AC Metal Line (Tube) Replacement

[2000GotBoxS]

2000 Boxster S

 

Hey Guys,

 

Has anyone ever replaced the AC hard line (Larger Diameter Tube), the metal tubing that runs from the engine (compressor) to the front trunk compartment, and the service access points, via the underside of the car on the passenger side?

 

I recently picked up a very unfortunate fatal dent in the larger diameter tube, Porsche Part No. 996 573 091 01 ???

 

I ordered the new part and had it shipped to me (NOT cheap) and I pulled off the passenger side front wheel well cover and, man oh man, do they have that thing wiggled in among a bunch of crap.  Porsche has used every nook and cranny to shove components, and this little cavity is full of stuff, making R&R much more complex than I was hoping.  Its definitely not above my skill level, I'm am hoping for some "wiggle" tips, or movements of the piping that .will facilitate easy replacement.  The tubing has more bends in it than a kid with scoliosis has in his backbone. 

 

Is there any EASY way to get this thing, not only out, but, back in.  I could easily cut the old hard line, but, that still leaves installation.  I am hoping that removal of the fuel filler components, and the myriad of vacuum lines is not necessary, but, am not holding my breath.

 

Any tips?  tricks?  secrets? that I am missing?

 

Thanks in advance for any help! 

Edited June 20, 2014 by 2000GotBoxS

[Ahsai]

Not sure if it will work in your case but I've read someone successfully repair a hole in the aluminum a/c line with something like this

http://www.alumiweld.com/

 

http://muggyweld.com/aluminum-welding

 

Edit: added one more link

Edited June 20, 2014 by Ahsai

[2000GotBoxS]

Hey Thanks Ahsai,

 

The only reason I have shied away from a repair in that manner is two-fold.  Firstly, whatever I hit, severely smashed the piping.  There really isn't a hole, per se, just an area that is about 5 inches long that has completely smashed closed.

 

My first thought was to cut the affected area out, and make some kind of aluminum sleeve and do just what you're suggesting.  Unfortunately, I would then have to heat it in place.  Also, I would have to move it quite a bit to fit the sleeve into place.  That I achievable by moving the back out back, but, then I would have to heat the whole thing in place, while its resting up against the bottom of the car, and well, that creates other obvious issues.

 

Its a good idea, and it was also my first choice, I just don't know if its worth the heating risk that close to the bottom of the car. 

[Ahsai]

Got it. I definitely see how this doesn't apply to your case. Hope someone will chime in soon to offer tips for R&R of that line.

Edited June 20, 2014 by Ahsai

[2000GotBoxS]

Thanks Ahsai,

 

Actually, I just answered my own question.  Once I removed the carbon canister that is shoved into that inner fender cavity on the passenger side, then the clamp that holds the AC Line is easily undone, and the line can be removed fairly easily.

 

There are three hoses that are attached to the carbon canister that have the pinch type release mechanisms on them.  These are pretty difficult to get to, as I have rather large hands, but, I did manage to wiggle things around and got them undone. 

 

With a couple quick pulls on the carbon canister, towards the front of the car, it comes out of its slots at the passenger door hinge, and pulls straight out.

 

Once its removed, the rest is very straight forward.

 

Thanks for your help.  If anyone else ever has to remove and replace this hose, its really not that difficult once you gain access to it.

 

Thanks again.

 

Brian

[blitzd13]

I know this is a super old thread, but here goes. Did you have to fill up the condenser again after removing the hose?

[JFP in PA]

1 hour ago, blitzd13 said:

I know this is a super old thread, but here goes. Did you have to fill up the condenser again after removing the hose?

Welcome to RennTech 

If you have opened the pressurized lines on the AC system and vented it, you first need to evacuate it with a special vacuum pump, both to dry out the system and test it for leaks, then it can be recharged along with the correct amount and type of PAG oil.