Clutch, AOS, Water Pump, Thermostat DIY Questions

[logray]

Actually, according to one bearing retrofit company, the center stud is merely there to draw and set the tube at the correct depth. It can fail, although is not as common compared with ball bearing (wear and then) failure. In fact, that company does not sell a redesigned center stud, they use the factory center stud with their bearing retrofit kit.

The flange and ball bearings take the chain tension load, not the center stud.

This is why the solid bearing design provided by the IMS solution made by LNE seems to me the ultimate end all be all of this problem. Once you have a solid bearing on both ends of the tube, the only reason why it might fail at that point is oil starvation (or I suppose metal fatigue/mfg defect)... although it is a new product, that is the theory behind it at least.

I have not removed the A/C pulley, sorry I can't help there.

Edited April 1, 2013 by logray

[Uwon]

I spoke to my dealer and they don't know either about the thread direction of the center bolt for the A/C. They just send the whole compressor out. Figures.....so I masked it off, covered the motor and rear end and rattle canned it.By the way, I am really disappointed with the quality of the hardware underneath the car. The engine case and trani are oxidized and heavily discolored, brackets are rusty, bolts are rusty, etc. my 25 year old 911 has fared better.Progress is slow. No rush as winter has reared it's ugly head again-April fool !

[logray]

The discoloration you're seeing is cosmoline. If you were to strip that away (don't do that BTW) it would be shiny new.

Rust on the exhaust parts is common...

Edited April 2, 2013 by logray

[Uwon]

Cosmoline really looks like cr&&&p especially on such a beautiful motor. my mild steel brackets on the trani and on top of the motor by the AOS are all rusty including the bolts. I cleaned them up and reprinted them + new bolts.

Anyway, tomorrow is trani re-installation day. In preparation I have drained the oil and refilled with the expensive Porsche stuff. Manual calls for 2.9 liters and I have filled 3.0 liters. I stuck a crooked wire into the filler hole on the side and its nowhere near the top. Trani is level. Garage is approximately 60 degrees F. Am I OK.?

Edited April 5, 2013 by Uwon

[JFP in PA]

Cosmoline really looks like cr&&&p especially on such a beautiful motor. my mild steel brackets on the trani and on top of the motor by the AOS are all rusty including the bolts. I cleaned them up and reprinted them + new bolts.Anyway, tomorrow is trani re-installation day. In preparation I have drained the oil and refilled with the expensive Porsche stuff. Manual calls for 2.9 liters and I have filled 3.0 liters. I stuck a crooked wire into the filler hole on the side and its nowhere near the top. Trani is level. Garage is approximately 60 degrees F. Am I OK.?

Recheck it once it is back in the car and the car is sitting level.

[Uwon]

Thanks JFP. Will do.

So now I am setting things up for tomorrow's main event-re installing the flywheel, clutch and trani. I kick myself for not taking pics of the dis-assembly. So I need help in determining which side of the clutch disk faces the flywheel. I think that the first pic faces the flywheel (convex portion facing outwards towards the trani) and the second pic faces the trani.Am I right?

[logray]

Regarding the disc direction:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/24817-clutch-disk-direction/#entry130162

[Uwon]

Logray and JFP, many thanks again for all your invaluable help. Found the stamp on the disk "getriebe seite",Keep you posted. Cheers.....

[Uwon]

Well, that was fun... like pegging the donkey blindfolded. I always forget how frustrating it is to get the trani to seat home. It's done.

However, I was just curious so I removed the boot on the slave cylinder and, surprise, it was wet with brake fluid. So I 'm ordering a new one.

[Uwon]

JFP and logray. Back to the transmission oil level questioin. I now have the car level and I went to check the transmission fuid level after having drained the old oil and refilled with 3 liters of that expensive Porsche stuff. I am embarrassed to say that I did not notice the plug behind the gearshift cables. I only noticed the plug on the transaxle just ahead ot the right side half shaft which I used to fill with new oil and trying to use this hole to check the oil level (obviously, it is so high that it would need much more oil to fill). I would just like to confirm that the plug behind the gearshift cables is used to check the oil level and the plug beside the half shaft is used to fill oil. Right?

[JFP in PA]

When the oil runs out #1, it is full, this is on the open side.

[Uwon]

JFK, that plug no. 1 looks like its on the drivers side. On my car, '06, C2S, it is on the passenger side behint the gearshift cables. Right?

[JFP in PA]

_{Are you referring to this plug?}

[Uwon]

Yes.

[JFP in PA]

That is it.

[Uwon]

Thanks JFP. I am now ready to start the motor but I keep getting a low oil level on the dash-below minimum. I have put in 8.5 litres per the manual. Never had this issue before with my normal oil changes that I can recall. Any ideas?

[logray]

You removed the sump plate IIRC, so perhaps more oil drained than the normal service fill which is normal.

The total engine oil capacity is usually a little more than the oil change amount.

When the engine has a long time to drain, and with sump removed it is possible more than the "oil change amount" drained out.

I would add 1/4 of a liter at a time until it registers on your dash display. If you prefilled the oil filter, then fill until about 3/4 of the way between min and max. If you put the new oil filter on dry I would fill to the top line.

Start it briefly for a second or two, then shut it off, then start it up again.

One nice reason to have an older model with a real dipstick. ;)

[JFP in PA]

Logray is correct, pulling the sump drains more oil than the drain plug, so a normal fill will come up slightly short. No biggie, just top it up.

[Uwon]

Thanks logray and JFP. 9.5 liters to get to 1/4 above minimum. Will stop there until I start the motor per logray's instructions. Still having problems with the clutch pedal, which is still knotchy so looks like I'll have to bleed the slave cylinder for the third time.

[logray]

I would fill to 3/4 between min and max, 1/4 is low, especially considering the work you've done.

I would bleed the brakes, then the slave cylinder.

I am glad I am correct.

[Uwon]

JFP and logray. I can report that my beloved Porsche is back together and in good working order. First ride of the season was exhilarating. I decided to defer the water pump replacement until May as we have to go for our annual pilgrimage to The Hershey Swap Meet next week (15 years I think). Also, she who must be obeyed was feeling a bit neglected.

Your attentive advise and almost instant responses took out allot of anxiety throughout this project. Thanks again.

Cheers.....

[logray]

Great work. Glad to hear it is running well.

[Uwon]

I have now driven the car close to 3,000 km since the job. Clutch great, no leaks, life is good. Thanks again JFP and logray for your invaluable help. Cheers....

[Uwon]

Well, I have finally been back at it again to finish off the water pump replacement. There is lots on this subject and I settled on a DYI post that has been frequently referred here and in other forums.

http://p-car.com/996/diy/waterpump/

It seemed simple enough and avoided the arduous task of removing the rear engine carrier and cat converters. My car being an '06 C2S appears to be slightly different than the earlier 996's. The issue was that I could not move away the engine carrier far enough back to get the required room to remove the water pump upwards. As the engine carrier is quite flexible, I used a crow bar to gently bend the carrier by about 5 mm and block it to holds its position. I also removed the large black plastic hose guide on the left rear of the engine and tucked the hoses a away as much as I could. The pump came out with ease. The removal of the plastic hose guide is a bit of a PITA as it is held by one bolt tucked between the two hose guides and which can only be reached from underneath with little room to maneuver. Once unbolted the guide can be moved away by pushing it towards the left rear fender to release the two prongs which are embeded in the engine case.

The re-assembly was essentially as per the DYI although I did also replace the two corrugated cat pipe clamps which were completely seized up and had to grinded off.

One final note on coolant flushing- I used my wet vac on the two coolant pipes at the front of the trani and got out about 26 liters of the stated 28.5 liters without taking apart the front rad, etc. I was quite happy with that.

[Doug_B_928]

Wet vac to remove the coolant; neat idea!