The New Benchmark

[NMM]

I found this split-beam wrench recommended several months ago in a GT3 forum (I gave up waiting for the GT3) - http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/item.php?StockCode=C4D600F with a range of 200 to 600 ft-lbs; probably not the same quality as a Snap-On. Available from Amazon for $320 - http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-C4D600F-Detacheable-Ratchet/dp/B000RT8ENE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1400960050&sr=1-1&keywords=C4D600F

[JFP in PA]

I found this split-beam wrench recommended several months ago in a GT3 forum (I gave up waiting for the GT3) - http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/item.php?StockCode=C4D600F with a range of 200 to 600 ft-lbs; probably not the same quality as a Snap-On. Available from Amazon for $320 - http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-C4D600F-Detacheable-Ratchet/dp/B000RT8ENE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1400960050&sr=1-1&keywords=C4D600F

For most occasional "DIY" use, Snap-On quality and price may be overkill, but in a shop you can justify owning between $5 and $10K worth of top line torque measuring devices. We use the Hell out of our equipment, and every time I have sent them back for calibration checks, they come back "no adjustment needed".

[JFP in PA]

Car is due in NEXT WEEK :-)))

Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news.................

[NMM]

I found this split-beam wrench recommended several months ago in a GT3 forum (I gave up waiting for the GT3) - http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/item.php?StockCode=C4D600F with a range of 200 to 600 ft-lbs; probably not the same quality as a Snap-On. Available from Amazon for $320 - http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-C4D600F-Detacheable-Ratchet/dp/B000RT8ENE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1400960050&sr=1-1&keywords=C4D600F

For most occasional "DIY" use, Snap-On quality and price may be overkill, but in a shop you can justify owning between $5 and $10K worth of top line torque measuring devices. We use the Hell out of our equipment, and every time I have sent them back for calibration checks, they come back "no adjustment needed".

Even though I am not a professional, all my other tools are Snap-On accumulated over 30 plus years of "playing" with my cars. If I go ahead with the torque wrench, I hope I never have to use it although I seem to have a flat from a nail or screw every 9 to 12 months which translates into 25 or 30,000 miles. I carry plugs so any tire shop car put the car on a lift and just plug it without having to demount the wheel - I've run center locks for the last 6 years, they have their downside for sure.

[Mijostyn]

Hey JFP. Suncoast sells this Wheel centering tool for center lock wheels. It costs $400. The sales pitch is that it keeps you from dropping the wheel on the brake caliper when you release the lock. Is this a significant problem or can I do without it??

Car is due in NEXT WEEK :-)))

Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news.................

Crazy doctor terrorizes neighborhood in red sports car that looks suspiciously like a Volkswagen beetle with holes in it's side. You can identify the car by the Grateful Dead sticker in the rear window. Considered armed and dangerous. :help:

Edited May 24, 2014 by Mijostyn

[JFP in PA]

Hey JFP. Suncoast sells this Wheel centering tool for center lock wheels. It costs $400. The sales pitch is that it keeps you from dropping the wheel on the brake caliper when you release the lock. Is this a significant problem or can I do without it??

Car is due in NEXT WEEK :-)))

Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news.................

Crazy doctor terrorizes neighborhood in red sports car that looks suspiciously like a Volkswagen beetle with holes in it's side. You can identify the car by the Grateful Dead sticker in the rear window. Considered armed and dangerous. :help:

Couple of people a selling them, 3R Racing ($350 list) for example. Obviously, if you are careful, you can avoid PCCB damage without one, but they do make wheel changes a lot easier for one person if you use one:

[Mijostyn]

Hey JFP. Suncoast sells this Wheel centering tool for center lock wheels. It costs $400. The sales pitch is that it keeps you from dropping the wheel on the brake caliper when you release the lock. Is this a significant problem or can I do without it??

Car is due in NEXT WEEK :-)))

Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news.................

Crazy doctor terrorizes neighborhood in red sports car that looks suspiciously like a Volkswagen beetle with holes in it's side. You can identify the car by the Grateful Dead sticker in the rear window. Considered armed and dangerous. :help:

Couple of people a selling them, 3R Racing ($350 list) for example. Obviously, if you are careful, you can avoid PCCB damage without one, but they do make wheel changes a lot easier for one person if you use one:

JFP, the Suncoast part looks like it also functions as a hub puller? http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKUGT3CL.html?Category_Code=991TurboCHASSISACC

[JFP in PA]

Hey JFP. Suncoast sells this Wheel centering tool for center lock wheels. It costs $400. The sales pitch is that it keeps you from dropping the wheel on the brake caliper when you release the lock. Is this a significant problem or can I do without it??

Car is due in NEXT WEEK :-)))

Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news.................

Crazy doctor terrorizes neighborhood in red sports car that looks suspiciously like a Volkswagen beetle with holes in it's side. You can identify the car by the Grateful Dead sticker in the rear window. Considered armed and dangerous. :help:

Couple of people a selling them, 3R Racing ($350 list) for example. Obviously, if you are careful, you can avoid PCCB damage without one, but they do make wheel changes a lot easier for one person if you use one:

JFP, the Suncoast part looks like it also functions as a hub puller? http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKUGT3CL.html?Category_Code=991TurboCHASSISACC

It just looks like a fancy alignment tool to me. I think the center bolt on the Suncoast tool is to lock it in place from the outside. The 3R tool sometimes needs an assist from a rubber strap wrench to come off, with the Suncoast tool, you would simply loosen the center bolt to get the same results:

[Mijostyn]

Hey JFP. Suncoast sells this Wheel centering tool for center lock wheels. It costs $400. The sales pitch is that it keeps you from dropping the wheel on the brake caliper when you release the lock. Is this a significant problem or can I do without it??

Car is due in NEXT WEEK :-)))

Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news.................

Crazy doctor terrorizes neighborhood in red sports car that looks suspiciously like a Volkswagen beetle with holes in it's side. You can identify the car by the Grateful Dead sticker in the rear window. Considered armed and dangerous. :help:

Couple of people a selling them, 3R Racing ($350 list) for example. Obviously, if you are careful, you can avoid PCCB damage without one, but they do make wheel changes a lot easier for one person if you use one:

JFP, the Suncoast part looks like it also functions as a hub puller? http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKUGT3CL.html?Category_Code=991TurboCHASSISACC

It just looks like a fancy alignment tool to me. I think the center bolt on the Suncoast tool is to lock it in place from the outside. The 3R tool sometimes needs an assist from a rubber strap wrench to come off, with the Suncoast tool, you would simply loosen the center bolt to get the same results:

I have such a leather strap tool so, I might as well save $50. Plus the red tool goes with the red car. Nothing like a color coordinated tool box :-)

[JFP in PA]

Tell me about it..................

[Mijostyn]

Tell me about it..................

Beautiful, neat and organized. You can work on my car (big honor). I go into shops and there is sh-t thrown all over the place which means I am OTD (out the door). I do not understand how people can work under those conditions.

JFP. Is there an easy way to convert these center lock hubs to regular bolt holes? Some sort of adapter?

[JFP in PA]

Tell me about it..................

Beautiful, neat and organized. You can work on my car (big honor). I go into shops and there is sh-t thrown all over the place which means I am OTD (out the door). I do not understand how people can work under those conditions.

JFP. Is there an easy way to convert these center lock hubs to regular bolt holes? Some sort of adapter?

I too hate messy shops, and greasy tools.

OK, correction, on your car, you will need the following:

Here is a listing and cost of the Porsche OEM parts required for the 5 lug conversion :

Front:

997-341-605-01 WHEEL HUB, 2 required, $326.80ea (Suncoast)

999-053-054-06 WHEEL BEARING, 2 required, $88.70ea (Suncoast)

Rear:

997-331-605-00 WHEEL HUB, 2 required, $ 359.32ea (Suncoast)

999-053-055-02 WHEEL BEARING, 2 required, $113.49ea (Suncoast)

Additional Parts:

Porsche Lug bolts, 20 required, $7.43ea (Suncoast)

[Mijostyn]

About $2000 if I do the work myself. Guess I'm sticking with the center lock wheels. Does any one in the after market make center lock wheels?

[JFP in PA]

About $2000 if I do the work myself. Guess I'm sticking with the center lock wheels. Does any one in the after market make center lock wheels?

Your higher end wheel makers like HRE, Champion and Forgeline do, and I am sure there are others as well.

[Mijostyn]

THE CAR LANDED YESTERDAY. I'll have some photos in a bit. It is still all covered in plastic wrap. The Interior is Killer!

Tomorrow I'll put Porsche crest decals on the front fenders and next week the entire front of the car gets covered in Xpel. Then......... :drive:

[JFP in PA]

THE CAR LANDED YESTERDAY. I'll have some photos in a bit. It is still all covered in plastic wrap. The Interior is Killer!

Tomorrow I'll put Porsche crest decals on the front fenders and next week the entire front of the car gets covered in Xpel. Then......... :drive:

Congratulations! Now try to not get too out of control......................... :eek:

[Mijostyn]

Thanx. JFP, I'm almost out of good old lead tape weights. I hate the steel ones as it is a pain to cut them into fractional segments. Have you tried the zinc ones? Can you cut through them with an angle cutter?

[JFP in PA]

Thanx. JFP, I'm almost out of good old lead tape weights. I hate the steel ones as it is a pain to cut them into fractional segments. Have you tried the zinc ones? Can you cut through them with an angle cutter?

Yes, some of them you can even trim cut with cutting pliers as is needed. Not a soft as lead, but easier to come by in this environmentally friendly world. You can also get the them pre segmented in quarter Oz. increments which makes them easier to cut:

[Mijostyn]

Thanx. JFP, I'm almost out of good old lead tape weights. I hate the steel ones as it is a pain to cut them into fractional segments. Have you tried the zinc ones? Can you cut through them with an angle cutter?

Yes, some of them you can even trim cut with cutting pliers as is needed. Not a soft as lead, but easier to come by in this environmentally friendly world. You can also get the them pre segmented in quarter Oz. increments which makes them easier to cut:

Searching the web I found out that 3M makes a continuous weight tape which is simply cut to length using a special measure. It comes in a 5 pound roll which costs about $300. That is way more expensive than than the old lead tape weights. it does look nice and clean.

I'll check the price on these zinc weights.

I put the crest decals on the car yesterday and took the car out for a spin with a dealer plate. You certainly know you are in something special. I got it up to speed on a twisty back road. In sport plus mode the car feels like it is on rails. Steering response is immediate. No lean at all. It is spooky. It is also very sedate. It just does it. If there is any emotional craziness in this car it is at insane speeds.

I can not take it above 4200 rpm or nail it for 2000 miles. Hopefully, once I can take it up in the rev range the car will become more 911ish. Once you get use to a car this powerful everything else does become......painfully slow. Right Silver_TT?

Edited June 1, 2014 by Mijostyn

[Silver_TT]

+1 to that.

Very jealous of your new toy. I live in NYC and have seen a couple of them around. They are beautiful cars. Please fill us in on the details (with pics of course) once she is broken in a little more. Congrats!

[Mijostyn]

+1 to that.

Very jealous of your new toy. I live in NYC and have seen a couple of them around. They are beautiful cars. Please fill us in on the details (with pics of course) once she is broken in a little more. Congrats!

Thanx Silver_TT. Fortunaletly, you do not have to live with my wife. it is goig to take me a while to work this one off. Hey, I'm down in the Apple all the time. My 24 year old aspiring actress daughter lives in Brooklyn. Next time I'm down you might like to give it a spin!!

[Silver_TT]

True. But no matter how many times she makes you mow the lawn, I can't see how you wind up on the losing end of that deal. Ya, let me know when you make it down. I live in the upper east side of Manhattan but you can bet your last dollar I would make the trip down to Brooklyn.

[Mijostyn]

First impressions. If the 991 Turbo doesn't have presence it is only because it is in the wrong color. This thing turns heads like crazy. My Yellow C4S turns ladies heads. This car turns everyone's heads. Believe it or not, it is a favorite with children. The Xpel film is totally amazing. When you tell people the front of the car is covered they don't believe it! The full job was $2500 and worth every sent. They don't pre cut the film for this car. They use a full sheet, wrap it around the nose and custom cut it on the car, cool.

The cabin is just as cozy as any 911. The extra width is taken up by the center console. These cars you sit down into them. Older 911s you sort of sit on top of, reaching down to the stick like in a VW bug (old one). The ergo make sense once you get use to it. I wish they put car control on the wheel like Ferrari does. Getting to the Sport, Sport plus buttons is a little..odd, forcing you to look down. The mode does come up on the wheel in the left spoke. But, if you don't know what mode your in you have to be brain dead as the difference between the modes is pretty dramatic. Regular is real lazy. You might as well be driving an Audi A4. Sport snaps the car to attention, the best mode to be in most of the time. Sport Plus is manic crazy nutter car. The revs jump, the chassis stiffens into race mode, the pedal response is lightening fast. You really can't do it until the car is broken in. 911s classically have that raspy, chain saw whine. This thing howls with a ton of burbling and backfires on lift off...FUN. The nice thing about it is that I can hear the motor at all times, even over the stereo, so I'm not always looking down at the tach. My 2001 Turbo I could not hear the motor much of the time over the stereo. I do like my music loud. My wife says I have two modes, On and Off. Anyway, the car red lines at 7200 so, there is a good 3000 rpm I have not explored yet.

Driving this car on a windy road is as much of a blast if not more than any 911, there is no substitute. Here are some pics.

Edited June 8, 2014 by Mijostyn

[Silver_TT]

Don't just leave us hanging like this.... where are the PICS??? :)

[Silver_TT]

She looks beautiful -- very sharp. Painful to stay at low RPMs (for now) :)