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Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all,

Starting to smell raw gas from back of car... Do not smell from interior.

Smells stronger (I believe) on rear right side (passenger) but also smell it on the rear right (driver) side of the car.

I am having intermittant issues with the car taking a bit more time to turn over when starting up but its not consistant.

I'm suspecting fuel pump(s) leaking drivers side fuel tank flange and/or on their way out completely...

110K on the Pig and no CEL...

Is this what I need ? new flange (which is an updated part and should show up made of black plastic as opposed the original which will be white plastic) youll need two of 955-201-133-01-M100 and one 955-620-911-00-M100

Posted

I believe I have isolated the raw gas smell to the rear drivers side....

Any suggestions? Not sure what need to look at when I bust open the rear seat to look at the fuel tank/pumps etc...

  • Admin
Posted

No CEL does not mean there are no faults.

There could be pending faults or worse fuel venting faults.

The car needs to be scanned with Durametric or a Porsche PIWIS tester.

Posted

Hi Loren,

Thanks for stepping in on this.. I found this on the site.. May be my issue as well?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/34640-fuel-smell-from-left-rear-wheel-well/

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/39284-fuel-smell-in-garage/

There are no visiable leaks, just smell the fuel fumes from the rear driverside...

I have a generic scanner but nothing pending nor active

Thinking at 110K may just replace the pumps and filter and be done with it?

Possible still under warranty for "emmissions"? for a 2004?

  • Admin
Posted

A generic scanner will not find fuel system venting issues or many pending codes.

Durametric or Porsche PIWIS should locate or get you much closer to the real problem without swapping out expensive parts.

Posted

The drivers side fuel tank flange is most likely cracked, the white one. I have had a few tanks leaking at the plastic welded seams but that is rare. Is not a bad idea to at least put in the drivers side pump, it runs more often than the passenger side.

Posted

I went to Dealership and got $1,800 quote to replace the pumps... Not sure if I want to pay that kind of $ for this...I looked at the PDF on how to get in, remove and replace pumps.. Doesn't look to bad but others saying a PIA to do..?

Pugstbb, when you refer to fuel tank flange, do you mean this seal ? 955-201-133-01-M100

Should I change out just the seal on the drivers side along with new fuel line connector 955-620-911-00-M100?

Again, no CEL's but intermittent longer than normal time for engine to turn over upon starting plus the raw gas smell on same side.

I do notice the longer engine turn over time happens when sitting in sun for extended period of time (heat expansion exacerbating issue)

Posted

So I understand what the flange is, I think...

as it is not explained well on most sites... The "flange" is actually built into the the fuel filter on the drivers side and the flange on the passenger side is built into the "pressure regulator" on the passengers side. These parts with the "flange" sit on top of the left and right fuel pumps..

It almost makes sense to replace everything when you need to bust open the fuel tank... Pumps, Filter/flange, Pressure regulator/flange, seals and that fuel line connector pump to filter flange and just be done with it.

?

Posted

Yes you should replace the seals on both flanges. I haven't needed to replace the pressure regulator flange. I have replaced several filter flanges and pumps. You intermittent starting problem could also be the purge valve sticking open but you would usually get a CEL.

Posted

Hi Pugs2bb,

I already replaced the purge valve recently... There was a crack on top of the filter, no cracks on the flange.. Replaced seals, filter, and pressure regulator on other side for good measure.

No more smell..

Decided to hold of on the pumps until they bite the dust... Ill probably do this myself in the future.

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