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Posted

I have a 2004 Cayenne Turbo with 132,000 miles. On long, high speed drives I was getting occasional errors on the instrument cluster about 4WD fault followed by PSM fault, which was occasionally followed by a total loss of power. I would pull over, restart the engine and it was fine again for another hour or 2.

This didn't seem to happen with long low speed drives, so I thought it was something to do with heat in the transfer case.

I took it to a Porsche specialist who found no fault, and no error codes, so I just bought a Durametric to try and troubleshoot the problem. I found a whole pile of error codes, that I would greatly appreciate some assistance with:

Transfer Case
Current Fault Codes

2025 Power supply - Short circuit to B+, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

1314 DME control module - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

2039 Transfer box potentiometer - Short circuit to B+, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

778 Steering-angle sensor - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

1336 CAN comfort OFF - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

1316 PSM control module - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

1317 Instrument cluster - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

1315 Tiptronic control module - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light


Bosch Digital Motor Electronics 7.1.1
Current Fault Codes

P2237 Lambda control adaptation at idle, Bank 2 - Upper limit value exceeded, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light


Porsche Keyless Entry Security System (KESSY)
Current Fault Codes

1320 Air-conditioning system regulator control module
No signal/communication

446 Function restricted due to undervoltage

Air Conditioning
Current Fault Codes

1810 Drive motor for temperature valve right

1299 Gateway
Please read out fault memory


Vehicle Electrical System
Current Fault Codes

1494 Parking light left - Short circuit to B+, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

978 Left dipped headlamp - Open circuit/short circuit to B+, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

1498 Parking light right - Short circuit to B+, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

979 Right dipped headlamp - Short circuit to B+, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

907 Load management operat. on vehicle electrical sys./DME control module - No additional fault status available, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light

1320 Air-conditioning system regulator control module - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

1520 Rain sensor/light sensor - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

2197 Potentiometer for footwell lights - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light


Steering wheel electronics
Current Fault Codes

1320 Air-conditioning system regulator control module
No signal/communication


Gateway K-line/CAN 2003-2004 Cayenne
Current Fault Codes

1320 Air-conditioning system regulator control module - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

Posted

How old is the battery will be the first question most will ask. I ask because you have many faults, some related but some not related. If it's and old battery replace it, clear the codes, then drive it and run a scan again to see what comes back.

Posted

Cycle the transfer drive servo through the low range to high range setting and see if it works.

Sorry, I am not familiar with this process. How would I do that and check the function?

The battery was replaced about 2-3 years ago.

Posted

Ignition on, gear in neutral, foot on the brake.

Toggle the Hi/low range switch on the centre console forward to get low range.

Toggle it rearwards to get back to high range.

The adjacent red LEDs should illuminate as you do this heading towards the lower range.

Posted

Ah, I am familiar with that, I thought you meant something to do with crawling under the car and checking to see if servos were moving!

Just checked, it works fine. I can hear something under the car, the dash symbols and red LED's all operate correctly. I've just cleared all the fault codes, now I'll take it for a drive and read them again.

Posted (edited)

OK, after a 40 min jaunt around, I scanned again and there was only 1 fault code:

Air Conditioning

Current Fault Codes

1810: Drive motor for temperature valve right

Nothing about the transfer case, which I expected, as the warnings did not flash up on the instrument cluster. How would I troubleshoot all these other faults further?

Edited by SpawnyWhippet
Posted

The 1810 code means motor 95562490801 is bad. $128 from Sonnen. If there was a way for us to cross reference with the VW part number I'm sure it could be found even cheaper. The worst part is the install, a real pain as the underdash really has to come apart. 1810 is Servo Motor for Right Temperature Valve (4 zone A/C). You do have 4 zone A/C right? Search or download this Porsche .pdf http://www.inkilino.es/Porsche_Cayenne_02-06/HVAC%202.pdf

  • Upvote 1
Posted

The primary reason I am posting here is to understand the problems with loss of drive when traveling at high speed, as this is very dangerous when you are doing 70mph and the car suddenly loses all forward drive. Can anyone shed any light on this based on my codes listed above?

Posted

It sounds like you have a few separate issues: fading stepper motor, ac fading, slightly loose connection on the left headlight connection (wiring harness) etc. which are all typical for a CTT of your year and miles. They all impacted mine.

But, the issue your explaining of power loss coupled with all of the significant codes the durametric pulled before lead me to similar issues I had with my CTT. The first was a dodgy steering rack, which did what you described exactly twice. The first time the car just shut down while on the freeway. I waited a few minutes and it a started up no problem, then a year later I went to start it and everything energized but the car would not start, it was a bad sensor buried in the rack that was not sending the proper signal to allow the car to start. The dealer spent days and $$$ trying to figure it out and the contacted PTEC and replaced the steering rack - issue fixed. The second is an issue that has effected MANY Touaregs and few Cayennes, it is moisture from rain and melted snow seeping through the carpet on the driver side over the years and causing significant communication problems with one of the main wiring bundles that travels under the drivers side area. This is the issue that plagued me; it had intermittent effect on Kessy, the main DME, etc. I had all of the connecters replaced (dozens). It ended up being a nightmare and the reason I parted with my first CTT, which had over 150K on it by the way....

Posted

It sounds like you have a few separate issues: fading stepper motor, ac fading, slightly loose connection on the left headlight connection (wiring harness) etc. which are all typical for a CTT of your year and miles. They all impacted mine.

But, the issue your explaining of power loss coupled with all of the significant codes the durametric pulled before lead me to similar issues I had with my CTT. The first was a dodgy steering rack, which did what you described exactly twice. The first time the car just shut down while on the freeway. I waited a few minutes and it a started up no problem, then a year later I went to start it and everything energized but the car would not start, it was a bad sensor buried in the rack that was not sending the proper signal to allow the car to start. The dealer spent days and $$$ trying to figure it out and the contacted PTEC and replaced the steering rack - issue fixed. The second is an issue that has effected MANY Touaregs and few Cayennes, it is moisture from rain and melted snow seeping through the carpet on the driver side over the years and causing significant communication problems with one of the main wiring bundles that travels under the drivers side area. This is the issue that plagued me; it had intermittent effect on Kessy, the main DME, etc. I had all of the connecters replaced (dozens). It ended up being a nightmare and the reason I parted with my first CTT, which had over 150K on it by the way....

Wow, maybe its time to sell this one... Do you know what error codes you were getting for the steering rack sensor? I have nothing like that on my Durametric, and I've seen other forum threads where people had bad electronics or connections on the transfer case. My car has always been a Norcal car and the only time it gets wet is when I wash it, so maybe I don't have those problems with the water on the connectors under the drivers seat.

Posted

Unfortunately there were no codes to be read by the Duramteric because the system wouldn't "energize" it was a bit of a nightmare. I posted about it extensively on the board in Sept or Oct 2012. When the sensor went bad it would not allow the system to progress to ignition. Interior lights worked, door looks worked, and radio worked nothing else. It literally took days worth of tech time with the Dealer and PNA to sort it out. It's an issue though that the VW Touareg guys have dealt with in some of their early high mileage cars. I believe it's simply an issue of wear and tear on the rack/sensor. The way the PNA rep explained it to me was pretty straightforward. Over time the sensor fails slowly, he said that some times you might put the key in and turn it, but the car may not start, then you pull out the key and put it back in and it starts fine. This was the case with mine.

The issue with the main wire bundle under the drivers seat is/was separate from the rack issue. You'd be shocked to see the number of leads and the number of splices and connections that are in it.... The codes you are getting PSM, TIPTRONIC, steering angle sensor, DME, multiple CAN messages those were all the same and very intermittent. The Tech actually chased the bundle under direction from PNA TECH when they were first trouble shooting the steering rack issue. We were never able to completely solve it. I had a few discussions with the PNA Tech guru (he was absolutely first rate by the way) he told me that over time just the water on your shoes can seep through the carpet and cause the problem.

By the way, I hated to get rid of the car. I swear at 158K it was as fast as the day I drove it off the lot. It's just that last year I dropped entirely too much $$$ to keep it on the road. I swear my 2013 CTT isn't as nimble.

Posted

I did a fluid change on my transfer box and found out that it had hardly any in there at all, maybe half a cup drained out. I cleaned the electrical connections and filled with new fluid and will see if that fixes it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So after all of my servicing, I am still getting these errors on long, high speed highway driving (over 2 hours). If I shut down the car and restart immediately, the errors go away, but return much quicker if the car is hot (within 10 mins). If I let the car cool down completely, they do not return until I do another long, high speed drive.

2014-03-02141853_zpsde6f5d15.jpg2014-03-02141842_zpsf08986bf.jpg

Posted

These are the only errors in my car currently:

Porsche Stability Management (PSM/ABS8)
Current Fault Codes
2053: Transfer box control module
Please read out fault memory

Vehicle Electrical System
Current Fault Codes
978: Left dipped headlamp - Open circuit/short circuit to B+, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light
907: Load management operat. on vehicle electrical sys./DME control module - No additional fault status available, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light
1320: Air-conditioning system regulator control module - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light
1520: Rain sensor/light sensor - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light
2197: Potentiometer for footwell lights - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

Trasnfercaseerror_zps849b8047.jpg

  • Admin
Posted

When I see a bunch of odd electrical faults the first thing I think of is - battery.

Have you had your battery tested for both load and specific gravity?

Posted

Thank you for this info, I am will look into it when I've sorted the problems with the PSM and 4WD faults.

The 1810 code means motor 95562490801 is bad. $128 from Sonnen. If there was a way for us to cross reference with the VW part number I'm sure it could be found even cheaper. The worst part is the install, a real pain as the underdash really has to come apart. 1810 is Servo Motor for Right Temperature Valve (4 zone A/C). You do have 4 zone A/C right? Search or download this Porsche .pdf http://www.inkilino.es/Porsche_Cayenne_02-06/HVAC%202.pdf

Posted

No, I haven't tested the battery, but it is not very old, maybe 3 years max. Would this be able to cause the errors with the PSM and 4WD, as these only occur after long high speed drives where I would expect the battery voltage to be at its peak.

The other faults regarding the lights etc don't concern me at the moment, the PSM and 4WD faults are extremely dangerous when you suddenly lose drive at 70mph on the highway.

When I see a bunch of odd electrical faults the first thing I think of is - battery.

Have you had your battery tested for both load and specific gravity?

  • Admin
Posted

Sorry, but I would take it out and have it tested.

A bad ground can also cause all sorts of weird electrical faults - best check the chassis grounds.

Posted

Sorry, but I would take it out and have it tested.

A bad ground can also cause all sorts of weird electrical faults - best check the chassis grounds.

I'll give it a go. Open to any solutions right now, this thing is driving me nuts, and both my other cars are off the road at the moment. Are the load and specific gravity tests something I can do myself, or do you need specialist equipment and skills? I have a pretty well equipped garage.

  • Admin
Posted

Autozone or any good auto parts store can test batteries, starters, and alternators - you just have to take them it.

Tell them you want a load test and specific gravity test of each cell.

Posted

The battery was load and specific gravity tested by Autozone and they said it's fine. I cleaned all the terminals and reinstalled it.

This evening, the fault occurred again after 1 hour of highway driving. I was driving at 70mph on a very busy freeway when the car lost all drive again, as if it was in neutral. The gear selector was still in Drive. I coasted through 5 lanes of fast traffic, stopped and put it into Park, but it didn't engage Park and kept rolling. There were red transfer case and parking brake errors flashing by the gear lever and on the console. I restarted the car several time with no change - I could not engage any forward, reverse or park position.

Then I tried to adjust the Diff Lock, Reduction etc and cycle back to normal. The car then allowed me to engage gears, but the ride height reset itself from Low to Normal without me touching it. I drove the last 2 miles home without problems.

I have to get this problem fixed before it kills me or my wife and some poor unsuspecting driver who smashes into me when my car suddenly drops from 70 to 40 in 2 secs for no reason.

:cursing: :censored: :wrench:

Posted (edited)

.........I coasted through 5 lanes of fast traffic, stopped and put it into Park, but it didn't engage Park and kept rolling......... I could not engage any forward, reverse or park position.

Apart from all the other issues going on with the 4 wheel drive system, selecting the transmission into Park is a mechanical function of the selector lever via a cable to the gearbox which engages a pawl into a gear inside the transmission and thereby locking it.

If you indeed selected transmission into Park and the car kept rolling, there is a mechanical failure between the tranny selector lever and the transmission.

Edited by bigbuzuki

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