Physical removal of water pump once unbolted, etc.?

[dammad]

I've followed the excellent guide to remove the water pump on my '99 996 tip, but am now stuck with a problem. How to physically get the old pump out? Should I remove it with some manipulation from the bottom or from the top?

From the bottom I don't seem to have a large enough gap between the two items highlighted in red in the attachment.

From the top the belt tensioner seems to be in the way and the engine carrier swings from the bottom not the top so it is narrower.

I must be being slow on a sunday morning, but what am I missing?

[alw911@ashburnva.net]

To make room, remove the thermostat hose and shimmy it to the left and down. See the following DIY tutorial.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/49-water-pump-replacement/

[fpb111]

or remove the idler and pull it from the top

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/767121-water-pump-replacement-tip.html

Edited July 28, 2013 by fpb111

[Uwon]

dammad, you may also want to look at:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43715-clutch-aos-water-pump-thermostat-diy-questions/page-4?hl=uwon

post #74 (page 4).

Good Luck.

[dammad]

Well I removed the second hose that goes up to the top of the engine (thermostat) but still no go? I've shimmied and shimmied it but seems 1/4" too wide due to the hard line that appears to run from the large coolant pipe towards the tiptronic. Is the gap smaller because mine's a tiptronic? Tempted to try from the top but the gap to the engine carrier is limited at the top.

Uwon: haven't tried your tip yet.. the problem is width-wise for me..

Edited July 29, 2013 by dammad

[JFP in PA]

Well I removed the second hose that goes up to the top of the engine (thermostat) but still no go? I've shimmied and shimmied it but seems 1/4" too wide due to the hard line that appears to run from the large coolant pipe towards the tiptronic. Is the gap smaller because mine's a tiptronic? Tempted to try from the top but the gap to the engine carrier is limited at the top.

Uwon: haven't tried your tip yet.. the problem is width-wise for me..

Are you absolutely sure you have all seven bolts out if it? These usually do not put up much resistance unless someone has used sealer on them (which you should never do).

[dammad]

Yes all the bolts are clear out, I can manipulate it in most orientations. I'm fiddled with it a lot but no go.. Just can't get it out!! I assume '99 tips are just a bit different..

:cursing: :cursing:

[dammad]

Looks like I'm going to have to remove the thermostat housing to get this thing out. Any recommendations for how to get to the two bolt heads that feel pretty inaccessible due to the exhaust manifold?

Man, this water pump is providing to be much more of a pain than I imagined. Sorry for the continued questions.

:help:

Edited July 30, 2013 by dammad

[alw911@ashburnva.net]

Is the water pump just free floating and no longer physically attached to the engine case and or gasket?

Did you loosen the engine carrier bracket and shift it away from the engine?

Also did you unbolt the metal lines from the side of the oil pan and shift them out of the way?

I was able to replace my water pump, do a complete coolant drain and refill with an airlift in less than 3 hours.

[dammad]

yes free floating and yes carrier bracket is moved away from the engine. I've removed the bolts of the metal lines that go down the side of the oil pan but the metal line doesn't move that much because it is trapped between the water pump and thermostat housing. So it looks like I'll need to remove the thermostat housing to get that to move more and get it out.

[dammad]

Yay!!! Thermostat housing removed and it came out.. Many thanks for all your help. Since I've got the thermostat out I think I'll replace that too since I've 140,000 on the car already.

[alw911@ashburnva.net]

Here is a trick I used to remove the thermostat from the housing....

Go to home depot and buy a 90 degree PVC pipe elbow (or look or a piece laying around) that fits over the top of the thermostat

cut two notches on the pvc elbow so that it can push on the thermostat tabs and rotate to release the thermostat from the housing.

The PVC I had laying around in the garage was 1 1/2 inch (I did not measure it). To make the notch, I just attacked it with the bench grinder. Sure file will do also. Notch only needs to be 1/8 inch deep and about 1/2 inch wide.

Here is a pic

Edited July 30, 2013 by alw911@ashburnva.net