TPMS inactive?

[the head]

I'm getting a message that states the TPMS is inactive on the dash and the red tire light comes on. This happened a couple of times and then there was one instance when the red tire light was off but going through the vehicle menu, the screen with the tire pressuresis gone. And you could not select tires as an option off the menu page. This morning I get in and the error light returned. I've had a sensor die and it's just a bad pressure reading, but I've never had the screen go away where I couldn't even look it up.

I need to hook up the Durametric, but was curious if anyone had this symptom before.

[mudman2]

I get that error with my winter wheels which have pre 08 sensors (wrong frequency) sounds like a bad sensor to me

[the head]

Oddly enough this morning it worked fine on my initial trip. After I stopped and got back in, the message came back on again but at least this time the screen on the dash menu came up, even if it was reading all -- for the pressure values.

[the head]

Getting a suspension workshop on the screen when it's running the starter now. Put the scangauge on it and the voltage is about 11.5 volts with the key on, engine off and drops down to about 8.5v when the starter is turning over. Picks up to 13.6v when running. Thinking battery now since I've owned it for about 4 years now, bought CPO, and it's on the same battery as when I bought it.

[mudman2]

Getting a suspension workshop on the screen when it's running the starter now. Put the scangauge on it and the voltage is about 11.5 volts with the key on, engine off and drops down to about 8.5v when the starter is turning over. Picks up to 13.6v when running. Thinking battery now since I've owned it for about 4 years now, bought CPO, and it's on the same battery as when I bought it.

Sounds like a good idea, these do weird things when the battery starts to go

[JFP in PA]

Getting a suspension workshop on the screen when it's running the starter now. Put the scangauge on it and the voltage is about 11.5 volts with the key on, engine off and drops down to about 8.5v when the starter is turning over. Picks up to 13.6v when running. Thinking battery now since I've owned it for about 4 years now, bought CPO, and it's on the same battery as when I bought it.

The best way to test a battery's condition is to run a load test, some parts stores now will even do this for free in expectation of selling you a battery. The test requires a special testing tool, but only takes about 15 seconds to run and is a "go/no go" style test so there is no need for interpretation of the results.

[the head]

Well drug it out until now and after replacing the battery all is good. Today I actually got a check engine light and found a couple of other faults that I knew weren't legitimate. Cleared with the Durametric, then installed the battery. One surprise was the fact I had to re-calibrate the steering angle sensor (778 message) after the install and found that on another thread. Went with an Autozone Gold battery in case anyone was wondering. It is a little shorter than the stock battery so I used some foam packing laying around to make up the 1.5" or so in the battery case. The main holder bracket works just fine.

[odix]

Thanks for the update. Glad it worked out and good battery tip as well.

[the head]

I should add the power windows for the one-touch "up" function also has to be reset, which is in the owner's manual. But one check engine light was legitimate, P0492. As it turns out the secondary air injection pump impeller came apart. I posted an update on another thread for that carnage. But all the other codes and messages I was having were related to the battery so I feel that's still a great indicator that the battery needs to be replaced.