airlift tool info

[pgboxters]

when you draw down the vacuum on say a boxster s would a small compessor 3 gal compressor be fine would it need to be running or just charged.

Is there a proceedure or steps for the boxster anywhere? thanks Im considering a purchase of an airlift 2 economy.

Edited November 21, 2013 by pgboxters

[JFP in PA]

when you draw down the vacuum on say a boxster s would a small compessor 3 gal compressor be fine would it need to be running or just charged.

Is there a proceedure or steps for the boxster anywhere? thanks Im considering a purchase of an airlift 2 economy.

Your question is a little open ended; if your compressor can reach and maintain 90 PSIG, you should be fine. Smaller compressors often take more time for the system to reach 25 inches of vacuum or better, but if they can put out the required pressure, you should be fine.

[kbrandsma]

I would recommend three gallons or higher. I have a smaller compressor and it can't maintain 90+ PSIG and it takes me 4 or five pump runs in order to get the pressure to 22+ inches of vacuum. I can get there but it takes a while. A larger compressor would be preferred.

KBrandsma

Edited November 22, 2013 by kbrandsma

[KevinH90]

I just did this on Sunday and I agree with Karst. I have a 3 gallon Central Pneumatic brand compressor from Harbor Freight. It could just barely get to 90 psi even though the gauge on the tank reads 110. If you don't already have a compressor, I recommend that you buy something with a little more macho than what I have..

[pgboxters]

Update>my small compressor worked great set at 90psi. But i dont think i had any air when i pulled the vac it filled up to top and i couldnt add any. if i top it off it just leaks out the overflow anyway when the engine is warm it goes into the normal operating range.when cold its maybe allitle below the lower mark.

[kbrandsma]

Update>my small compressor worked great set at 90psi. But i dont think i had any air when i pulled the vac it filled up to top and i couldnt add any. if i top it off it just leaks out the overflow anyway when the engine is warm it goes into the normal operating range.when cold its maybe allitle below the lower mark.

Sounds like you were able to get enough PSIG and maintain it long enough to get a good vacuum to refill. I would still open up the bleed valve and run a few drive cycles up to temperature. Keep topping off with coolant as needed or if needed.

Nice Job!!!

:thumbup:

KBrandsma

Edited January 16, 2014 by kbrandsma

[tolum]

I have another question about that process. As a preventive process, I will replace my water pump & thermostat using a lower temperature thermostat at Spring time. I have the Airlift 550000 and a 5 gal. compressor. My question is, do I need to drain ALL coolant from the car or I can just pick up the coolant that will fall from the water pump & thermostat housing, replace those pars, do a vacuum and put back the coolant that falls in the plastic pail?

Tks!

Thierry

[JFP in PA]

I have another question about that process. As a preventive process, I will replace my water pump & thermostat using a lower temperature thermostat at Spring time. I have the Airlift 550000 and a 5 gal. compressor. My question is, do I need to drain ALL coolant from the car or I can just pick up the coolant that will fall from the water pump & thermostat housing, replace those pars, do a vacuum and put back the coolant that falls in the plastic pail?

Tks!

Thierry

Unless the coolant in the car is fresh, drain it all and renew it. While Porsche describes their coolant as "lifetime", 4-5 years is more like it. Mix the fresh coolant with distilled water only.

[tolum]

I'll do so it means I'll have to remove the coolant drain plug and will have to unplug ALL rubber hoses including the radiators to let the coolant drains? There is no way to remove only the coolant drain plug and pressurise the coolant circuit with air so that all coolant escapes the system by the drain plug?

[JFP in PA]

I'll do so it means I'll have to remove the coolant drain plug and will have to unplug ALL rubber hoses including the radiators to let the coolant drains? There is no way to remove only the coolant drain plug and pressurise the coolant circuit with air so that all coolant escapes the system by the drain plug?

No, I regularly caution against pressurizing the cooling system with compressed air; too great a chance for someone to over pressure the system and do some damage.. Pull the small drain plug and then disconnect the hoses at the engine that go forward to the radiators. Best case, you are going to only get about 80-85% of the old coolant out because of the way the system is set up; it simply won't all drain out. Some like to flush the system with clear water, but that only ends up trapping some of the water in the system instead of coolant mix, and unless you use distilled water for the flush, that works against you as tap water degrades the coolant over time. If you open the system up before you replace the pump and thermostat, you will have gotten about all you can out of the system.

[tolum]

Thanks a lot, will do. Now let's order pump, low temp thermostat and Porsche coulant.

Thierry

Edited January 16, 2014 by tolum

[JFP in PA]

Thanks a lot, will do. Now let's order pump, low temp thermostat and Porsche coulant.

Thierry

And don't forget the distilled water.....................

[tolum]

...and the coolant plug crush washer...

[JFP in PA]

...and the coolant plug crush washer...

Always a good idea, as is a small dab of anti seize on the plug threads when you put it back.