LN crank lock tool - too long, should I cut it down?

[Dennis Nicholls]

Sorry to ask yet another question.  I've found I can't maneuver the black-handled LN Engineering crank lock tool into position:  it's too long to fit.  Probably not a problem with the 911 but the Boxster panel behind the seats gets in the way. 

 

I have a stubby 5/16" drill which is almost exactly 8mm in diameter - the diameter of the crank lock tool.  It fits in just fine and bottoms out at approximately 45mm deep when measured from the front of the crankshaft pulley.  I put some tape around it and you can see where I marked it with a Sharpie.

 

 

My question:  is there any reason I shouldn't cut the end off the LN crank lock tool, making the rod have a length approximately 45mm from the end to the black plastic handle? 

[JFP in PA]

Sorry to ask yet another question.  I've found I can't maneuver the black-handled LN Engineering crank lock tool into position:  it's too long to fit.  Probably not a problem with the 911 but the Boxster panel behind the seats gets in the way. 

 

I have a stubby 5/16" drill which is almost exactly 8mm in diameter - the diameter of the crank lock tool.  It fits in just fine and bottoms out at approximately 45mm deep when measured from the front of the crankshaft pulley.  I put some tape around it and you can see where I marked it with a Sharpie.

 

 

My question:  is there any reason I shouldn't cut the end off the LN crank lock tool, making the rod have a length approximately 45mm from the end to the black plastic handle? 

 

You do come up with some interesting questions........  Yes, you can cut it down, but I have never encountered having to do this.

 

I just measured the OEM pins for this, and the longer one (which has never caused interference problems on any car I have used it on)  is 3 1/4 inches (8.2 cm) long from tip to shoulder.  Here is a photo of an LN pin in place on a 986 car:

 

 

And this is the OEM pin in place:

 

[Dennis Nicholls]

My black handle tool from LN is 10.5 cm long overall.  Just the metal pin part is 70mm long. 

 

Notice that the red handle tool has been extended by unscrewing the metal rod from the plastic handle.  It normally should be screwed in all the way.

 

I cut mine down and chamfered the raw end nicely.  Now it fits in and there's still about 4mm clearance between the crank pulley and the plastic handle when the tool is fully seated.

 

EDIT  Now that I've been there, I wonder if Boxster owners just unscrewed the pin from the plastic handle, inserted the pin by itself, then put on the handle when the pin was fully seated.

Edited June 22, 2014 by Dennis Nicholls

[Dennis Nicholls]

Once you get the tools working for you.....

 

LNE instructions steps 1 through 16 went quickly.   The OEM dual row IMSB looks almost new.  The interior of the IMS had no debris of any kind, and hardly any oil   I think getting stuck waiting a week after draining the oil before the correct LN kit arrived let almost all of the oil drain from the two tensioners and the IMS interior.

 

[JFP in PA]

Glad you are making progress. :thumbup:

[Dennis Nicholls]

Well I've completed LNE instructions steps 1 through 22 now.  It's getting hot now so I'll continue in the morning.  I want to spend some time "pumping up" the chain tensioners before I put them back anyway.

 

 

It's always the little things.  Too long a crank lock tool.  Getting that blasted spiro-loc ring-thing installed.  Then torqueing the center bearing nut - every time I got close to the final torque value the center bolt would just spin.  Fortunately I have a high quality Utica inch-pound torque wrench that can set torque in both directions.  I chucked a screwdriver bit in the torque wrench and held the nut with an 11m box wrench, then set the torque CCW on the center bolt. 

[JFP in PA]

Well I've completed LNE instructions steps 1 through 22 now.  It's getting hot now so I'll continue in the morning.  I want to spend some time "pumping up" the chain tensioners before I put them back anyway.

 

 

It's always the little things.  Too long a crank lock tool.  Getting that blasted spiro-loc ring-thing installed.  Then torqueing the center bearing nut - every time I got close to the final torque value the center bolt would just spin.  Fortunately I have a high quality Utica inch-pound torque wrench that can set torque in both directions.  I chucked a screwdriver bit in the torque wrench and held the nut with an 11m box wrench, then set the torque CCW on the center bolt. 

 

Yeah, but look at all the fun you are having...................... :eek:

[Jager]

My black handle tool from LN is 10.5 cm long overall.  Just the metal pin part is 70mm long. 

 

Notice that the red handle tool has been extended by unscrewing the metal rod from the plastic handle.  It normally should be screwed in all the way.

 

I cut mine down and chamfered the raw end nicely.  Now it fits in and there's still about 4mm clearance between the crank pulley and the plastic handle when the tool is fully seated.

 

EDIT  Now that I've been there, I wonder if Boxster owners just unscrewed the pin from the plastic handle, inserted the pin by itself, then put on the handle when the pin was fully seated.

The picture of the red handle locking tool is the one I took when I did my IMS bearing replacement. Yes I did remove the red handle by unscrewing it so I could get the locking pin in-place. I put the handle back on the end just for the picture so you could easily see the tool.

 

Edited June 25, 2014 by Jager