground for the spark.

 

 

Porsche did come out with some information concerning the use of anti seize, which specifically addressed compounds that may not be electrically conductive.  Most anti seize compounds you will find are metal paste based, and are both thermally and electrically conductive.  As we regularly see cars that the plugs have been in for 10 or even 12 years, a little anti seize is a good insurance policy against them pulling the treads out of the head next time out.  And to put another perennial "old wives" tale' to bed, anti seize does not cause plugs to loosen and fall out, but improper installation does.  Use a torque wrench.

[Dennis Nicholls]

I have a "lifetime supply" jar of the Permatex silver anti-seize.  Perhaps people run afoul using the brush inside the jar to apply it.  That's way too much.  I transfer a small amount onto a Q-tip and then onto the threads.

[JFP in PA]

I have a "lifetime supply" jar of the Permatex silver anti-seize.  Perhaps people run afoul using the brush inside the jar to apply it.  That's way too much.  I transfer a small amount onto a Q-tip and then onto the threads.

 

You have to remember the basis of the DIY psyche: "If one is good, and two is better, then forty seven has got to be just right!"   I'm surprised that you don't see more cases of people marinating their plugs in it over night before installing them.........

[boxster_nut]

_{I concur with JFP, placing a very small dab of anti-seize is good practice and always torque them back to spec.  Small insurance to prevent problems when removing. If you have ever had issues with a galled plug on removal then you know what an issue that is. A coated plug has never caused a problem on removal for me.}

 

I agree, a (very) little dab will do ya.....OR, I take a lesson from my father who serviced fighters during WWII while waiting for orders for flight school...a small dab of wheel bearing grease on the threads worked well - at least the Allison and Merlin engines never complained....I've used that approach on all my cars for many years and have had no problems.

[lkchris]

Curious how to "torque to spec" when the spec is for a dry plug and when antiseize is a lubricant.

http://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=O96AUlIBkU8

Or ... http://www.boschautoparts.com/SparkPlugs/Documents/Bosch_Mobile_PDF_SparkPlugs_130911.pdf?cid=sp-mobile-install-doc

Note step 7

Edited July 10, 2014 by lkchris

[JFP in PA]

Curious how to "torque to spec" when the spec is for a dry plug and when antiseize is a lubricant.

http://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=O96AUlIBkU8

 

Simple, you apply a small amount of anti seize, and torque to factory specs.  Been doing it for decades, never had a problem; and high performance fastener manufacturers (such as ARP) recommend always using a lubricant to prevent getting erroneous readings from dry fasteners.  Their website has more info on the subject.

 

Unlike head studs or rod bolts, which are using tension and clamping force to hold gaskets or bearing shells in their appropriate shape and under the proper load, there is no real clamping load or tension on a spark plug. 

[JFP in PA]

Or ... http://www.boschautoparts.com/SparkPlugs/Documents/Bosch_Mobile_PDF_SparkPlugs_130911.pdf?cid=sp-mobile-install-doc

Note step 7

 

I would agree with not putting common oil on the treads as many oils bake off to leave behind compounds (mostly additives) that are both not good for alloy threads and can actually create electrical resistance.  A metallic paste based anti seize compound does not do that and remains effective after exposure to extreme heat cycling.

[KevinH90]

I will be changing my plugs in about 600 miles.  I did not use anti-seize the last time I installed them, but in deference to JFP and Kdbrasma I will do so this time.

 

JFP/KD - Do you use a specific brand of anti-seize compound?  I might as well use what the pros use

 

I am also curious about one other fact related to Boxster spark plugs.  My 2000 calls for changing the plugs at 30,000 mile intervals.  My friend's 2002 calls for changes at 60,000 miles.  Does anyone know the reason for the difference?  I'm not aware of any major changes in the engines that would account for it.

[Dennis Nicholls]

The maintenance schedule posted here:  http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/maintenanceintervals/

 

says Boxster sparkplug changes at

 

2001 - 2004 48K miles/4 years

2005 - 2007 60K miles/4 years

2008 - 2010 40K miles/4 years. 

 

My 2000 Boxster maintenance booklet says 30K miles, no time limit given.

 

The Bosch USA site says use the same sparkplugs, 7413, for both 2000 and 2001 Boxsters (2.7l and 3.2l).

 

One theory is that the 2.7l and 3.2l engines were new designs in 2000 and Porsche's just being careful with that year's recommended service interval.

.

Edited July 13, 2014 by Dennis Nicholls

[JFP in PA]

I will be changing my plugs in about 600 miles.  I did not use anti-seize the last time I installed them, but in deference to JFP and Kdbrasma I will do so this time.

 

JFP/KD - Do you use a specific brand of anti-seize compound?  I might as well use what the pros use

 

I am also curious about one other fact related to Boxster spark plugs.  My 2000 calls for changing the plugs at 30,000 mile intervals.  My friend's 2002 calls for changes at 60,000 miles.  Does anyone know the reason for the difference?  I'm not aware of any major changes in the engines that would account for it.

 

We use both Permatex and Loctite anti-seize compounds, which you should be able to find at any good auto parts outlets, or online.  Also be sure to put a dab of dielectric grease (auto parts outlets) inside the end of each plug boot with a q-tip before reinstalling the coil packs (gives a moisture resistant seal and makes the coil pack easier to remove the next time).

 

Porsche has seemed to have a penchant for changing the maintenance intervals on these cars; oil and plug changes being the most obvious.  For plugs, we tend to go with four years for lower mileage cars, and  40-50K miles for high miles.  The plugs are not all that expensive, plug putting the car up to change them gives you a moment to give the car a good look over for any other developing issues (oil leaks, etc.).

[Dennis Nicholls]

We never did answer the OP's question about online tutorials.

 

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Change_Spark_Plugs_%26_Tubes.html  Not IE friendly

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/07-ENGINE-Plugs_-_Coils/07-ENGINE-Plugs_-_Coils.htm

[boxster_nut]

We never did answer the OP's question about online tutorials.

 

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Change_Spark_Plugs_%26_Tubes.html  Not IE friendly

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/07-ENGINE-Plugs_-_Coils/07-ENGINE-Plugs_-_Coils.htm

thank you!...  I did do some googling and found the pelicanparts one...I figured pointers from owners/DIY entheusiasts would know the better ones. 

 

-John

[Dennis Nicholls]

I'm starting to change the plugs in my 2000 base 986 with 57K miles.

 

The first plug I pulled out is a Bosch 7413   (FGR 6 KQE).  It looks to be of recent vintage. That letter E at the end of the part number is the most recent dash number since that's what I bought as a replacement.  So I presume that the plugs have been changed at least once in the past.

 

All I have for records is a CarFax report, which lists helpful entries like "service performed". 

 

My question now is ..... how do you measure the "gap" with these 4 electrode plugs?  The center electrode stands above the plane of the four ground electrodes.   The spec is 1.6 mm + 0.05 mm.

Edited September 7, 2015 by Dennis Nicholls

[JFP in PA]

_{Using this tool:}

 

 

_{Larger problem is how you  bend the electrodes to open or close the gap on four electrode plugs............}

[Dennis Nicholls]

I've got a tool that looks just like that - made by Blackhawk - made in the USA of all places.  I know how to work it for standard one-ground plugs where there a "gap" between the center electrode and the bent wire ground electrode. 

 

But the Bosch plugs are supposed to be gapped properly when you buy them.  The gap on the new plugs looks to be just every so slightly narrower than on the used plugs.

 

 

As per the photo, there's a gap between the grounds and the center insulator, but the center electrode stands high over where the grounds are.....I'm not sure which dimension is the "gap" called out in the spec.

Edited September 8, 2015 by Dennis Nicholls

[lkchris]

Americans seem to be amazed and confused by the notion of spark plugs being correctly gapped out of the box. That is, in fact, standard practice for the combination of German engines and German spark plugs. Since the 1970s when my experience with German vehicles began, and probably longer than that. That gap will be indicated on the box, although not necessarily for multi prong plugs. You won't find a gap spec from the engine builder most times when multi prong plugs are specified. Just install them.

Not all engines the same, you say? In Germany, if it's a different engine requiring a different gap, there's a plug specifically for that engine. I once had a Range Rover with the old BOP aluminum V8, and iirc the Bosch plug was called LR10 and sure enough the out-of-the-box gap met LR's spec.

Just a little more of the difference between the world leader in things automotive and the USA, which is comparatively a 3rd world country when it comes to things automotive.

Edited September 8, 2015 by lkchris

[Dennis Nicholls]

Well anyway....

 

I changed out the plugs today.  It's a tiresome job on jackstands when you are over 60 and getting stiff in the joints.  I'd put this off for too long though - I ordered the set of plugs in February 2014.  I've been worried about the plugs in the car being the originals and therefore prone to being "stuck" and pulling a few threads out of the head when they came.  But these were newer plugs and they came out easily.  Too easily for the #1 and #4 plugs....they were barely in "snug"....whatever shop did the job before was too lazy to try to use a torque wrench on those two at the front of the engine.  But at least the plastic tubes, O-rings, and rubber boots on the coils were all in top shape. 

 

I was able to use a torque wrench (22 ft-lbs) on all the plugs, but had to "guess" on two of the hex head bolts holding in the coils (90 inch-lbs).  I just couldn't get access on those two.

 

I drove the car 20 miles and no CEL came on so I guess I didn't bungle the job.  Now it's good for another 30K/60K miles, depending upon which Porsche blurb you read.

Edited September 9, 2015 by Dennis Nicholls