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Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

How hard is it to replace the ac compressor and dryer on this car as DIY?

So I have been given the news, my hi side ac service port was leaking and over time reduced the charge to make the ac stop working. Removed cap, noticed it leaking slowly (audible). Went to the shop and had the valve replaced, but during inspection, they said that they noticed the clutch is burnet out on the compressor due to the low charge. Now, I am faced with repairs for this.

My choices are:

- indie shop (who says about 700 for ac comp, 80 for dryer, and about 600 for work including flush)

- dealer - not even thinking about it

- DIY - remove ac compressor, replace dryer, and then have indie shop flush and recharge system same day afterwards - is this a viable option?

When went to indie shop, they replaced service valve, pulled vacuum and stated there are no more leaks. then put in 134A into lines to appropriate amount. Then said the compressor failed to engage and mechanics told me they can see the melted clutch parts. Then they pulled the fluid out stating the low side service port was leaking slowly, but since ac is bad, it would need dryer replacement too anyways. So they have my fluid that I already paid for, but all I need is to have AC compressor replaced along with the dryer.

My question is though, once I replace compressor, would I be better off to give them the dryer to replace? or should I just replace dryer and then drive to them to service (flush, recharge)? What is in your opinion the way to go here?

Edited by ciaka
  • Moderators
Posted

How hard is it to replace the ac compressor and dryer on this car as DIY?

So I have been given the news, my hi side ac service port was leaking and over time reduced the charge to make the ac stop working. Removed cap, noticed it leaking slowly (audible). Went to the shop and had the valve replaced, but during inspection, they said that they noticed the clutch is burnet out on the compressor due to the low charge. Now, I am faced with repairs for this.

My choices are:

- indie shop (who says about 700 for ac comp, 80 for dryer, and about 600 for work including flush)

- dealer - not even thinking about it

- DIY - remove ac compressor, replace dryer, and then have indie shop flush and recharge system same day afterwards - is this a viable option?

When went to indie shop, they replaced service valve, pulled vacuum and stated there are no more leaks. then put in 134A into lines to appropriate amount. Then said the compressor failed to engage and mechanics told me they can see the melted clutch parts. Then they pulled the fluid out stating the low side service port was leaking slowly, but since ac is bad, it would need dryer replacement too anyways. So they have my fluid that I already paid for, but all I need is to have AC compressor replaced along with the dryer.

My question is though, once I replace compressor, would I be better off to give them the dryer to replace? or should I just replace dryer and then drive to them to service (flush, recharge)? What is in your opinion the way to go here?

Physically, neither is hard to replace with decent tools, although there is some stuff in the way. That said, when AC mechanical components are replaced, you also need to adjust the oil level is the system (Porsche actually has a chart listing how much oil should be in which component). You will also need the correct lubricant (typically PAG oil) to wet the seals on component connections when reassembling (you cannot use just any oil for this). Once assembled, it needs to be leak tested under vacuum to make sure none of the connections you touched are leaking before refilling with gas.

Most shops, mine included, will not warranty a recharge if we did not do the parts swap, too many potential issues outside our control. So, at the end of the day, you have to ask yourself how much risk you are willing to absorb in trying to save the money.

Posted

I know.

Just trying to figure out an economical way to do this. Just came back from vacation and kids going away next week...life realities here.

I am fine with doing the parts replacement...easy enough, only thing to figure out what the likely hood would be of me not putting the lines in right, after all, when they recharge it, they will pull vacuum to make sure there is no leak again, before recharge. Would that not be indication of decent job installing compressor and dryer?

Need advice here.

  • Moderators
Posted

I know.Just trying to figure out an economical way to do this. Just came back from vacation and kids going away next week...life realities here.I am fine with doing the parts replacement...easy enough, only thing to figure out what the likely hood would be of me not putting the lines in right, after all, when they recharge it, they will pull vacuum to make sure there is no leak again, before recharge. Would that not be indication of decent job installing compressor and dryer?Need advice here.

As I noted, the mechanics are not that difficult or complicated, it is purely a matter of where your head and your wallet are at, and your comfort level.

Posted

The compressor shouldn't engage is the system pressure is low, it's a fail safe to prevent damage to the compressor, maybe get a second opinion on the needed repairs.

Posted

already did and compressor is gone for sure with the clutch.

been looking for info from those who did it, how easy is access/removal of ac compressor and drier. Will be doing it weekend I think. maybe make a DIY artie of it too.

Posted (edited)

so I am doing this today. The replacement ac compressor is new denso unit for 05 CTT per sales person I was discussing this with.

AC compressor not hard to remove at all (no need to take off tire either or lining in wheel well).

However, when I got to hood up the power connector (I assume clutch engage connection), noticed that the new compressor connector internally has one prong (red), whereas the old compressor connector had two prongs (red/black). The new connector prong is much thinner and there seems to be a plastic edge inside the connector, preventing me from making complete contact.

SOOOOO....I am pissed. CAN THIS BE MADE TO WORK AS LONG AS I GET GOOD CONNECTION?

What are my options? Can this be retrofitted to work? remove connector from old compressor and wire it into the new compressor? I NEED HELP HERE. car apart and I really think return/reorder is the last option I am thinking of at this time.

THANKS.

Edited by ciaka
Posted (edited)

Yes.

The store part number is 60-01801 NC. Another number i see is 477280-6091. Another is 471-1580.

For 2005 CTT 4.5L engine.

Both compressors are same. Lines same location, mount holes in exact same place too. Only diff us the two wires coming out of the ac unit. Old one has both wires going into connector. New one has Black wire going to ac.compressor chassis, the red going into connector. The new ac unit connector is also slightly different. I plan to transplant connector from old one. Any comments?

post-79141-0-79683600-1372862632_thumb.j

Edited by ciaka
  • Moderators
Posted

Yes.

The store part number is 60-01801 NC. Another number i see is 477280-6091. Another is 471-1580.

For 2005 CTT 4.5L engine.

Both compressors are same. Lines same location, mount holes in exact same place too. Only diff us the two wires coming out of the ac unit. Old one has both wires going into connector. New one has Black wire going to ac.compressor chassis, the red going into connector. The new ac unit connector is also slightly different. I plan to transplant connector from old one. Any comments?

It sounds like that is not the correct compressor, which should be a direct drop in replacement.

Posted

confirmed with store and from online resources, get this compressor for my make/model/engine size. 05CTT 4.5L turbo.

They are identical in mold, all lines fit just fine, the only diff is the connector on new one has black line grounded at ac compressor chassis, and red line goes into conector, whereas on old one, black and red lines on compressor go into a connector. Connector on new one is slightly different (same shape). Can plug it in, but the red prong inside connector looks thinner and there is no black prong (since gounded at chassis of ac compressor).

SO my plan: remove connector from old ac compressor, fit to new compressor so that connection to car is identical.

Assuming compressor is for the car, do you see this a logical step? Researched and since this connection activates/deactivates compressor, then it should all fit fine.

Lemme know if you can. Putting things back together. That drive belt it a biach to do (putting in a new one anyway).

Yes.

The store part number is 60-01801 NC. Another number i see is 477280-6091. Another is 471-1580.

For 2005 CTT 4.5L engine.

Both compressors are same. Lines same location, mount holes in exact same place too. Only diff us the two wires coming out of the ac unit. Old one has both wires going into connector. New one has Black wire going to ac.compressor chassis, the red going into connector. The new ac unit connector is also slightly different. I plan to transplant connector from old one. Any comments?

It sounds like that is not the correct compressor, which should be a direct drop in replacement.

  • Moderators
Posted

confirmed with store and from online resources, get this compressor for my make/model/engine size. 05CTT 4.5L turbo.

They are identical in mold, all lines fit just fine, the only diff is the connector on new one has black line grounded at ac compressor chassis, and red line goes into conector, whereas on old one, black and red lines on compressor go into a connector. Connector on new one is slightly different (same shape). Can plug it in, but the red prong inside connector looks thinner and there is no black prong (since gounded at chassis of ac compressor).

SO my plan: remove connector from old ac compressor, fit to new compressor so that connection to car is identical.

Assuming compressor is for the car, do you see this a logical step? Researched and since this connection activates/deactivates compressor, then it should all fit fine.

Lemme know if you can. Putting things back together. That drive belt it a biach to do (putting in a new one anyway).

Yes.

The store part number is 60-01801 NC. Another number i see is 477280-6091. Another is 471-1580.

For 2005 CTT 4.5L engine.

Both compressors are same. Lines same location, mount holes in exact same place too. Only diff us the two wires coming out of the ac unit. Old one has both wires going into connector. New one has Black wire going to ac.compressor chassis, the red going into connector. The new ac unit connector is also slightly different. I plan to transplant connector from old one. Any comments?

It sounds like that is not the correct compressor, which should be a direct drop in replacement.

I would not be modifying anything to try and make it work. Like I said, the compressor should be a drop in, plug and play replacement; with absolutely no modifications. We do this all the time, the supplier should have given you the correct unit. If you start modifying it, and it still does not work correctly, I rather doubt those that sold it to you will take it back.

Posted

The DENSO part No for your car is DPC28010

If I google 60-01801 NC I am taken to the web page of discountacparts.com for Panamera 4.8L 2010-2012 which has a DENSO part number DPC28014 which clearly a different DENSO part number from the one which you require.

If now look up Porsche Cayenne 4.5 liter on the same site I again come to their ID no. 60-01801 NC. Click on the thumbnail to obtain a larger view and you get a reasonably detailed view of the compressor with this written underneath it

This is an exact* picture of your part. We do not use generic pictures. Our cataloging team is the best in the industry and it ensures that you get the right part, the first time.

If I zoom in on the label on the compressor there is a Mercedes logo and what appears to be a Mercedes Part No 000 230 62 11 (closest I can find to an actual part number) which again has a different DENSO part number DPC17111

All are 7SEU17C compressors but they are not identical

  • Moderators
Posted

Interestingly, when I traced the 60-01801 NC part number, it came back as fitting the 3.2L Cayenne, not the turbo on some sites, but fitting the turbo on others. If you have to do any modifications to the wiring or connectors, I still think you have the wrong compressor as it should drop right in without modification. I also noted several dissatisfied customer reviews on some sites complaining that they had difficulties finding the correct model (there are apparently several) to directly fit into their cars. This may be a part that requires cross referencing your VIN to get the correct unit.

Posted

well, at the shop now and being done (flush/vacuum pull/fill with 134a).

Same vendor of ac compressor for the 3.2L engine came up as 60-01490 I believe.

Interestingly enough, when searching the site of place where i bought it, they had a section for common questions/etc.

One of them was the connector does not fit. Their explanation was that in some cases the connection may not be identical, in which case, without voiding warranty, one can use the connection from old unit (with proper insulation during the process). I had these connected and used shrink tubing on each lead, then on overall cable and used the heat shielding that the cabling comes with anyway.

Soon enough we will know, but I am super confident that this will be a success. Main thing is they do a good job flushing the system out, making sure vacuum is pulled and then all else is a piece of cake.

I should have 2 DIYs from this:

1. Replcement of AC compressor for 03-06 CS/CTT (will put in caveat about connection so that each person makes up their mind on this - and based on outcome from today's meet with the shop)

2. Replacement of Drier for 03-06 C/CS/CTT (will put in info on when is a good idea to change)

Posted
...all went well.
Will create DIYs when I have time (work killing me now).
parts worked fine and fit fine too.
Will update with more info when time is available. Thanks.

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