996 Oil filler tube replacment

[Eric]

Any one know a way, or if its possible to replace a oil filler tube without dropping the engine? The Porsche manual just shows two bolt replacement in their diagram. Easy Peasy. Seems to me I have to pull the alternator, and throttle valve assembly to even get close to changing the oil filler tube.

Any knowledge would be appreciated!

[Ahsai]

I'm pretty sure removing the alternator, throttle body, and the intake plenum are needed. No engine drop for sure.

[Loren]

You do not need to remove the engine.

The throttle body and center intake need come off as well as the alternator. Then it is easy.

Porsche book time for this is just under 2 hours.

[kgoertz]

I did mine this winter. Not extremely difficult but it is a little time consuming. I just removed the center intake and the alternator but left the throttle body in place. The two main challenges are removing the alternator, and then accessing the 2 bolts on the oil fill tube since they are behind the tube.

The alternator is pretty straightforward as long as you can push out the sleeve that pinches the alternator to the bracket. It involves a few hard hits with a hammer (preferably a dead-blow hammer). I couldn't move the sleeve but still managed to remove the alternator with a bit of wrestling. Lots of instructions online.

The oil fill tube itself is a little easier with a 1/4" universal joint and some patience. Also make sure you have a replacement gasket for the oil fill tube. I believe I ordered that separately but I can't quite remember since it was part of a long laundry list.

You need to remove the serpentine belt in order to remove the alternator so it is probably a good time to replace it as well.

Edited March 28, 2014 by kgoertz

[Eric]

Thanks much to all replies!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Domiac]

Here's a clear shot of the area you need to work with. It is quite high resolution pic so you can zoom it if needed.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/r1ugmbwbzfujiyt/engine-washed.JPG

Edited March 29, 2014 by Loren
made image viewable here

[Rapewta]

Removing the alternator takes a little bit of finese.

You will be removing and re-intalling the two small bolts holding the oil fill goose neck by feel only.

You can't see what you are doing so be very carefull you don't let one of them get away from you.

[steve20186]

I just did mine during a w/p replacement by removing just the alternator and T/B.

I had to use a swivel socket on a flexible 12" extension. Bolts holding the tube on were snug, but easily undone.

The worst part was getting the alternator off...or so I thought. Turned out getting it back on was royal PITA. It seems someone had bunged up the inside steel mounting bushing. I had to file it to get it smooth also make a tool to raise the rear mounting tang so as to keep it level with the front while with the other hand gently tap tap tap to coax it on. Got it on finally, but very frustrating.

All that said, if that busing wasn't so tight - it wouldn't have been that bad.

Be careful of the 2 small plastic vacuum lines that run over the top of the alternator. In my zeal to remove it, I smashed one and had to splice it. Not a huge problem and could have probably avoided that by having a couple more beers in me.

If it were me, I'd also replace the piece that joins the AOS coolant to the engine near there. It's called a "joining socket" PN: 996-106-226-52, but I used a brass Edelmann (PN 750400) piece instead of the OEM plastic. My wasn't broken, but the clamps started to leak from all the wrangling done during the w/p job, but from what I read these go bad and if they do it's a tow for sure. Mine disintegrate on removal. Be sure you have all the pieces out of the lines. I also replaced the engine side hose.

Now, since the OEM piece bolts to the motor in order to keep the hoses away from the pulleys, I cut the fitting part off the old one and drilled a hole so I could feed a zip-tie through it to effect the same thing. For most folks it's probably easier to just but the $10 part and some clamps and be done with it.

Edited April 5, 2014 by steve20186

[Domiac]

If it were me, I'd also replace the piece that joins the AOS coolant to the engine near there. It's called a "joining socket" PN: 996-106-226-52, but I used a brass Edelmann (PN 750400) piece instead of the OEM plastic. My wasn't broken, but the clamps started to leak from all the wrangling done during the w/p job, but from what I read these go bad and if they do it's a tow for sure. Mine disintegrate on removal. Be sure you have all the pieces out of the lines. I also replaced the engine side hose.

+1 for this. On my 10 year old 996 this was the only piece that broke amazingly easy while doing an engine & transmission drop. Changing this should be a no brainer as it is right in front of you once you open the lid.

Just go to Pelican Parts, search for "996-106-226-52", click "more-info" and then "reviews", first comment supports Steve's and my comment. Or click http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=&make=&please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=996-106-226-52