Alternator/Battery Cable bad?

[sullivas]

I wanted to check the main power cable in my '05 because I know there was an issue

with the crimping of the cable.

With the car hot after a run I turned on the high beams and blower on full and tested voltages,

I had 13.3V at the battery and 13.6 at the alternator.

Does this indicate a defective cable or is it normal to have a drop in voltage of .3 volts.

Thanks

[JFP in PA]

You need to first correctly test the cable. What you need to do is disconnect both ends of the cable and check it for resistance over its lenght, if you find any, replace the cable.

Edited October 13, 2012 by JFP in PA

[sullivas]

You need to first correctly test the cable. What you need to do is disconnect both ends of the cable and check it for resistance over its lenght, if you find any, replace the cable.

What if I left the cable connected and checked resistance? Or, remove the cable at the battery and leave the alt cable connected while getting a reading?

Is there a way to disconnect the cable from the alt without removing the alt or anything else?

[JFP in PA]

You can test it while it is connected to the alternator but disconnected at the battery, but it may be a bit of a pain to get at it while it remains connected (also depends somewhat on what the ends of the multi meter test cables look like).

[wvicary]

There is a junction point under the vehicle on the right side near the engine thats prone to corrosion and can cause a voltage drop.

[sullivas]

There is a junction point under the vehicle on the right side near the engine thats prone to corrosion and can cause a voltage drop.

Is that the location of the "faulty crimp" done by the factory?

And by right side you mean passenger side?

Edited October 17, 2012 by sullivas

[AP 997S]

If your 2005 997 cranks weakly and even weaker when hot then it's most likely the alternator cable.

I replaced mine w/ the 'improved' cable a few months back and now it cranks w/ gusto!