Window drop passenger side

[av8sky]

I know this topic has been discussed and I have read the different posts and Richard Hamiliton's excellent DIY explaining all the different microswitches. I believe my problem is that I need a new door lock assembly pn 381-837-016p. I am going to give all the facts in bullet points because I am a horrible writer. Please share your opinion as to what you think might be wrong. I think it is the up/down microswitch not working properly that is talked about in the microswitch DIY. Thank you in advance for your help.

- 2003 996 C2 cabriolet 52K miles I bought it almost 2 years ago

- Passenger side window does not droop when door opens it makes a noise and comes down a 1-2 mm if at all. It makes the noise like the motor is trying to drop the window.

- The window leaks sometimes and my seat leather is damaged and was already damaged when I bought it.

- The window appears to be lower than it should be like it never goes up all the way. I compared the Sekurit label on each window and passenger side is definitely lower by a 1/4". I can't say that comparing the 2 that way is accurate.

- I can't push the window up or down anymore (I don't think that it is the regulator because of this)

- The puzzling part is the glass does not hit the Cabriolet frame. It comes close but it misses.

- I tried recalibrating the windows and that did nothing.

[GOB]

I had an issue with the window not properly going up and down and the result was the door lock mechanism. Lesson learned: make SURE to plug in ALL THE WAY the plugs to it, otherwise, you will still have the same behavior!

[1schoir]

Since you are hearing the electric motor and the window may be dropping 1 or 2 mm, all of the symptoms that you describe still point to the window regulator (except for the fact that you are not able to manually push the window up or down AT ALL).

I just went through the same problem with my Boxster's passenger window and I suspected the window regulator. It turned out to be a very small plastic part of the window regulator, which in my experience is the problem 90% of the time.

You can more accurately diagnose this if you remove the door panel and observe the inside of the door and the two criss-cross sections of the window regulator. Once you have the door panel off, with the door open, trip the door latch mechanism in the side of the door with a screwdriver (to simulate a closed door). Then, pull up slightly on the door handle while looking at the inside of the door. If the electric motor makes a noise and you see the cables FLEXING, it's most likely the most common fault (i.e., the window regulator).

The flexing shows you that the inner metal cable is traveling but not having the desired effect of dropping the window the normal 3/8 to 1/2 inch. To rectify the situation you have to either replace the window regulator or install a device to take up the slack. Taking up the slack produces the desired effect where as soon as the electric motor turns the cable acts on the window, causing the drop. If you repair it, you will notice that the cables don't flex nearly as much, showing only a very slight flexing movement.

I repaired my window regulator for exactly $1.00 by installing a bicycle brake adjuster in line at the base of the front window regulator leg, next to/on top of the small green plastic bushing. I can't take credit for that repair as a poster on 986forum came up with the rather ingenious (and cost effective :lightbulb: ) solution.

If you open the door panel and find you cable flexing as I described and you want to try the bicycle brake adjuster fix, let us know and I will write-up more details for an easy DIY.

Regards, Maurice.

[av8sky]

Thank you Maurice. I was trying to avoid removing the door panel to diagnose the problem. This is also a good excuse to buy a durametric since the airbag light will illuminate when I operate the the window without the airbag in place. I read that bike brake adjuster fix and it was pure genius. I am curious if a previous owner may have adjusted the window so it wouldn't hit. I will post when I have it fixed. It is primetime top down Porsche driving weather here in Texas so I am going to wait for a cold or rainy day to fix it.

[1schoir]

I forgot to mention that after you diagnose and fix the possible problem, there is a method to adjust the position of the window when it is completely up. The final position can be adjusted up, down and inboard or outboard by means of a torx-head adjusting screw which can be accessed from one of the holes under the door (up, down and tilting adjustment) and by the bolts anchoring the window regulator legs to the bottom of the door (inboard outboard adjustment).

These adjustments can be made without removing the door panel but, since you have to remove your door panel, you can look at those adjusting points to get familiar with them for later adjustment, if necessary. If you do a search here, you will find some posts and photos that I posted for these adjustments about three years ago or so.

Regards, Maurice.

[Richard Hamilton]

I agree with Maurice. Most likely the window regulator from your description.

[1schoir]

Here is what the $1.00 fix looks like, at the base of the front leg of the window regulator:

If you slice the bicycle brake adjuster and its nut longitudinally as you see in the photo, you can just slip it in place over the cable without having to disassemble anything. The sliced part of the nut is 180 degrees opposed to the slice on the adjuster tube (so you can't see it in this photo).

Thanks to DaveS of 986forum, I have to say this was one of the most satisfying repairs I've ever done on the Boxster.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited October 11, 2013 by 1schoir

[fpb111]

You shouldn't even have to "slice" the adjuster. They come with a slot already in the nut and barrel.

[1schoir]

That would have doubled the cost of the repair! :lol:

Regards, Maurice.

[av8sky]

Can you really put a price on not injuring yourself trying to cut something that small? :D Thank you fpb111 for the pic. It is always easier to get what you want when you have a pic!

[1schoir]

Not that dangerous with a dremel abrasive disc and this:

:eek:

Regards, Maurice.

[jay04v6]

Hi All- I am intrigued by the bicycle cable adjustor, but I am unsure if it applies to my issue.  When I lift the latch the window drops.  when I release the latch the window goes up and the door clunks and won't shut.  This is inconsistent   when this happens and I push open the door again, (now I'm seated on the inside of the car), everything works properly and door closes correctly.

 

Do you think this is the slack the cable fix can handle or am I having a microswitch issue.  Outside door microswitch?

[Ahsai]

"when I release the latch the window goes up and the door clunks and won't shut. " <- That is in indication the external microswitch on the door latch is bad, a very common problem.

You will need to remove the door latch to address that. See post #43 of this thread here.

Also this thread.

[jay04v6]

thanks much  save me hours of searching.  I'm on it and time to take the door apart

 

[1schoir]

If your issue was one of a stretched cable or a missing/broken piece of the plastic bushing part of the window regulator, the window would NOT drop down the 1/2 inch under any circumstance.  Your issue is elsewhere, most probably as described by Ahsai.

[Ahsai]

Also check out this excellent article by Richard Hamilton. It explains how every works, which will give you more confidence of a correct diagnosis.

 

https://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/217-door-microswitches/