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Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi I’m stuck. A few years ago I bought a 99 996 with a bad engine, well three years later I have the engine rebuilt with a few upgrades and now I have the engine installed but it won’t start, it cranks over but I get no fuel pressure and no fuel injector signal. I have my fuel pressure gauge installed and it reads 0lb, if I use the durametric software I start the fuel pump and I get 55lb or so, but if I crank the engine over the pressure does not go down at all. I took one of the fuel injector plugs off and I plugged in a noid light and I get no signal at the plug. By the way I cleaned the injectors before I put them back into the motor. So the injectors are not getting a signal from the computer. If I spray starter fluid into the intake the engine starts and runs as long as I keep spraying into the air intake. I checked all the fuses, I was told that the previous owner over heated the engine that’s it and it was running before they took the engine out. I have not looked for error codes yet I will try tomorrow. Can it be the computers lost sync it being without a battery for 3 years? The Key I was given has a little button on it if I hit the button I see a little light on the dash blink but that’s it. I think the mechanic that pulled out the engine did not touch inside the car, or at least it does not look like he did.

Any ideas?

Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.

Posted

WOW I did not think about that! Would I still get spark at the spark plugs?

I guess I have something else to check. Can I check it with a ohm meter?

Thanks

Posted

From one of Loren's Posts:

Well, you can hope it is a bad connection and try looking at and cleaning the electrical connection.To precisely determine the crankshaft position, a reference mark signal is required.Engine speed and reference mark are monitored via an inductive sensor. A larger gear notch in the ring gear (on the flywheel) serves as reference mark. The larger notch induces a higher voltage in the sensor.A soft iron core partially bundles the magnetic field produced by the permanent magnet which then enters the space and closes again through the magnetically conductive parts of the engine. A steel toothed ring moving past the face of the sensor affects the magnetic field. The change in the magnetic field induces an electric charge that is used by the DME.A fault code is stored in memory when no crankshaft position sensor signal is recognized within 60 crankshaft revolutions and the engine speed is above 500 rpm.crank_pos_sensor.png1 - Permanent magnet2 - Sensor housing3 - Engine case4 - Soft iron core5 - Inductor coil6 - Reference markCould be the sensor connection, bad sensor, magnet has fallen out of the flywheel or even a bad DME (but not likely).Test the sensor as follows:Remove connector. Connect ohmmeter to sensor connector, pins 1 and 2.Display at 20 °C: 0.8 - 1.0 k ohmsConnect ohmmeter to sensor connector, pins 1 and 3.Display: 00 infinite ohmsHope this helps some...

Loren

RennTech.org

PCA member since 1978

Posted

Update.

Everyone thanks for all the feed back. It's great to find a community that everyone is so willing to help someone else out without knowing the other person.

The car only had a two fault codes. Oh by the way what is the appropriate name used to describe the vehicle, car, Porsche, 911, 996 I know some groups are very particular with the word is used to refer to the vehicle. I come from a long family of Jeeps owners.

Fault codes in AC section

RED 20Combi-interface fault RED 24Power supply (terminal 15) fault

We will your help I was checking the CPS and I noticed the plug that I had plugged into it was the wrong color, so I swapped it with the right color one and it started right up, it's pretty loud with out mufflers. I still need to get a few more things done before it ready for the road but it's looking really good. Now that is runs I have a new fault code.

P1397Camshaft sensor bank 2 Short to ground

I unplugged both sensors and checked them both I'm not sure which is bank 2 I'm guessing by piston 4. I checked both with a ohm meter and both give me the same reading. but the one on bank 2 piston 4 the cable coming out of the unit is in bad shape that may be the short that it's complaining about.

One more think I noticed today. if I turn on the radio it says CODE. I need to type in the security code for the radio right, where the heck can I get that? Or should I just replace it with a new radio. I would like to keep it all original.

This is fun..

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