ECS brake line install

[the head]

Did this earlier today. I also bought the power bleeder (the one with the gauge on the tank) and that was a big help since I was doing this on my own.Rear lines are easy. The fronts aren't quite so friendly. I recommend going at those with patience or a wad of $1 bills for a cuss jar. There are two brackets that are bolted to the rear side of the control arm (the vertical piece going to the upper ball joint) that must be removed. One holds one end of the line and is easy enough to remove along with the pad wear sensor plug so you can move it around a little. The upper one required vise grips to remove since there is very little room to get the right torx head on it (I only have sockets and no room even with a 1/4" drive). I replaced the upper bolt with a regular bolt so a 10mm wrench would fit it. You must fasten the end of the hose at this point first before doing the upper connection along the body. On the first side I also completely removed the inner fender (mud guard) in the wheel well to get good clearance to the fittings. On the other side I only partially unbolted it to get there. It's much easier the second time on the front.But the lines fit quite well. Not sure if the pedal feel improved a whole lot because my brake fluid is probably 4 years old or something. It's nice that the ATE fluid is blue. If you are careful, 1 liter of brake fluid is probably enough but I wanted a good flush in mine since it's been a while.No messages, special "resets", or sensor calibrations are necessary, once you're done you just drive. Sorry for the lack of pics but I was kinda crunched for time.