Regardless of the brand...

[hi8ha]

Hi:

Regardless of the brand preferred by each owner, for a MY99, manual, RWD, with around 84K miles,in Miami Fl., what oil viscosity is recommended, 0w-40 or 5w-40?

[boxster-s-dk]

If I lived in Miami, I would choose http://www.mobil1.dk/motorolier/peak-life-5w-50.aspx

[logray]

Good advice. Mobil 1 5w50 is a good product, and I am loving the way it preforms when it gets hot. The only downside is the weight spread means you might have to change it a little more often.

From http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

Edited March 29, 2013 by logray

[hi8ha]

Thanks guys.

[hi8ha]

I've been looking for the Mobil 1 SM 5w50 but all I can find is Moibil 1 5w50. Is it the same oil?

[logray]

The M1 5w50 I get at any Napa auto parts in California carries the following ratings (meets or exceeds):

ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4

API SN, SM, SL

Porsche A40

MB 229.1/229.3

VW 501.01/505.00

BMW High Perf Diesel Oil

Lexus LFA Service Fill

I am liking it way better than the Castrol 10w40 or 5w50 product when it gets hot.

And no way would I ever use M1 0w40

P.S. better hurry, I think there is a $5.99/qt promotion on M1 right now at Napa auto parts ends 3/31/13. (cheaper than autozone and pep boys promotions here locally)

Edited March 29, 2013 by logray

[hi8ha]

Just got them a bout 2 hrs ago. Thanks. However, have a new problem, the oil drain plug is will not accept any wrench, is rounded. Think is made of aluminium. How can I take it out (unscrew) Will be getting a new one tomorrow at Vertex Auto here in Miami.

Although purchased one was wondering if this is convenient.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAGNET-Oil-Drain-Plug-PORSCHE-911-924-928-944-968-/160680737982?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3APorsche&hash=item2569517cbe&vxp=mtr

Edited March 29, 2013 by hi8ha

[logray]

Craftsman has an excellent stripped bolt/nut "removal" kit available (bolt out). Saved me many times.

Worst case you can drop the oil pan (not that hard) and take it to a machine shop, they'll have it out in a jiff.

Resealing the oil pan is not that hard, but you do need to use drei bond from Porsche and use it very very sparingly.

Edited March 29, 2013 by logray

[logray]

Although purchased one was wondering if this is convenient.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAGNET-Oil-Drain-Plug-PORSCHE-911-924-928-944-968-/160680737982

I have not seen that one (other than some older 911's I've worked on).

The one from LNE works great for me.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=900-219-009-30-M835

[hi8ha]

Thanks. Thought about it but was not sure.Think I may have a Craftman Drill-out power extractor. Need to look for it, too many gadgets in too little space. LOL.

Edited March 29, 2013 by hi8ha

[fpb111]

Tap the next larger Torx bit into it. Then take it out. The LN magnetic plug uses a larger allen wrench. That makes it harder to strip the head.

[logray]

The LNE unit is billet alluminum IIRC (harder), while the stock part is probably cast (softer).

Porsche has an optional steel? plug too if I remember right.

Edited March 30, 2013 by logray

[hi8ha]

Did it. Noticed that there was no washer, could that be the reason why it was so hard it got stripped? There is a pinned topic in regards to the stripped oild drain plug. Loren mentions that Porsche has a SS oil drain plug and provided this number: 900.219.015. SS

[JFP in PA]

Did it. Noticed that there was no washer, could that be the reason why it was so hard it got stripped? There is a pinned topic in regards to the stripped oild drain plug. Loren mentions that Porsche has a SS oil drain plug and provided this number: 900.219.015. SS

I would be very circumspect about using a stainless steel plug in an aluminum sump unless you coat it with anti seize every time it is out. Dissimilar metals often have galling or seizure problems, which would require removing the sump cover while the engine is still full of oil; something I have had to do a couple times and can strongly recommend against going there without a good reason (we ended up drilling a drain hole in the sump cover to get the oil out).

Before going SS, I would look at LN Engineering's magnetic drain plug, it is hard anodized aluminum (no dissimilar metals issues) to reduce wear on the hex, also uses a larger sized hex tool to spread the torque load over a larger area, and it has an extremely powerful neodymium magnet that will pick up any ferrous debris in the oil:

We have had them on customer's cars, as well as my own, for years; show none of the problems the OEM plug has. Great addition to any car.

[hi8ha]

Makes sense about the different metals. Although already bought the OEM will order the LN Engineering drain plug. Think is worth the wait.

Thanks.

[JFP in PA]

The addition of the magnet alone makes it worth the wait.

[Y2K911]

Superb idea, JFP! I will do the same and order that magnetic plug from LN. I assume they provide suitable washers as well. Thanks!

[logray]

Hah, JFP it must have been the pictures... I have to remember to put in pretty pictures next time. LOL.

[hi8ha]

Got the LN plug. Installed, all OK.

Read on a previous post in this thread that is recommended that the Mobil 1 5W-50 be changed in a shorter interval. Which is the suggested interval for this oil, miles, months?

[JFP in PA]

The oil (and filter) should be changed at least annually, or every 5K miles.

[hi8ha]

!!THANKS!!! Will do.

And the transmission oil, at the same interval?

Out of subject but will ask anyways, I don't use the car every day, nor every weekend, much less track it, what break pads would it be recommended, brand, type, etc.

As you may noticed catching up with some maintenance.

Edited April 7, 2013 by hi8ha

[JFP in PA]

The gearbox is fine at every 30-40K, but use the OEM gear oil when you change it, and be sure to always remove the fill plug on the trans before you take out the drain plug. For the way you use the car, stay with the OEM style pads.

[hi8ha]

Thanks.