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Posted

Those Durametric numbers look fine. However, if the DME has been reset recently, 10 min may not be enough to get a steady state values. The best is to drive the car for a while say half a day then re-measure everything. Also the MAF reading of 20 kg/hr sounds high at 700 rpm. I think it should be around 15-18kg/hr.

After I got to op temp, MAF sticks between 17.8 to 18.6 on 700RPMs.

Posted

You should be able to pinpoint the location of the noise better if you use a long screwdriver or a stethoscope with a metal rod attached at the business end. Just poke around the bank 2 cam cover and see if you can pinpoint the noise to a cylinder. I would monitor the misfire counters on all cylinder during the test drive.

It may be just a bled down lifter.

  • Upvote 1
Posted

Those Durametric numbers look fine. However, if the DME has been reset recently, 10 min may not be enough to get a steady state values. The best is to drive the car for a while say half a day then re-measure everything. Also the MAF reading of 20 kg/hr sounds high at 700 rpm. I think it should be around 15-18kg/hr.

After I got to op temp, MAF sticks between 17.8 to 18.6 on 700RPMs.

Makes sense. I missed that you said the yellow rolls are when the engine was just started.
Posted

Gentlemen, we are go! :thumbup:

Made some adjustments and started my engine again. Everything worked beautifully right from the start, knock was completely gone. Took a nice short test drive. Leak down test 100 / 95+ PSI per each cylinder and I did not even trouble to find TDC exactly which is important to get best values. Engine sound really good and identical for both banks. Durametric values looked good. Poking upper and lower head parts with stethoscope produced smooth sounds, just like it should.

I did the following since my last run:

1. retightened my exhaust parts

- I do not believe knock was caused by this. However, my cats were quite loose from the chassis and these vibrated quite a bit last time

2. Added more oil

- last time after I shut down my engine, I was on the lower end of my stick, only one bar on cockpit

Last time even my bank 1 knocked just a bit, now both banks sound smooth. I believe that my camshaft parts simply did not get enough oil.

In any case, all this cleaning job produced good results. After each cleanup, engine sounded always better. Too bad that my previous run was plagued by low oil volume.

What a way to start 5 week summer vacation :cheers:

  • Moderators
Posted

Gentlemen, we are go! :thumbup:

Made some adjustments and started my engine again. Everything worked beautifully right from the start, knock was completely gone. Took a nice short test drive. Leak down test 100 / 95+ PSI per each cylinder and I did not even trouble to find TDC exactly which is important to get best values. Engine sound really good and identical for both banks. Durametric values looked good. Poking upper and lower head parts with stethoscope produced smooth sounds, just like it should.

I did the following since my last run:

1. retightened my exhaust parts

- I do not believe knock was caused by this. However, my cats were quite loose from the chassis and these vibrated quite a bit last time

2. Added more oil

- last time after I shut down my engine, I was on the lower end of my stick, only one bar on cockpit

Last time even my bank 1 knocked just a bit, now both banks sound smooth. I believe that my camshaft parts simply did not get enough oil.

In any case, all this cleaning job produced good results. After each cleanup, engine sounded always better. Too bad that my previous run was plagued by low oil volume.

What a way to start 5 week summer vacation :cheers:

Glad to hear it is finally coming together for you! :thumbup:

Posted

Thanks John!

Shared a quick video of my last run:

I'll add some more images later regarding my paper journey :jump:

  • Moderators
Posted

Thanks John!

Shared a quick video of my last run:

I'll add some more images later regarding my paper journey :jump:

Sounds completely normal.

  • Upvote 1

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