Litronic retrofit question

[Duffy3074]

I'm surprised at it controlling how much the lights move, doesn't the litronic ECU decide that, after all that's where the levelling sensors input to.

It also works on the bench with no DME connection at all, move a sensor and the lights adjust.

[Richard Hamilton]

I think there is something getting lost in the English/Scottish/American language translation here, as I'm sure you are both talking about the same thing (Control Module) but are using different terminology.

(Don't seem to be able to add smilies using my iPad, but I would if I could).

[steve20186]

I'm in the middle of the install and I have 2 questions:

1) At step 3.4 "Insert the 4 wires at each headlight into the supplied connectors..." Just pushing them in by hand doesn't seat them in the connector - is there a special tool for this? Is there a trick that can be used instead of the special tool? I've tried a jewelers screwdriver, a very small allen wrench and no go. Help!

2) Maybe I'm missing something, but it talks about the connectors and goes straight into reinstalling the headlights. Does the left side harness feed around the front of the trunk or at the back of the trunk?

Thanks

[JFP in PA]

There is a special tool, but you don't really need it if you follow Mike Rentner's really good set of DIY Litronics install instructions that have been around for a quite a bit, but may help to clear things up: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/box_litronic/litronic_pg1a.htm

[steve20186]

Thanks. I ended up trying the #2 wire and after playing with it a bit using a jewelers screwdriver again and it clicked in place so I went back to the first wire (pink) and tried a few different angles and it finally clicked. As far as where to route the harness o the LHS, I went ahead and routed it around the front since the connector that attaches to the new relay box faces toward the front. There were some other wires and I was able to follow those through/behind the hood latch mount and had plenty of harness to finish the job on the drivers side. Tested it and the low beams raise up a bit when the high beams are on. :thumbup:

Now I just have to aim them.

[Duffy3074]

I'm busy doing this at the moment and have had it working on the bench.

The front and rear sensors bolt straight on without any issues, the only hassle is running the 3 wires from there to the ECU in the front.

The system, externally, just needs a switched 12v feed, an earth and 2 signals from the lights, one for dipped beam coming on and one for main beam.

Very straightforward

:-)

Got this finished today (car's off the road for the winter and been doing other stuff)

The retrofit works perfectly and has full self levelling and high beam raise.

I used the full bhuna litronics control unit (one that had been behind the dash originally) rather than the retrofit one.

I fitted both front and rear sensors (which are a straight bolt on to either front or rear crossmembers as required) and made up a loom using the original colours, 1cm soldered joints with 3 cm adhesive shrinkwrap and 4mm wide cloth tape for that OEM look, and fitted the litronic control unit in the retrofit position (on the righthand inner wing in the frunk)

The only variance from the factory wiring pattern was that I used the retrofit manner of providing the unit with a switched 12 volts (that's from the right hand heated washer feed)

I did not connect it to the DME/diagnostic system, essentially to prevent error codes being thrown up as the car goes 'WTF?' every time the lights are switched on.

I've also retrofitted the litronic washer system, again very straightforward.

Only thing that proved tricky until I worked out what was going on, was that the litronic control unit played dead until both headlamps and both sensors were wired in completely (i did a technology test on the bench before fitting it all and thought that a partial set up would be enough to see how things were) it obviously does a self diagnostic on start up.

It can be done.

:)

[Richard Hamilton]

You shouldn't have any problems connecting it to the diagnostic line. You would need to have it connected to use the calibration routine with PST2 or PIWIS. But well done!

[Duffy3074]

Thanks Richard.

:)

[KevinH90]

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but this is intriguing.

 

I just finished assembling a set of litronic headlights and a retrofit control unit from various sources.  After some repairs and restoration of the headlight covers, I have a nice looking set of litronics with the high beam raise function operational.  You can read about it here:

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/54697-advice-used-litronics.html

and here:

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/55119-986-litronics-plug-play.html

if you are interested. 

 

Rather than quit while I'm ahead, I'm intrigued by the prospect of adding the dynamic leveling function.  I have found a pair of the sensors, but before I spend the money, I was wondering whether you have any additional information including a step-by-step write up and a final decision on whether connecting it to the DME is a viable option.

 

Thanks,

[Duffy3074]

Yes the dynamic levelling is very straightforward. 

 

As mentioned, the only hassle I had was getting the connectors for the self levelling sensors that attach to the suspension arms, I eventually got them out of a scrapyard as Mercedes use them for a stepper motor on the older C class saloons which is mounted just in front of the engine bulkhead (Firewall depending on where you are I suppose)

 

I used a wiring diagram from one of the fleabay 986 workshop manuals and just copied the factory wiring routes and colours, I had it working on the bench before fitting it to the car. One word of warning here is that ALL components and wiring must be present before it'll show any sign of life whatsoever, I assume it conducts a continuity test on start up and if something's missing it plays possum. 

 

This thread goes into my 986 resto and shows exactly what I did. 

 

http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55572&page=16

 

I didn't even try to connect it to the DME as it's not required for a fully functioning system (the factory retrofit kits didn't connect to the DME either so why bother?)

 

Good luck, persevere as it's well worth it. 

 

:)

[KevinH90]

That is exactly what I was looking for.

 

Thanks

[KevinH90]

I managed to find a source for for the automatic dynamic headlight beam adjustment (ADHBA) system components. I'm buying them from a couple of gentlemen who are parting out cars.  I'm going to attempt to install the fully functioning system in a few weeks after the parts arrive and I have some time to check out the components and plan the installation.  

 

I reviewed Duffy3074's posting on Boxtanet and it helps.  The part sellers also sent some pictures of the components as they removed them.  I've posted them here.  I would appreciate assistance with some of the details including precise guidance on positioning and orienting the sensors.  For example, are the mounting holes already drilled or will I need to locate and drill the holes.

 

It will probably be easier to figure out once I have all the parts, but I would like to start thinking this through right now.  

 

Also, since I already have the high-beam rotation feature, I may have the control module and wiring harness from the retrofit kit for sale if anyone is interested.  I was wondering if there is a tool that can be used to help remove the connectors from the plugs that fit into the sockets on the lights.  JFP an Steve discussed putting them on one of the threads.  I may want to take them out.

 

Like I said, any help, suggestions or photos will be eagerly reviewed.

[Duffy3074]

It's actually very obvious when you have the parts, you need to drill one hole in the front subframe to mount the front sensor (you've read my thread and used my photo's here) and then the rear sensor mounts onto one of the bolts that goes from the black cross member and into the alloy suspension frame above the driveshaft, again very obvious when you have the parts. 

 

The photo of the camber adjusting bolt you've taken from my thread has nothing to do with the litronics. 

 

I'm surprised nobody else has done this as it's actually a very simple system. 

[KevinH90]

Thanks for the reply.  

 

Right now, I would have trouble telling the front sensor from the rear one, but I understand what you mean about it being obvious when you have the parts in hand.  However, I may have more obvious questions when I start working on the project.

 

I think one of the reasons very few people have tried this is that there are many posts on the Internet saying it cannot be done.  I think you are the first person to indicate a successful outcome.  Also, the pictures you posted were helpful in explaining to the part sellers what I needed.  I'm not sure that they would have identified them so easily without the visual information.

 

I'm tempted to connect it to the diagnostic system and see if I can test it with my Durametric.  I'll need to think about that before I do it.

Edited February 11, 2015 by KevinH90

[Duffy3074]

The rear sensor has a right angled metal bracket with an obvious large bolt hole, the front one has the small bracket with the captive nut that you bolt into through the subframe. 

 

http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55572&page=16

 

Top photo shows these.

 

Yeah I read the same doomsayer threads but the clue for me was that Porsche could offer a retrofit kit and if that's the case...............

 

I didn't try to connect it to the DME as all this would have provided was a few diagnostic options, since mine worked perfectly (and it is a simple system) I wasn't overly fussed about that. 

 

Get it done, don't overthink it and just following the correct wiring colours and it'll work.

 

:)

 

:)

[JFP in PA]

There are several type and sizes of pin extraction tools:

 

 

Amazon, amongst others, sells several of them

[Duffy3074]

Make sure the sellers include the tails of the wires from the plugs you are getting and just solder/heatshrink onto that and leave the pins alone, less hassle!

[KevinH90]

Thanks JFP

 

Duffy - I may need the pin extraction tool to remove the wiring harness I installed to activate the low beam rotation function.  The connectors on the back of the headlights are too big to fit through the holes in the side of the trunk.  If the harness I receive from the breaker works OK, I'd like sell the one I have to recoup my funds.  

 

I should receive the harness on Friday or Saturday, so I'll post some pictures this weekend.  It may be several weeks before I have time to crawl under the car and actually perform the installation.  So, please check back from time to time in case I am in desperate need of advice.

[Duffy3074]

Since I bought the connectors on their own, I just made up my own loom which was straightforward, I'd rather do that than disturb the pins in the connectors but I can understand your motives on that one. 

 

I'm watching this thread and if I see something I can help with, I will. 

 

:)

[KevinH90]

I received some of my parts today.  The sensors and brackets will probably arrive next week.  Since I like to plan as much as I can and anticipate challenges, I'm going to start asking questions (see the bold items) even though the earliest I can start the installation is about 2 weeks from now.

 

The first photo shows what I'm assuming to be the connectors that fit on the sensors.  The second photo shows a close up of the connector with the red/white, blue and brown/black wires.  This configuration matches the wiring diagram in my Bentley manual.

 

The third photo shows the control module and 18 pin connector.  I think the connector is identical to the one I used in the retrofit kit.  I cannot be certain that the control module is the same, so I'm going to have to test to be sure.  I have both types available and I'll eventually sell the one I don't need.

 

The fourth photo shows the pins in the connector.    Pins 1-8 are for the wires that run to the connectors on the back of the litronic headlights.  They activate the drives in the unit.  I'm planning to use the connector I installed with the retrofit kit since it is already in the car and I know that it works.  I will then remove pins 12, 13, 14 and 17 from the harness in the picture and use them as part of the wiring loom that connects to the sensors.  Does anyone know which type of pin removal tool I need to remove the pins?

 

Here's the pin assignment in the connector based on my research in the Bentley manual and my experience installing the retrofit kit.

 

Pins 1-8 As mentioned above pins 1-8 go to the litronic drives in the headlights.

Pin 9 - Diagnostic (Blue/Orange) Not used because of the risk of throwing codes

Pin 10 - Signal on light (Gray)  This looks like it runs to the cluster terminal 58, but I'm not sure what it is for

Pin 11 - ESO (Engine Speed Output) (White/Brown)  This appears to run to CP (Connecting Point) 88

Pin 12 - Front sensor (Blue)

Pin 13 - Rear sensor (Blue)

Pin 14 - +5V power supply to both sensors (Red/White)

Pin 15 - Signal on high beam (White) - I already tapped this for the retrofit kit

Pin 16 - Power (Red/Black) - I already tapped this for the retrofit

Pin 17 - Ground to both sensors (Brown/Black)

Pin 18 - Ground (Brown) - Already done for the retrofit

 

So, right now, it looks like I am not going to be using pins 9, 10 and 11.

 

Everything else looks pretty straight forward.  When I receive my sensors, I plan to connect them as described above and test the system before I install the sensors on the car.

 

All feed back and suggestions are welcome.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

[Duffy3074]

I'll give you clues here!

You've got a high beam signal but what about low beam/initial turn on???

;)

There are 2 different ECU's but they perform identically so no need to worry about that, I can't advise about the pins.

Edited February 14, 2015 by Duffy3074

[KevinH90]

I think you may have saved me some head scratching. If I don't find a way to tell the system that the headlights are on, the system would be dead in the water.

 

So, it looks like I have two options for telling the system to turn on:

 

1. Trace the gray wire from the back of the cluster and connect it to pin 10.

2. Tap into the connector that I used for the high beam on signal for the retrofit kit and connect that to pin 10.  I have attached a photo of the connector.  It appears that the yellow/white wire is the one to use.

 

Regarding the ESO/Pin 11

 

It appears that I will need to access the ECU in the rear trunk or find some other location to pick up the Engine Speed Output Signal.  If I recall correctly, when I installed the Navigation unit in my dash, there was a speed signal in that loom.  I'll need to check if that is a better option.  I have a 2000 Boxster and the only wiring diagrams in it are for 1998 and 2001 models.  However, it appears that I have the DME 7.2 and that there is a "Speed signal output" on pin 17 of the 40-pin connector D.

 

That still leaves Pin 9 unused, but it appears I could hook that up to the diagnostic plug under the steering wheel and hope for the best.

 

Thanks for the pointers.  I'll keep puzzling this out.

Edited February 14, 2015 by KevinH90

[Duffy3074]

If you mount the ECU in the factory approved space (eg the same as mine) the cable you need is right next to it..........

Do you actually need the speed signal? Mine wasn't wired for that at all.

[KevinH90]

So, it is the yellow and white wire for the light turn on signal.  I won't have any problems hooking into that.

 

It is also nice to know the ECU's are identical.  I won't have to remove the one I have.  I'll wait to sell the other one until I'm sure I won't be needing it.

 

I'm wondering why there is a provision for the engine speed signal if it isn't necessary.  Does it affect the amount of headlight rotation.  Since it is the engine speed, not the vehicle speed does it rotate the headlights down slightly to compensate for the effect of acceleration and deceleration?  The front of the car does point up a little when you are accelerating and down when braking, but the sensors on the suspension should pick that up.  Maybe it is a early warning system.  If you take your foot of the gas, the car gets ready to correct a downward inclination.

 

Also, I think the pins in the connector are molex pins.  So, I may need a molex pin extractor.  http://www.amazon.com/Connector-Remover-Computer-Extractor-Sleeving/dp/B0094MIS9U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1423950285&sr=8-3&keywords=molex+pin++and+removal+tool

Edited February 14, 2015 by KevinH90

[Duffy3074]

Looked at the wiring diagram and what I had on mine, the retrofit kit didn't use pins 9 and 11, so neither did I. 

 

It's the grey and the white that are your 2 power feeds. 

 

I suspect that there may have been a possibility for adjusting view range with speed but I've never heard of that being implemented in either a factory fit or aftermarket (you'd end up with the possibility of blinding other drivers as you got faster with that) My Audi S8 has a speed signal to the light ECU but that's because it angles the headlamps as you corner at low speed, the Boxster doesn't do that.  

 

With both suspension sensors connected it measures the angle of the car and adjusts the headlamps accordingly, it just works. 

 

It's dead easy to rig it up with a 12V battery or power supply on the bench, just make sure that the ECU, both headlamps and both sensors are jury rigged in correctly, connect the earth and the two 12V signal wires and start to play with your sensors. The headlamps will do a calibration/movement cycle and that's you. 

 

Going to so the headlamp washers as well?

 

Done half a job otherwise..........

 

;)

Edited February 15, 2015 by Duffy3074