Litronic retrofit question

[KevinH90]

So, I will need to tap into the gray wire at some point after it comes through the firewall.  There is are two gray/black wires on the connector pictured in post 47, but I'm assuming those won't do the job.  

 

I cannot find any information that explains why the speed input is needed.  I wonder whether you would notice a difference if you drove a factory litronic-equipped car back-to-back with your car.  Since you seem to be living happily without it, I will ignore it.  I can confirm that the harness I have (removed from a car with factory litronics) has a orange/blue wire in pin 9, gray wire in pin 10 and a white/brown wire in pin 11.

 

My test plan is to leave my litronics and ecu in the car and hook up the sensors temporarily.  I will then vary the relative positions of the two sensors. That way I will be able to see what happens when (1) the front sensor is higher; (2) the rear sensor is higher; and (3) when the sensors are level.  I should also be able to observe the start up routine.

 

Regarding the washers - I don't have the parts.  I need to start planning and budgeting time and money for a top (or as you might say hood) replacement.  I normally plan my projects carefully, but the litronic upgrade was done on impulse when I spotted someone selling a damaged pair for a good price.  One thing has led to another on this project, but I have limited time and I need to put it to good use.  You can read about my litronic project here:  http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/54697-advice-used-litronics.html

 

Cheers

[KevinH90]

Duffy,

 

I received my sensors.  It appears that the smaller assembly goes on the front cross member and the larger one on the rear.

 

Right now I'm waiting for the delivery of a pin-removal tool before I start installing my kit.  I have reviewed all of the information that you provided, but I have a few remaining questions:

 

What size hole did you drill to mount the sensor to the front cross member? 

How did you determine exactly where to drill that hole?

Do you have any pictures of the installation on the rear cross member?

How did you run the wires from the sensors into the front trunk?

 

If you are willing to send me a PM with your e-mail address, I would like to send you a document that I prepared showing the installation procedure.  I would appreciate your corrections and additions.  When I am finished with my work, I plan to post it in the DIY section to make it available to other members.

 

Regards,

[Duffy3074]

1. One big enough for the bolt but only barely!

2. I just put it in the middle of the dimple that Porsche use for this (look at the pictures you've taken from my thread, you can see it! :) )

3. I don't think so but there are only 2 big bolts that go through the black crossmember into the aluminium sub frame that goes over the driveshaft on that side, it mounts on here (put the arm onto the coffin arm mount and you'll see where it sits easily enough)

4. I took the wires up to join the wiring at the back of the left headlamp and joined it into the loom there with the feeds to that headlamp and into the shell through the large grommet that this all runs through. A metal coathanger, gaffer tape and silicon spray are your friends when it comes to getting the new wires through without cutting the grommett. 

Edited February 22, 2015 by Duffy3074

[KevinH90]

Thanks Duffy.  I have attached an Adobe portable document file (pdf) with all of the information I collected from you and a few other sources.  Please let me know if you see any mistakes.  I'll be testing these instructions and taking some photos while I'm working.  I plan to update the document in a couple of weeks and ultimately post them in the DIY area.  I'm hoping that someone else can add information about connecting to the diagnostic port and the purpose of the speed sensor connection. 

 

Because I already installed the retrofit kit that rotates the high beams, I need to remove some connectors from the car so that I can sell the retrofit components on to someone else who might need them.  I don't like to waste things.  I ordered an electrical pin removal tool for this purpose, and it won't arrive until mid week.

 

By the way I want to make sure that nothing is lost in translation between two people divided by a common language.  You refer to yourself as a "thick bar steward" in one of your Boxa.net posts.  That is not an expression I'm familiar with.  I did find "wobble" in a UK English dictionary and of course "WTF" is a universally recognized term among people who work on their cars.

 

Again, thanks for all your help.

Litronic Retrofit with Automatic Dynamic Headlight Beam Adjustment.pdf

Edited February 25, 2015 by KevinH90

[Duffy3074]

Lol

 

Thick bar steward is a self deprecating euphimism in this context. The thick part infers that, on this occasion, I was being a bit stupid, the bar steward is the euphimism relating to me perhaps being fatherless at this point ;)

 

I'll try and proof read what you've done over the next couple of days.

 

:)

[KevinH90]

I updated the DIY file slightly, so you may want to check the updated version. I had the pin assignments on the litronic headlight control plugs (the ones that fit in the back of the headlight) reversed.  I had the wires meant for the left going to the right headlight and vice versa.  I'm not sure it makes a big difference, but it's better not to leave a possibility for error.

 

Thanks for the clarification on "thick bar steward", 

[KevinH90]

Duffy,

 

I ran into something I didn't expect.  I had previously installed the retrofit wiring and I had assumed that pins 9, through 14 and 17 would be empty.  It turns out that only pins 9 (diagnostic) and 11 (Engine Speed Output) are empty.  The others do have the wires installed and they are the correct colors.

 

However, the gray wire in pin 10 is jumped the red/black power wire in pin 16. Also, I cannot find a gray wire to tap into in any of the wiring bundles.

 

I'm wondering what harm would occur if I just left the gray wire jumped to the red/black wire.  It seems that the system would then always be on when the car was on and the headlights would be constantly adjusting.  However, that would make installation much easier since I cannot seem to locate the gray wire.  

 

Can you either give me some clues as to the location of the gray wire or comment on the issue of leaving the system on all the time.

 

I have attached some pictures of the connector and the wire bundles nearby in the hope that that will help you point me in the right direction.

 

Thanks

[Duffy3074]

Bear in mind that you are using a factory 'behind the dash' install and loom to do a retrofit (inside the boot) ergo some of the wiring is going to be different, again don't overthink it. 

 

You need to plumb in both sensors and light clusters. 

 

You need an earth

 

You need a switched 12V (taken from the feed to the heated washers is the factory approved way of doing it)

 

You need two signal feeds from the light cluster (taken from the wiring right next to the mounting position for the ECU) one to tell the ECU that the lights have been switched on (the feed to the low beam) and one to tell it that full beam has been selected, so they rotate up. 

 

I don't have access to a wiring diagram at the moment (it's Saturday night and I'm doing family stuff) but that's all you need, nothing more nothing less, it will work with this.

 

I'll check for a diagram tomorrow and feed back more then.  

[Duffy3074]

Ok pins are as follows from my install using an original fit ECU and loom/.

Pins 1-4 are for the left hand headlamp AHVAC (follow the colour codes)

Pins 5-8 are for the right hand headlamp AHVAC (As above)

Pin 18 - earth (Brown)

Pin 15 - signal on high beam (white)

Pin 10 - signal on light (Grey)

Pin 13 - rear sensor signal return (blue)

Pin 12 - front sensor signal return (blue)

Pin 14 - +5V supply to both sensors (both red/white - doesn't matter which goes to which)

Pin 16 - switched 12V (Black/red)

Pin 17 - earth for both sensors. (Brown/black)

 

These are all you need for the system to work properly. The pin 10 to pin 16 jumper essentially provides a switched 12v and should work, however I followed the OEM approved retrofit way with tapping into the heated washer jet +12V for that. 

 

I would go with what is there, leave the jumper in place and see if it works as it should. 

[KevinH90]

I hooked it up and it all works with the gray wire jumped to the red/black wire.  When I turn the headlight switch on and then turn the ignition on, the lights go through the self-leveling routine.  I can experiment with the relative heights of the sensors (they aren't installed on the car) and the beams will adjust.  Also, the high beam rotation works if the beams are in the low position and I flip the high beams on.

 

However, the system is always on.  If I leave the lights off and turn the ignition on, I can hear the lights go through their self-leveling routine.  That seems to tell me that if I leave it this way, the lights will be adjusting whenever the car is on.   That seems like it will cause extra wear on the components in the system.

 

I think that I need to either run a jumper all the way to the gray wire on the ignition switch or find something else that will trigger the system only when the headlights are on.  As I mentioned in post 47 above, there is a yellow/white wire that seems like it would be energized when the low beams are on.  I need to do some research and make sure that powering the gray wire from the yellow/white wire will not cause any other problems.  

 

I think I need to check the amperage that the red/black wire  (the one to which the gray wire is currently connected) is carrying and then compare that to the yellow/white.  If they are connected to the same size fuse I think I will be OK.

Edited March 1, 2015 by KevinH90

[Duffy3074]

If you read my post you'll see how Porsche do it.....

Switched live from the heated washers!!!!!!!

On signal from the headlamps!!!!!!!

No need to go to the ignition switch, no need to muck about with fuses!

It's a simple system, don't overthink it.

Well done for persevering.

:)

[KevinH90]

I won't have a chance to finish the work until next weekend.  The weather forecast is for snow later in the week, so I'm leaving the "frunk" disassembled and driving my other car.

 

Right now, my plan is to tap into the yellow wire for the on signal to the headlamps and start soldering my wire harnesses (or looms) in a few spare hours after work this week.  I previously thought that the yellow/white wire was a good on signal, but on further review the yellow/white wire powers the fog lamps.  

 

I did some more tinkering tonight, but I couldn't get the lights to adjust up and down again by changing the relative height of the sensors.  I suspect that some of my temporary wiring may have worked itself loose.

 

I have attached updated DIY Instructions.

Litronic Retrofit with Automatic Dynamic Headlight Beam Adjustment.pdf

Edited March 4, 2015 by KevinH90

[Duffy3074]

I found there was a narrow range on the sensors where the headlamps responded, this was a small range either side of where 'level' would be when they were positioned on the car.  

 

Anything out with that obviously didn't make sense to the litronic ECU and there was no response. 

[KevinH90]

Thanks

 

I tried to install the sensors last weekend and couldn't figure out how to install the rear sensors.  I'm working with the car on jack stands (axle stands in the UK) and that may be causing access problems.

 

I took it to my mechanic who put it up on a lift.  He thinks that we need to remove the rear brake caliper and perhaps some other parts to get the sensor in.  He wants 6 hours of labor for the job, and that is a little more than I want to spend.  I'm planning to look at it again this weekend and see if I can figure out an installation process.  The front looks less complicated.

 

It looks like you were working on several other projects when you installed your sensors, so perhaps you had more components off the car when you did your installation.

 

I'll continue to persevere, but any hints would again be appreciated.

[Duffy3074]

Sorry no you don't need to do any of that. 

 

It's literally one bolt and a push on clip to the arm, it's very straightforward to do. 

 

It bolts onto this (on either the upper or lower bolt on the left hand side of this crossmember  that hold the black section onto the alloy section on the car - sorry can't remember which but it was obvious enough when I did it), the plastic section just pushes straight into the arm and the plastic pin is pushed through to spread the lugs and job done

 

[KevinH90]

Well, I feel like something of a "thick bar steward" even though I'm not exactly sure what that is.

 

I put the car up on a set of ramps so that I could look at the mounting point from directly below.  After looking at the mounting point and studying the diagrams that I added to the instructions, I finally determined the problem.  The mounting bracket I had was from a 996 not a 986. 

 

As we all know, many parts are used on both a Boxster and a Carrera and the cars are almost identical from the doors forward.  For example the mounting bracket for the front litronic leveling sensor is identical on both cars.  However, the rear bracket is different as the attached pictures show.  The bracket for the Boxster is part number 986 331 611 03.  The Carrera part is 996 355 503 04. 

 

The person who sold the brackets and sensors to me advertised them as fitting both the Boxster and Carrera.  I should have double checked instead of blindly marching forward.  Fortunately, the gentleman who sold me the connectors and other bits of wiring included the mounting brackets as part of the deal.  So, I had the 986 part readily available.  After swapping the sensor to the 986 bracket, it fit perfectly.  (It attaches to the upper bolt on the assembly that Duffy  included in the immediately preceding post.  Just unfasten the 15 mm bolt, fit the bracket, reinstall the bolt and tighten it.)  I put a couple of zip ties around the plastic push in arm to make sure it didn't move.

 

I ran the wire harness (or loom) from the back sensor to the front of the car.   I used zip ties to keep it away from anything that might rub against it.  I still need to install the front sensor and then run the wires up behind the headlight.  I have some family obligations on Saturday, but I'm hoping to finish this project by the end of the weekend.

Edited March 14, 2015 by KevinH90

[Duffy3074]

Well done

 

:)

[KevinH90]

I finished the installation except for reinstalling the amplifier, spare tire, tools and carpets in the the front trunk.  I took the car out for a drive and unfortunately I'm not sure that the dynamic adjustment function is working.  If it is, it is a subtle effect.

 

This is how the system operates:

 

When I turn the car on with the low beams on, the lights dip and then reach a level position.  When I turn on the high beams, the low beams rotate up.

 

Here's what makes me think something may be wrong:

 

The route I picked for tonight's drive included some roads with hills.  I was expecting the lights to rotate up slightly when I went down a hill and rotate down slightly when I went up a hill.  I didn't see much of a change. 

 

When I was testing the sensors before I put them on the car, it appeared that moving them did cause the lights to rotate.  When I hooked them up to the car, before installing them on the suspension, the self test would work, but it would leave the lights rotated up instead of level.  So, I believe all of my components work.

 

If I have some time tomorrow night I may take the car for a drive with the electronic control module disconnected and then with the module connected.  That way I may be able to see whether I can tell a difference.  I may also try jacking up the rear of the car with the lights on and see what happens.

 

Maybe I was expecting a more dramatic effect similar to the high beam rotation.

[Duffy3074]

It's a subtle effect and not the same as going to high beam.

If it wasn't working the headlamps would not go through the start up and self levelling cycle, there would be no movement at all.

You've done it.

:)

[KevinH90]

I don't have much time tonight, but I was able to perform one test and it appears to confirm that the system is working. I put a jack under the left rear jacking point with the headlights on.  While raising the car, I observed the "cut off" line of the headlights.  It did not appear to move when I jacked up the car.  (If the system was not working, I would have expected the cut off line to move slowly down the wall as the rear of the car went up.)

 

I also observed the white piece of plastic that looks like a ruler located next to the low beam.  When the car was level with low beams on, I could make out 2 lines and the third was just emerging from the housing.  When I turned on the high beam, I could see one line.  When I jacked up the car, I could see one line and the second was just emerging from the housing.

 

So that appears to confirm Duffy's observation that the rotation controlled by the sensors is less than the rotation that results from turning on the high beams.  I hope to do some more testing later on in the week.

 

I have attached updated instructions in the event that anyone wants to benefit from my experience and Duffy's guidance.

 

Thanks again to Duffy for his help.

Litronic Retrofit with Automatic Dynamic Headlight Beam Adjustment - Standard.pdf

Edited March 17, 2015 by KevinH90

[Duffy3074]

Good stuff.

As mentioned before, it's a very simple system and an easy retrofit.

:)

[KevinH90]

According to the MY 2000 Boxster sales brochure, "Porsche's dynamic headlight leveling system focuses light in the ideal spot by automatically raising or lowering the beams to compensate for changes in vehicle attitude.  As a result, the blinding of oncoming vehicles under acceleration is reduced significantly and illumination under braking is greatly improved."

 

Based on that, I may have overestimated the impact the system would have on hills.  Also it is my understanding that this type of system is required by EU law, so it may have been engineered to meet certain regulatory requirements.

 

Thanks again for your patience with my "measure twice cut once" approach to this project.  I guess I could have just jumped in and started working, but I don't think my mechanical skills are quite as high as yours.

[KevinH90]

I'm giving some thought to hooking up the diagnostic system.  

 

I found your thread on Boxa.net: http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57618&hl=litronicin which someone responded to your question:

 

As I thought, the diagnosis lines from the Litronics, AC, ABS, PSM, etc, join at a common point before going to the 16-pin diagnostic socket, pin 3.  You could attach the Og/Bu wire to any of these, or directly to pin 3. 

 

So, it doesn't sound difficult.  I guess I would also need to hook up the engine speed output to the connector.  I know that folks have stated that the system will "throw codes", but I have a Durametric and I expect to be able to clear them. 

 

If something were to go wrong with the system it would be nice to be able to have the ability to troubleshoot.

[JFP in PA]

I'm giving some thought to hooking up the diagnostic system.  

 

I found your thread on Boxa.net: http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57618&hl=litronicin which someone responded to your question:

 

As I thought, the diagnosis lines from the Litronics, AC, ABS, PSM, etc, join at a common point before going to the 16-pin diagnostic socket, pin 3.  You could attach the Og/Bu wire to any of these, or directly to pin 3. 

 

So, it doesn't sound difficult.  I guess I would also need to hook up the engine speed output to the connector.  I know that folks have stated that the system will "throw codes", but I have a Durametric and I expect to be able to clear them. 

 

If something were to go wrong with the system it would be nice to be able to have the ability to troubleshoot.

 

The DME would need to be programed for the presence of the lights; that cannot be done with the Durametric system.

[Duffy3074]

My system worked and I didn't need the diagnostic routines, I didn't consider it worth the cost of getting Porsche to enable the option within the DME. 

 

The wiring is very simple but the coding slightly more awkward for the DIY'er.