Engine rebuild and P1539 and P1324

[phil53chevy]

ok, I am going to unplug battery and MAF. I will also take out plugs and check for good measure. I will then switch around coil packs and see if miss follows to bank 2 since all of my misses are on bank 1. I had no missfires at initial fire up only the CAM faults and 2x o2 sensors, which I replaced and then O2 faults went away .

Logray, did repalcing the injectors back when you rebuilt solve your problem.?

Also read, though running poorly, you had no CELs, just out of wack fuel trims. correct?

[logray]

Never had a misfire or a fault code.

When it first fired (one of the times I had it out) like I said there was a terrible spark knock, which was due to a spark plug/coil not installed correctly.

After that was resolved, the engine just started running poorly over time after each ECU reset.

The fuel trims were not yet at the point where they would throw a code, but they were indicating lean running. I didn't run the engine very long like this, because running a new engine HOT and/or overly LEAN or RICH can be disastrous to longevity, HP, and oil consumption!

What resolved both the short and long term fuel trims with mine turned out to be combo between injectors and a bad IACV, but that doesn't mean that's what will solve yours, each problem has to be diagnosed and treated separately.

[phil53chevy]

yes. just curiuos...grasping !!

[phil53chevy]

I checked all plugs and coils. the plugs looked a little sooty on bank 1-3 and good and soft brown on 4-6.

Unplugged MAF and battery to reset dme. It ran well cold at speed, had trouible idling after warm and then poorly after about 20 minutes and then CEL's; P1324, P1539 ( cam shaft allocation), and MAF code( can't remember code). unplug battery and reset dme, and runs well again for about 20 minutes.

I still thank the bank 2 cam sensor and or wire my be at fualt. The mechanical bank 2 timing and cam allocation IS NOToff !

Some thoughts after re-reading many other posts on Renn tech and list:

I think my injectors are undersized for the 3.6 liters.

The coil heat shields were missiing from the car when I purchased with Intermix. Can this cook my coils and cause missfires ?

I did not put adhesive on the lower portions of the aluminum intake manifolds when I assembled and may have an intake leak (Must you do this?)

the bank 2 cam sensor wire was broken in two locations; at the plug and in the harness so I soldered all three wires in 2 locations. I am concerned about the signal "delay" and/or the increased resistance going through all of that solder. going to replace with a new plug end and re-attach carefully. Where can I find a 3 prong cam sensor plug?

Comments and ideas about the MAF and dme reset results and how it ran as well as my thoughts above are appreciated.

thanks,

Phillip

[phil53chevy]

Additionally , i will ohm my bank 1 and 2 cylinoid. and apply 12 volts and see what happens.

[logray]

I think my injectors are undersized for the 3.6 liters.

The coil heat shields were missiing from the car when I purchased with Intermix. Can this cook my coils and cause missfires ?

I did not put adhesive on the lower portions of the aluminum intake manifolds when I assembled and may have an intake leak (Must you do this?)

the bank 2 cam sensor wire was broken in two locations; at the plug and in the harness so I soldered all three wires in 2 locations. I am concerned about the signal "delay" and/or the increased resistance going through all of that solder. going to replace with a new plug end and re-attach carefully. Where can I find a 3 prong cam sensor plug?

Comments and ideas about the MAF and dme reset results and how it ran as well as my thoughts above are appreciated.

Did you get any misfires?

Injectors should be matched to cylinder size IMHO.

Coil shields missing would decrease heat to coils because they would have more air running over them, but expose them to the elements, example cold rain/wet conditions are more likely to crack/damage them more quickly than without shields.

For intake manifold, you are supposed to the use the gaskets and orings from the catalog, no sealant.

You can buy a two prong replacement connector here (for cam solenoid, knock sensor, etc), but I don't know about the three prongers:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-1-928-403-137-2-Way-Connector-Kit-/110458796554

if you can get me the P/N of the three prong connector (should be stamped on it) I might be able to find it for you.

If it runs fine then gets bad i would be curious what the FRA and TRA are after 20 miles, it sounds like you might have an intake air leak or other issue causing a fuel imbalance (an stuck open on one bank affecting mechanical timing affecting ignition timing might be a possible explanation). If an actuator is stuck, it's going to be one or two positions, either it's going to run terrible on idle or run terrible off idle (above variocam activation point). Also, the DME will not activate variocam if it senses a problem with engine timing.

However these are just guesses because that's what happens when you reset a DME. It uses the stock map until it gets data from lambda sensors/etc and starts correcting fuel to achieve stoichiometry (as best it can). It might be possible you have a actuator or solenoid problem in addition to an air leak (and or other issues). You can isolate coils by swapping them between banks and cylinders.

I would start by fixing the timing codes before ANY further troubleshooting.. as those could be throwing everything out of whack. Your next idea is a good one to start on that path. You should fix ALL of these issues before driving/running it more, your new engine must not be broken in until they are resolved and run as little as possible to fix them.

Additionally , i will ohm my bank 1 and 2 cylinoid. and apply 12 volts and see what happens.

[dcdrechsel]

Have you checked continuity from the sensor all the way back to the DME ?I would also take a look at the wire harness plugs(the big ones) probably wouldn't hurt to reseat them .On the surface the most likely candidate is a flaky connection that is causing the timing codes .I would think if the soldered connections were the culprit it would trigger the cel immediately .

[logray]

I agree, if the actuator/solenoid/dme/sensor/wiring are bad enough, it should throw right away.

Let's assume the wiring and sensor are good, and actuator/solenoid marginal, sometimes it won't throw a code immediately, only after it's seen it enough times or a certain number of conditions are met.

[dcdrechsel]

I think 1539 trips when the actuator is activated and nothing happens -which could be a flaky assembly( either valve or solenoid)also could be a bad wire .

1324 I don't get .It is for the condition that the exhaust cam is not in synch with intake cam .How can the engine run for 20 minutes and then discover this ?Seems more logical that the sensor is misreading .

[dcdrechsel]

one more thought on 1324 -if there were a partial activation it might read funny and trip 1324 ?

[phil53chevy]

one more thought on 1324 -if there were a partial activation it might read funny and trip 1324 ?

Checked ohms on both solenoids. 13.7 on bank 2 and 14.5 on bank 1. Within range. Both banks click when I apply 12 volts. I am starting to suspect bank 2 valve actiator is malfunctioning. Going to replaced. Yes idling like crap.

[phil53chevy]

I agree, if the actuator/solenoid/dme/sensor/wiring are bad enough, it should throw right away.

throws it right away

Let's assume the wiring and sensor are good, and actuator/solenoid marginal, sometimes it won't throw a code immediately, only after it's seen it enough times or a certain number of conditions are met.

[phil53chevy]

The code is thrown immediately

[dcdrechsel]

Since the code is immediate and idles badly -high probability the actuator is toast

[phil53chevy]

Since the code is immediate and idles badly -high probability the actuator is toast

OK EVERYONE. My wife solved the major missfire and idle problem. she has dealt with my hobby/sickness for almost 15 years. "start with the basics, she said" "Phillip , did you check the fuel filter ? Well err "of course honey " .....not !!!!!!!!!!!

So I install a new filter and all the missfires are gone, and no more hard CEls, runs and idles great, but as you all have deduced, P1324 and P1529 are still present and I am starting to agree, the actuator on bank 2 is probably toast. runs and idles better than it ever did. Pics of filter trash below, pretty sad. I will replace actuator and report back.

[logray]

HAH! Great story, thanks to your wife. great job, and good luck with the actuator swap, just take your time, triple check everything.

[dcdrechsel]

Humbling.........never thought of fuel filter .Good call by your wife .Good luck ,your on the home stretch .

[phil53chevy]

HAH! Great story, thanks to your wife. great job, and good luck with the actuator swap, just take your time, triple check everything.

10-4 on the triple check

[phil53chevy]

Ok, Doug Harness was kind enough to sell me a used variocam solenoid. In the mean time I pulled the engine and the bank 2 variocam and decided to check the variocam plunger as I had removed it during the rebuild to clean out all of the intermix goo. I HAD PUT THE PLUNGER IN UPDSIDE DOWN !!, concave up so it was stuck "on" at all time AS SOLENOID PIN COULD NOT REACH THE PLUNGER. I now have a spare ; )

Fixed that, rechecked timing and reinstalled engine and the P1539 and P1324 are gone.

Ran great for about 15 miles and now CEL and idling terribly.

Installed all new coils and checked plugs and now have all bank 1 missfires; P0301 P0302,P0303.

I looked engine over very carefully when it was out. No loose intake bolts or hoses, found nothing.

Going to check for vacuum leaks again and ???????

[logray]

Misfires on all cylinders in one bank could be variocam or valve train related. Spring, lifter, actuator, solenoid, timing, etc.

Wishful thinking, but maybe a clog in the fuel pipe for that bank, although since the connection for bank 2 goes through bank 1 first I would tend to think bank 2 would also be suffering.

Any other codes or just the misfires?

Edited January 7, 2013 by logray

[logray]

Also when was the last time you reset the ecu, maybe it learned some really bad habits for when you had major variocam issues in the other bank and the clogged fuel filter. Although... it should be fairly quick to learn values that are way off... maybe more wishful thinking.

[phil53chevy]

i wiill reset ecu and see what happens.

[dcdrechsel]

How old is the gasoline ?

[phil53chevy]

How old is the gasoline ?

New premium with techron . Really drinking the fuel. Sprayed carb cleaner around Bank 1 intake while running and rpm picked up. Misfires only bank 1. I am going to retighten the intake manifold. I used old injectors o rings when I rebuilt engine. Problem. ??.

[dcdrechsel]

Don't know about the injector orings .I thought they were a once and done .The fact that it's sucking up the carb cleaner sure points to a vacum leak .I guess with the straw on the carb cleaner you could get a more precise "shot" at probable areas ,

Once you get the problem identified might want to think about changing the oil .

Another question when did you put the techron in ?Before or after the fuel filter change ?It's possible some junk found it's way to the injectors -but it seems more likely it's a vacum leak .With a might vac it's pretty simple to test .Really only three major components -fuel pressure regulator-the air injection including the tank and the high speed flap in the plenum .

Doubtful but a boot on the plenum could also be a culprit .

MY guess is your ok withe the internals or you would probably see more codes .

The puzzle is why after 15 mintues -seems like something heats up and opens