When to disconnect the battery?

[g00sestepper]

I have searched the forum and also the web and can't find anything that gives a brief overview of when and when not to disconnect the battery. I was wondering if anyone could give a quick run down?

I.e. Is there a simple set of rules to abide by?

Thanks

[JFP in PA]

I have searched the forum and also the web and can't find anything that gives a brief overview of when and when not to disconnect the battery. I was wondering if anyone could give a quick run down?

I.e. Is there a simple set of rules to abide by?

Thanks

When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery.

[kbrandsma]

If no codes or once codes are cleared, I would remove negative connection to battery when working on any electrical or anywhere near airbags. Steering wheel removal, door panel removal, seat removal, starter, ignition switch, sound system components, air bags, headlamp switch are the most obvious. If in doubt I always remove the negative battery cable. I place the negative cable clamp in an insulated boot (sock) to prevent accidently connecting it back to the post. Sounds unlikely but you'd be surprised.

Also, get in the habit of removing the key from the ignition as air bags are never really deactivated until the key is removed.

Edited May 7, 2014 by kbrandsma

[g00sestepper]

I have searched the forum and also the web and can't find anything that gives a brief overview of when and when not to disconnect the battery. I was wondering if anyone could give a quick run down?

I.e. Is there a simple set of rules to abide by?

Thanks

When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery.

If no codes or once codes are cleared, I would remove negative connection to battery when working on any electrical or anywhere near airbags. Steering wheel removal, door panel removal, seat removal, starter, ignition switch, sound system components, air bags, headlamp switch are the most obvious. If in doubt I always remove the negative battery cable. I place the negative cable clamp in an insulated boot (sock) to prevent accidently connecting it back to the post. Sounds unlikely but you'd be surprised.

Also, get in the habit of removing the key from the ignition as air bags are never really deactivated until the key is removed.

Thanks. This is just what I was after. As codes discussed above..... Contemplating getting a durametric........ However, they seem quite pricey and my friend who has a 996 who I could share with is selling it shortly due to another baby. I am certainly not interested in the fake route, and also want to ensure that I can run the latest version of the software.

The only reason I have hesitated in buying is that the enthusiast package doesn't allow coding, but the professional is over twice the cost! Would you say that the enthusiast is ok for what I would need it for, and to just pay someone with professional if ever required (like retrofitting cruise control et al)?

Where is the best place to find a genuine with 1 slot left? Does the price reduce significantly due to this? Have searched ebay for past couple of months but haven't come across one during this time period.

Cheers

[JFP in PA]

I have searched the forum and also the web and can't find anything that gives a brief overview of when and when not to disconnect the battery. I was wondering if anyone could give a quick run down?

I.e. Is there a simple set of rules to abide by?

Thanks

When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery.

If no codes or once codes are cleared, I would remove negative connection to battery when working on any electrical or anywhere near airbags. Steering wheel removal, door panel removal, seat removal, starter, ignition switch, sound system components, air bags, headlamp switch are the most obvious. If in doubt I always remove the negative battery cable. I place the negative cable clamp in an insulated boot (sock) to prevent accidently connecting it back to the post. Sounds unlikely but you'd be surprised.

Also, get in the habit of removing the key from the ignition as air bags are never really deactivated until the key is removed.

Thanks. This is just what I was after. As codes discussed above..... Contemplating getting a durametric........ However, they seem quite pricey and my friend who has a 996 who I could share with is selling it shortly due to another baby. I am certainly not interested in the fake route, and also want to ensure that I can run the latest version of the software.

The only reason I have hesitated in buying is that the enthusiast package doesn't allow coding, but the professional is over twice the cost! Would you say that the enthusiast is ok for what I would need it for, and to just pay someone with professional if ever required (like retrofitting cruise control et al)?

Where is the best place to find a genuine with 1 slot left? Does the price reduce significantly due to this? Have searched ebay for past couple of months but haven't come across one during this time period.

Cheers

The Durametric is a wise investment and will save you a lot of money over time. For most, the Enthusiast is more than enough. You can often find used units with multiple slots open at good prices, search around, they come up regularly. And use care buying one off flea bay, there are a lot of cheap clones of early units running around that cannot be upgraded, be sure you are getting a cable that is compatible with their Version 6 and later software.

[kbrandsma]

I have searched the forum and also the web and can't find anything that gives a brief overview of when and when not to disconnect the battery. I was wondering if anyone could give a quick run down?

I.e. Is there a simple set of rules to abide by?

Thanks

When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery.

If no codes or once codes are cleared, I would remove negative connection to battery when working on any electrical or anywhere near airbags. Steering wheel removal, door panel removal, seat removal, starter, ignition switch, sound system components, air bags, headlamp switch are the most obvious. If in doubt I always remove the negative battery cable. I place the negative cable clamp in an insulated boot (sock) to prevent accidently connecting it back to the post. Sounds unlikely but you'd be surprised.

Also, get in the habit of removing the key from the ignition as air bags are never really deactivated until the key is removed.

Thanks. This is just what I was after. As codes discussed above..... Contemplating getting a durametric........ However, they seem quite pricey and my friend who has a 996 who I could share with is selling it shortly due to another baby. I am certainly not interested in the fake route, and also want to ensure that I can run the latest version of the software.

The only reason I have hesitated in buying is that the enthusiast package doesn't allow coding, but the professional is over twice the cost! Would you say that the enthusiast is ok for what I would need it for, and to just pay someone with professional if ever required (like retrofitting cruise control et al)?

Where is the best place to find a genuine with 1 slot left? Does the price reduce significantly due to this? Have searched ebay for past couple of months but haven't come across one during this time period.

Cheers

I would make a post on this site under the "Classified Section". I bought the enthusiast package but later upgraded to the professional, just because I needed it for more than 3 vehicles. Also I don't believe the enthusiast version will activate the OBC. I would call the good folks at Durametric. They are very helpful.

Classified Section PRESS HERE

[g00sestepper]

I have searched the forum and also the web and can't find anything that gives a brief overview of when and when not to disconnect the battery. I was wondering if anyone could give a quick run down?

I.e. Is there a simple set of rules to abide by?

Thanks

When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery.

If no codes or once codes are cleared, I would remove negative connection to battery when working on any electrical or anywhere near airbags. Steering wheel removal, door panel removal, seat removal, starter, ignition switch, sound system components, air bags, headlamp switch are the most obvious. If in doubt I always remove the negative battery cable. I place the negative cable clamp in an insulated boot (sock) to prevent accidently connecting it back to the post. Sounds unlikely but you'd be surprised.

Also, get in the habit of removing the key from the ignition as air bags are never really deactivated until the key is removed.

Thanks. This is just what I was after. As codes discussed above..... Contemplating getting a durametric........ However, they seem quite pricey and my friend who has a 996 who I could share with is selling it shortly due to another baby. I am certainly not interested in the fake route, and also want to ensure that I can run the latest version of the software.

The only reason I have hesitated in buying is that the enthusiast package doesn't allow coding, but the professional is over twice the cost! Would you say that the enthusiast is ok for what I would need it for, and to just pay someone with professional if ever required (like retrofitting cruise control et al)?

Where is the best place to find a genuine with 1 slot left? Does the price reduce significantly due to this? Have searched ebay for past couple of months but haven't come across one during this time period.

Cheers

The Durametric is a wise investment and will save you a lot of money over time. For most, the Enthusiast is more than enough. You can often find used units with multiple slots open at good prices, search around, they come up regularly. And use care buying one off flea bay, there are a lot of cheap clones of early units running around that cannot be upgraded, be sure you are getting a cable that is compatible with their Version 6 and later software.

I have searched the forum and also the web and can't find anything that gives a brief overview of when and when not to disconnect the battery. I was wondering if anyone could give a quick run down?

I.e. Is there a simple set of rules to abide by?

Thanks

When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery.

If no codes or once codes are cleared, I would remove negative connection to battery when working on any electrical or anywhere near airbags. Steering wheel removal, door panel removal, seat removal, starter, ignition switch, sound system components, air bags, headlamp switch are the most obvious. If in doubt I always remove the negative battery cable. I place the negative cable clamp in an insulated boot (sock) to prevent accidently connecting it back to the post. Sounds unlikely but you'd be surprised.

Also, get in the habit of removing the key from the ignition as air bags are never really deactivated until the key is removed.

Thanks. This is just what I was after. As codes discussed above..... Contemplating getting a durametric........ However, they seem quite pricey and my friend who has a 996 who I could share with is selling it shortly due to another baby. I am certainly not interested in the fake route, and also want to ensure that I can run the latest version of the software.

The only reason I have hesitated in buying is that the enthusiast package doesn't allow coding, but the professional is over twice the cost! Would you say that the enthusiast is ok for what I would need it for, and to just pay someone with professional if ever required (like retrofitting cruise control et al)?

Where is the best place to find a genuine with 1 slot left? Does the price reduce significantly due to this? Have searched ebay for past couple of months but haven't come across one during this time period.

Cheers

I would make a post on this site under the "Classified Section". I bought the enthusiast package but later upgraded to the professional, just because I needed it for more than 3 vehicles. Also I don't believe the enthusiast version will activate the OBC. I would call the good folks at Durametric. They are very helpful.

Classified Section PRESS HERE

Hi

That was the thing I was concerned about John. The supplier of durametric in the uk is Hickleys from memory. Is it safe to say that any new one bought from them would be 2nd gen and therefore be compatible with v6?

Kbrandsma, if I can pick one up at a reasonable price that can run the latest version of the software then I would be quite happy with the enthusiast version. I just feel that if I am spending that sort of money new then why not go the whole hog and get the professional....... Decisions decisions. I will post a classified now. Thanks for this, I didn't know it existed on this site! Full of surprises.

Regards

[RD996]

Can one disable the rear spoiler warning light with either version of the durametric SW?

[JFP in PA]

It should be as the old version is no longer made, and Hickley's is the official Durametric rep in the UK.. The big difference is actually in the cable, which now carries its own firmware, making cloning a difficult process for the knock off artist. The old cable is also no longer compatible with software updates, which is another reason why buying a knock off is a bad idea, the diagnostic software it uses is now several years old and no longer supported by Durametric.

[JFP in PA]

Can one disable the rear spoiler warning light with either version of the durametric SW?

Can't honestly say, I've never tried that. Why do you want to disable it?

[RD996]

I have an aftermarket wing on my car and have stripped the OE unit (which wasn't working when I got the car anyway)

[Loren]

Can one disable the rear spoiler warning light with either version of the durametric SW?

No, I don;t think you can do that even with the Porsche tool.

If you installed a fixed rear spoiler (i.e. aerokit style) you will still get the warning light until the car reaches ~5 mph (forward or reverse) - then it turns itself off.

If you install a fixed rear spoiler and you always get the light then you have the wrong connecting harness.

[RD996]

The harness coming in is not connected to anything other then the fan and trunk light. Can I just pull the bulb in the cluster or something like that?