Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

Had a quick look underneath, am I missing something? The only way to access the bolt on the drop link is to take the strutt out ? :eek:

KLA_996.001-2.jpg

  • Moderators
Posted

Not necessary, there is a nut fixedly welded allong the inner side of the damper bracket, at least with an genuine drop link which is clearly not yours.

  • 8 years later...
Posted

Same question as original post. Have already replaced front links and front and rear bushings, pretty straightforward. The top link bolt is threaded into the OE shock with a stud that is welded to the OE shock. Bottom bolt is easy but my question is: Do I need to unbolt and drop the bottom of the shock in order to have clearance to 'spin' the top of the new link? I assume it would damage the new link to thread it into the stud by turning the bolt into the stud. Many videos available for replacing the fronts but not one found on replacing the rears.

Posted

OK, thought I'd reply to my own post re Porsche 996 C2 rear sway bar (drop) links. Was able to replace the links without the OE shock removal.  It would have been much easier to replace them when also replacing the rear shocks by having the OE shocks ( Bilstein) on the bench or purchasing aftermarket replacement shocks with a different design of link attachment. Very helpful to have a thin box wrench tighten the stud to the shock and also to purchase links that have 4 sided wrench fittings. The Meyle links had only 2 sided wrench slots which made tightening much more time consuming for the top bolts. 

996 C2 rear link.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.