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Recommended Posts

Posted

I just purchased a 2006 911 C2S. Of course it had no manuals with it. I want to get a navigation disc. Do I have to get the basic disc and update with later ones, or can I just get the latest update?

I also would like to get touch-up paint but don't know where to find the code. No maintenance manual with the car. Is there a tag anywhere else in the car?

Posted

Thanks. I did buy an Owner's Manual and PCM book on Ebay which is current for my year. Book and info ib forum hopefully will help.

Unfortunately, the tire pressure plate only shows tire pressure. I have read that in 2006 the paint label was attached to the Owner's Manual or the Maintenance Manual. Unless it is hidden somewhere else, I think my best bet is to have a Porsche dealer help me with identifying the paint code.

Posted

It sure is. Porsche's touch up paint is great, the best. If you need help doing a totally invisible repair holler. By the way, for anyone interested ALL the after market stuff like Dr Color Chip, is absolute crap. For fun I have tried all the major players. Only with Porsche's paint can I get an absolutely invisible repair.

Posted

Mijostyn,

Although this has moved away from the topic, what is your best method of applying the touch up paint. I've actually used toothpicks before. After touch up, do you polish, color sand or?

Thanks,

Posted (edited)

Ok kid, you asked for it. The question included touch up paint. So, I do not think this is way out of line.

I use very fine ball tipped applicators I get from Griot's. I think Autogeeks has them also. The car must be stone cold and in the shade, preferably your garage. Clean the damaged area with lacquer thinner. Shake the paint well and stir it gently with the cap's brush. Get a generous drop of paint on the applicator and apply it to the chip twisting the applicator slowly. What you are trying to do is make sure there are no air bubbles in the paint. If there are the repair will look pitted after you rub it out. Relax, if you do not like your work you can always remove the paint with lacquer thinner and start fresh. Let the paint dry for one hour then add another coat. Do it once more for a total of three coats. The paint shrinks as it drys and you have to make sure the repair is above the surface of the car's paint. Now let the paint cure for ONE WEEK and no less. Patience is a virtue. Do not worry at all about how the repair looks at this stage. Next lay two parallel strips of masking tape right on either side of the repair. Using Meguiar's #34 as a lubricant wet sand the repair down to the level of the masking tape with a 1500 grit Meguiar's sanding block. Remove the tape and gently bring the repair down to flush with a 2000 grit Meguiar's sanding block. Go gently but do not worry about scuffing the surrounding paint. It will rub right out. You are done when you can not feel the repair when you gently run your finger tip over it. Keep the area wetted with 34 while you work.

There are a zillion ways to rub out car paint. Once you are use to certain compounds, pads and machines, and you get the job done to your satifaction, DON'T CHANGE. I rub the repair out using a Cyclo. (Auto geeks) first using Menzerna PF 2500 on blue pads followed by Menzerna SF 4500 on white pads. I have used both 3M and Meguiar's compounds and I think Menzerna is superior to both USING A CYCLO. The Cyclo is a very gentle machine. The story might be very different with an 8" rotary buffer a very aggressive machine.

Seal or wax the area and have a fine time trying to find your repair. I have repaired keyed cars with excellent results using this method.

Practice on a less cherished car first. Once you have this down the occasional chip is no big deal. I scan the Porsche for chips every time I wash it. I fill them immediately and once I have five or more to rub out, and the time, I do the job. You can let the paint cure indefinitely before your rub out the repair. You can even do door edges this way. The only twist is wet sanding on a concave surface such as the rear fender of a 911 right below the c- pillar. The trick is to take Meguiar's sanding blocks and shape them convex. Just wet your counter top and lay a sheet of 200 grit wet or dry paper down. The water will adhere the paper to the countertop. Now rub the sanding block on the paper rocking it from side to side giving it a slight radius. The abrasive in the blocks goes all the way through. You can shape them any way you want. Once you are finished rinse and rub the block well to get any 200 grit abrasive off :-)

Edited by Mijostyn
  • 3 weeks later...

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