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Posted

Yes yes it sounds strange for me too. I was talking with them and they told me:

Car with a new battery which dont want to start and just make click cllick is 90 % a starter problem. They explain me that a not proper working starter is using a lot of power from the cars electric system and that should be the reason for the BATTERY WARNING SIGN in the display. When the old starter was out they connect it with a battery and made a test. Nothing. This piece didnt do anything.

For me it sounds very special but they are the specialist. So wait and see if the car is running tomorrow without problems.

As you can see, the turbo has already the alu water tubes. Many many times here people discussed the problem with broken tubes and later on with starting problems. In this way it makes sence what happend.

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Posted

You may have more than one defect here.

Changing the starter is a good move considering the symptoms you have described.

Don't be surprised if there still is another defect somewhere, but you are one step closer to finding it.

Posted

Of course! Looks like here is more knowledge than in my porsche shop. Bigbuzuki was right:

Testdrive and.... Battery Warning light came on. .... Why they never do what customers ask for. Check alternator please. Noooooo its the starter. Onother 1000 euro and for shure one more week.

Unbelievable!!!

Posted

Almost 3 weeks and no end. Jesus. Looks like they take out the engine to change the

Alternator :-)

They told me monday. I will report how this story comes to an end.

Posted

I am so sorry about . Really . I know what you guys are thinking .....

These crazy germans :-)

They built these cars but they cant repair

Posted

Update:

I am very close to loose my self control. Really.

Service person just called me.

They changed the alternator. And guess what.

Reading is still 11 volt. I cant believe it.

  • Admin
Posted

It sounds to me like you have a current draw.

Any good tech should be able to narrow down the source of the draw by putting an amp meter in series (engine off) and removing fuses until the large draw is gone. The last fuse would be the circuit with the draw.

From that point you just continue eliminating possible causes on that circuit (including poor grounds).

This is some very basic electronic/electronic troubleshooting - perhaps you should find another shop/tech.

Posted

Loren thank you, you touch the point. Thats why i am so dissapointed. They are not able to fix that problem. They ask me now what to do. Jesus !!!!

A new starter, a new alternator and still nothing.

But is it possible that a draw could be that huge to suck so much electricity that the system is shutting down? Cant believe it.

  • Moderators
Posted

Loren thank you, you touch the point. Thats why i am so dissapointed. They are not able to fix that problem. They ask me now what to do. Jesus !!!!

A new starter, a new alternator and still nothing.

But is it possible that a draw could be that huge to suck so much electricity that the system is shutting down? Cant believe it.

To Loren's point, your shop is swapping out parts at your expense hoping it will fix it, and not doing necessary diagnostics. This does not need expensive equipment, just a simple electrical multimeter capable of reading resistance and current in mA; a tool that should be in any technician's tool box. Before turning one bolt, they should have run current draw at the battery, and simple voltage drop tests, both of which take only a few min. to run and can both quickly eliminate components and isolate the issues.

Time to go elsewhere...........

Posted

JFP.... I 100 % agree.

Thats what they did with all my cars. Sorry to say, but thats reality. To be friendly and nice is not everything in this business. I will have a serious talk with them after this problem is fixed.

Thank you!

Posted (edited)

Unbelievable! When you said 11v, does it mean your voltage gauge on the dash reads 11v when the engine is running? Or you meant the battery reads 11v in the morning before you crank the car?

Edited by Ahsai
Posted

Unbelievable! When you said 11v, does it mean your voltage gauge on the dash reads 11v when the engine is running? Or you meant the battery reads 11v in the morning before you crank the car?

Hi

I dont know how they read it. I guess with a multimeter. They called me today and told me ...

Sorry there is a problem. Alternator changed but voltage is still at 11.

Thats all what they told me.

Posted

Hello everybody. Received a call again. Service person told me there is a draw in the system which they try to find. He note me that will be difficult and take time. So funny

Are they joking ? Can it take 2 days to find something like that?

Posted

I've been following you're story and can relate to this. I had an electronic gremlin in my original CTT that prevented the engine from starting amongst a few other things. I tried to troubleshoot it in a similar manner myself as I'd owned the car since new and frankly was used to tracking down solutions to strange problems. i got some feedback from this board, replaced batteries, ignition switch/module and then ended up having it towed in to a very reputable local P dealer. It took 3 weeks for them to track the issue down and get the car to start. All kinds of relays, fuses, harnesses and modules were replaced before the actual issue was resolved.

They'll find it. Best of luck to you!

Posted

Thank you. Giving me hope your experience. My car is starting. Very smooth and good after the new starter but.... The battery warning light comes up after some time. I am always thinking and try to remember if i did something what could cause this situation now.

I only can wait and see

Posted

Never ending story .....

I called the shop today. No news. They didnt find anything.

I didnt even ask what they did. I just told them to prepare

The car, i will take it at evening. So i did.

Kessy didnt work. I opend by key. Car was starting without complain.

I used this small meter to messure power.

It was showing 11.7

After engine run for some time, higher rev and battery warning sign in the display.

I played with rev a little bit and felt with higher rev the meter showed 12.5 .

Decided to risk to drive home using the highway.

During the drive and rpm between 3 and 4000 the meter showed 12.7 to 13

When i arrived home and engine off the meter went down to

11.7

Tomorrow i will try to do something to find what is going on.

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Posted

With my small knowlegde i believe this is not a problem of a drain in the system, the new alternator is producing power but the batterie is not charging. I am right?

Posted

No, your alternator is not producing enough voltage. It should be between 13.5v to 14.5v whenever the engine is running. I think you need to take the car back to them and demand they fix the alternator (again). All work from Porsche dealer should come with some warranty.

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